| Author | Message | ||
     Pkforbes87 |
I rode the 02 X1 to work today instead of the Uly, and the rear brake siezed when pulling up to the gate on base. I limped it into a parking lot but the brakes are siezed hard enough that I couldn't push the bike backwards into a parking spot without help. Right now my plan is to drain the whole rear brake system before I ride home from work. Hopefully the caliper will release when the fluid is drained. Guess I'll get a caliper rebuild kit from American Sport Bike. I'll need to take a closer look at the master cylinder to figure out if it can be rebuilt or just needs replaced. Anyone else dealt with similar issues? The rear brake has always sucked on both my X1's but I at least want to get it back to functional. Btw, the port side piston in the rear caliper is extended a lot, but the starboard side piston isn't showing at all. Dunno if that's normal or not.. Pads are pretty well worn back there so that may be why the pistons look a bit off. | ||
| Easy_rider |
I wouldn't be surprised if one side hasn't been sticky for a while, and the other side has pushed out so far that it jammed. Consider using a C-clamp to compress things down after the fluid pressure is released. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
Pushed all the fluid out for now and it released. After I pulled the bleeder bolt out, it took a bit of pressure on the pedal before something broke loose in the system and I got a foiuntain of fluid. The pedal feels better now though than it ever has, so I may get away with cleaning up the caliper and pistons, flushing the lines real well and just going with new fluid. For quite a while, the pedal has never wanted to spring back up once pressed but I got used to not using the rear brake so never messed with working on it. (Stupid on my part) I'm looking forward to seeing how it works after a good cleaning and fresh fluid. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
My rear started to drag and then wouldn't release. It ended up being the frame paint behind the peg/pedal pivot was getting chewed up and jamming the pedal. Repair was cleaning off the paint with a file where the pivot moved. Sometimes the cause and solution are simple. Doing the same to the shifter side freed up the shifting nicely too. | ||
| Kalali |
Upgrade the pads to Ferodo HH while you have things apart. Significantly better than stock IMO. | ||
| Skntpig |
I think the not returning issue is that your footpeg is too tight. Use plenty of blue loctite and reinstall. Tighten until it doesn't return and just back it off a bit where it does. I bet you can get away with a clean and reassemble with new pads. | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
I disagree, you should be able to tighten the footpeg to spec, there is a shoulder that it snugs against. If it is not returning then there is a problem with the bushing or the brake cylinder. If it is the bushing, get the bronze oil lite bushing from Al and be done with it! Bronze Oil Lite Bushings | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
"I disagree, you should be able to tighten the footpeg to spec, there is a shoulder that it snugs against." +1. The paint gets rough there and it actually closes in on the pivot. The stock plastic bushings are fine if you grease them first. Mine last about 8,000 before they get sloppy. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
Its not the peg although that has been the issue before - I backed it off and applied blue loctite. This time the pedal started springing back as soon as I cleared whatever type of blockage was in the system. Right now the pedal moves freely and springs back properly with no fluid in the system. I don't have the proper brake fluid right now, and am leaving today for an out of state trip on the XT. Ill take care of Betty once I get back into town. | ||
| Skntpig |
I don't know. I have the bronze bushings and have this problem. What is the spec for the footpegs? I can only get an open end wrench behind there due to the ISO being in the way. Maybe I have another issue...Suggestions? Do I need to sand the bushings and give them more clearance? I left a mc dry for a few months and the seals went bad, your trip probably isn't that long. | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
Do I need to sand the bushings and give them more clearance? If you have determined that this is where it is definitely binding, then yes - sand it down a little at a time until it works properly. Al throws a few different thickness shims in the kit, but I had to make a thicker shim for my shifter side. The brake side fits perfect! | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
Its not the peg although that has been the issue before - I backed it off and applied blue loctite. This time the pedal started springing back as soon as I cleared whatever type of blockage was in the system. Right now the pedal moves freely and springs back properly with no fluid in the system. I would be afraid of snapping the footpeg off running it that way. I do recall reading posts here of that happening, though I do not know if it was because they were run "loose". If draining the brake fluid released the brakes as soon as the pressure was relieved then you have a problem with the brake cylinder. You may of had moisture in it that caused corrosion, or the foot pedal is hanging up. | ||
| Koz5150 |
I am currently battling this issue of the rear caliper freezing up on my M2 after driving on the freeway. I got home and it was smoking hot, literly. I got some advice that it may be due to air in the line. As a temp. fix I cracked open the bleeder a bit to let the pressure release if it builds up but I am going to rebuild and re bleed the whole thing this winter. | ||
| Fullauto |
Single piston calipers with this problem are usually due to corrosion/lack of lube on the sliding pin. Horrible things. |
