Author |
Message |
Monkey_man
| Posted on Friday, November 13, 2009 - 08:50 pm: |
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Owners manual has no instructions. When I asked the HD mechanic he said, "it's a real pain don't bother". Winter is coming so I want to move battery indoors but looks like I need to remove the fuse block and red plastic guard. Gave up and thought I'd ask for pictures/help. Thanks in advance. |
Buzzie
| Posted on Friday, November 13, 2009 - 08:59 pm: |
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you have to move the rear brake master cylinder and main circuit breaker out of the way ...and if i remember correctly you have to move the fuse block... It comes out the seat area. |
Socalmoe
| Posted on Friday, November 13, 2009 - 09:05 pm: |
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Why not a battery tender? |
Rocketsprink
| Posted on Friday, November 13, 2009 - 09:08 pm: |
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take the rear bodywork off. take off the cover for the fuse box and slide it out to the left. I've done it a few times, no problem |
Monkey_man
| Posted on Friday, November 13, 2009 - 09:19 pm: |
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Wow, sounds like a pain. Battery tender is plan B but got several batteries for my bikes and friends bikes. Does the rear bodywork require a pile of T-30 screws be removed? Any pictures, Rocketsprink? Thanks so much, Monkey_man |
Kevin_stevens
| Posted on Friday, November 13, 2009 - 09:38 pm: |
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Rear bodywork is five screws. Two upper front, two lower front, one center top. Remove screws, spread front arms, pull. KeS |
Aj2010
| Posted on Saturday, November 14, 2009 - 09:23 am: |
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I just took mine out. Had to remove the bolt between the front and rear seat, the rear master cyl reservoir, starter solenoid and one fuse block. Make sure you cover the battery terminals with something non-conductive so they don't short (on sub-frame) on the way out ) |
Chadhargis
| Posted on Saturday, November 14, 2009 - 12:08 pm: |
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I removed mine. You have to remove the rear plastic and you can get right to it. |
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