| Author | Message | ||
     Scottorious |
where do i drain and add primary fluid on an x1?...the search board isnt working right now....im still waiting on my owners manual and service manual... | ||
| Blks1l |
You drain the primary fluid from a plug under the engine, some mufflers require removal to get access to the plug, you add fluid in the round cap on the primary cover. | ||
| Scottorious |
how much goes back in? | ||
| Jramsey |
28 0z. | ||
| Scottorious |
the bolt that looks like the plug does not come out, it looks like a threaded rod with an allen head on it but then there is a nut on that?...i can get the nut off but the threaded rod wont come out.... | ||
| Kyrocket |
That's for adjusting the tension on your primary chain, it's just behind that, closer to the rear of your bike. | ||
| Kyrocket |
I couldn't post the pic but if you go here: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://i25. photobucket.com/albums/c97/cjburr/1250conversion00 4-5.jpg&imgrefurl=http://xlforum.net/vbportal/foru ms/showthread.php%3Ft%3D10084%26page%3D17&usg=__HZ RMIyhQKtsdVAL72Md73aKWrlA=&h=600&w=800&sz=278&hl=e n&start=24&um=1&tbnid=oxafci7NTcZebM:&tbnh=107&tbn w=143&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dbuell%2Bprimary%2Bchain%2 Badjustment%26ndsp%3D20%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26r lz%3D1T4ADBF_enUS231US231%26sa%3DN%26start%3D20%26 um%3D1 about 3/4 of the way down the page you'll see a picture of the bolt you are looking for. Hope this helps. | ||
| Scottorious |
oh ok....so then how do i make sure i put my primary chain tension back at corret tension...and then also...this is making me sound dumb but where the heck is the engine oil drain? | ||
| Kalali |
The engine oil drain is a hose that starts from under the side of the oil tank and bends down right next to the frame right by the rear brake caliper. Unfortunately you probably screwed up the chain tension and tripled the amount of your work! If I were you, I would keep my hands off the bike until I get either some help or proper documentation. | ||
| Jramsey |
A quick way to get the primary chain tension close is to back the jam nut on the adjuster off far enough to screw the adjuster screw in till you feel resistance then while holding the adjuster screw run the jam nut up till it touches the case, now back the adjuster screw and jam nut out till there is 1/8" clearance between the jam nut and the case, now hold the adjuster screw and run the jamb nut up tight. Remove the round inspection cover and check the freeplay, it should be very close to a 1/2". (Message edited by Jramsey on September 24, 2009) | ||
| Sportyeric |
Check the freeplay at the inspection hole. I hold a half-inch wrench at the hole and lift the chain with a small allen wrench to check. Bump the engine to check at a few different spots to make sure you're getting it at the tightest point on the chain. (I usually take out the plugs, put it in fourth gear and move it that way to keep track of how much it has moved.) Mind you don't change the reading when you tighten the lock-nut. | ||
| Mmmi_grad |
buy a little pump and pump out the old fluid. | ||
| Kalali |
I meant to ask about the "pump" approach. That should save a good bit of time since the muffler will not be touched. Is it a good way to go? Would you be able to get all the crud (if any) out this way? | ||
| Kyrocket |
No. That, to me, sounds like a bad idea. If you have anything in the bottom it won't get drained out and with everything in there it would be hard to get a hose to the bottom to even get all the fluid. I've known of owners marking their exhaust with a marker, removing it, and making a small indention with a hammer for future fluid changing ease. | ||
| Kalali |
Thanks. I fully agree. I think the dent just needs to be deep enough to allow room for the drain plug to unscrew out. | ||
| Mmmi_grad |
If its a hole in the bottom or a hole in a tube sitting above the drain hole you are going to get 99% of the crap out. The only thing you dont get to do is wipe the magnet clean. BOOHOO Look around, there are several pump made for this exact purpose. Or you can waste your time, its up to you. | ||
| Sloppy |
Quote from my instructor, "Bela", from decades ago, said in a thick German accent - "No Mickey Mouse!" If you're going to do a job then do it right. Remove the plug. For the amount of time you need to find your pump and hose you'd already have the muffler removed! And get the FSM! | ||
| Standingdeadwood |
I use a suction gun from the local auto parts store to suck out the fluid. I empty the suction gun into an old quart Syn3 bottle. You can see if you got out what you put in, unless your loosing fluid between changes. The tube of the suction gun can be squeezed past the bottom of the clutch pack to get all of the way to the bottom of the primary. I did have to replace the primary gasket last year and the primary was free of debris when I opened it up, so I am confident in the suction method instead of removing the muffler and draining the fluid. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
"Check the freeplay at the inspection hole. I hold a half-inch wrench at the hole and lift the chain with a small allen wrench to check." ^^^ Exactly the way I adjust mine. Make sure you refer to your service manual for this - there are different tolerances for hot and cold. If you decide to dent your muffler, consider taking your primary drain plug to a hose supply store (Midwest Hose for me here in Oklahoma) and have them find you a pipe fitting with the same threads. With a dent in your exhaust, you could use a 90* pipe fitting coming out of the primary, then attach a short length of rubber hose with a plug in the end of it similar to the oil tank drain hose. Next time you need to drain the primary - pull the plug instead of messing around under the engine with no space to work with next to the muffler. Just an idea.. | ||
| Kalali |
Phil, great idea for the drain plug. Necessity is mother of invention... | ||
| Cyclone00 |
Is there a time or milage when the fluid should be changed? I had a primary gasket leak. The dealer replaced it, put new fluid in it and the tranny worked quite a bit better then before. Getting it into Neutral was a huge improvement and the bike shifter a bit smoother the before. Thoughts on why?? | ||
| 14d |
Read on here several times that FSM is wrong about chain tension and that it should be closer to 3/4" rather than 1/2". I believe buellistic wrote an article on this (among many other things). When I was running mine at 1/2" it started chewing up the the tensioner a bit, now I run it about 3/4" with no problems. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I think the recommended interval is 10,000 miles but I always change it when I change the oil. Why not? I'm already on the ground with dirty hands, right? | ||
| Cobraman |
I change my primary oil every other oil change. The mileage typically works out to about every 5k miles. I think thats what is listed in the FSM to, at least for an X1. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Read on here several times that FSM is wrong about chain tension and that it should be closer to 3/4" rather than 1/2". I believe buellistic wrote an article on this (among many other things). When I was running mine at 1/2" it started chewing up the the tensioner a bit, now I run it about 3/4" with no problems. Buellistic is a big proponent of that, and I'm sure it won't hurt anything, but my S3 would rattle your fillings out of your teeth with the chain adjusted with that much slack. I've never had any problems on my S3 or Uly with adjusting the primary by the book. |
