| Author | Message | ||
     Xbimmer |
Well my shifting has been a little weird lately especially finding neutral so I decided to do a complete clutch adjustment which I haven't done in awhile. Found out that despite my lever boot mod the cable lost some strands at the end, I guess 40K is long enough for a cable. While replacing the cable per procedure I removed the front tiebar, found that the joint at the W-bracket was rattly. I mean when I shook it it rattled audibly and I can grab the sleeve and move the bushing around. Could this explain the newer noticeable vibration around 4K? Is this common? 60K on an '06 by the way. | ||
| Etennuly |
You may want to check the rest of them. Heim joints do wear out, they should pivot around with no slop, much like a bearing. Every time I change my oil, I put some of the used stuff in a pump type oil can and give all of those moving parts a little shot. I also run some down the clutch cable and make sure to get some on the cable at the clutch lever, that is where mine broke off at 5000 miles. It was dry as a bone. I need to get some in my throttle cables too. The Mobil 1 is no problem for winter time use in these locations. | ||
| Rays |
Xbimmer, I recently replaced my clutch cable - I didn't catch the weird shifting in time and popped the cable on the way home from work (at night, in the rain ....)  Anyway, I found exactly the same thing with the front tie-bar. The end that connects to the frame bracket was rattling and I measured .008" play with a dial-guauge. I ordered a new one and replaced it last week-end and I am sure it has reduced vibration. My '06 has 53K miles so not quite as much as you and two instances don't make a common problem but I think anyone with higher mileage should check this. | ||
| Rotorhead |
I have the same thing happening to mine. (53,000 miles) I figured the vibes/shifts were the primary needing adjusting and did the clutch also. Come to find out I have the front rod having play on both sides. I have never lubed them do to the fact they have a teflon race. for as cheap as they are I figure 50,000 is plenty to ask for them to work properly. Also I have had to replace the front isolator a while back. Both easy things to replace on your own. Maybe that is the "critical fasteners" the manual talks about in the scheduled maintenance but doesn't really say what they are. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Thanks, so it seems they're expendable though at $25 each I wouldn't say cheap. Kind of a shame to toss the aluminum casting because of a worn plastic bushing, I wonder whether they can be rebushed with silicon-bronze or something, or even the original material? | ||
| Pso |
Rotorhead, how tight were the bolts in your front isolator? I have the forks off the bike now (leaking left seal), and have the new isolator and plan on doing it tonight. | ||
| Rotorhead |
They are in pretty good. The right tool like a socket adapter and a 1/2 ratchet will do even with the bike on a jack. The one into the frame was the bitch to get to break loose. make sure you have some kind of anitiseize on the new bolt to the frame. | ||
| Pso |
Rotorhead-thanks. Seems like I use lots of antiseize on this Uly. | ||
| Etennuly |
I just installed a new front isolator on mine. This is my fourth one, now at 41,000 miles. All three of the bolts torque to 50 ft lbs. That vertical one in the frame is tough to remove the first time. The anti-sieze makes it easy after that. If you don't have the correct allen head a 55 torx fits and works properly. Do you guys have pictures of how the rubber part of the isolator sits in conjunction to the mounting bolt? I took some of mine that I will post later. Mine looks like the engine side of the mount is 'up' to the max, but it has always been like that with each new application. It also sits like that when the mount is bad. |
