| Author |
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Jraice
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 19, 2009 - 05:18 pm: | 
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Ahhhh I see...
Makes sense.
Well Ill talk to the techs sometime soon and see what they think and let you all know. |
Jraice
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 19, 2009 - 06:27 pm: |
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Help me understand how the intake valve seal leak is causing oil consumption guys...
Assuming the rings were good to begin with, only the slight film left after the rings scrape the cylinder should remain. How can the oil get to the valves after this intake vacuum? If it was that simple, then every time the exhaust valves opened all the oil would go shooting out.
(Message edited by jraice on August 19, 2009) |
Sloppy
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 19, 2009 - 06:59 pm: |
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There is oil that is cooling and lubricating the valve springs above the valve. The valve has a stem that runs through the seal in the head and is held in place in the spring through "locks". The valve seal prevents excess oil around the valve springs from leaking down the intake valve stem and into the intake air.
As for breaking in - make it easy on yourself and follow the manual. It works! Easy riding, let the bike cool, replace engine oil frequently. The main reason to use conventional oil is because you will be draining it frequently. Also make sure you replace the oil filter!
Next time you're at the dealer get the Factory Service Manual! The BEST tool to have if you want your bike to last... |
Jraice
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 19, 2009 - 07:39 pm: |
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I have the Service manual.
And it recommends changing oil at 1000 miles, not 50/100/250 like a lot of people do. |
Pogue_mahone
| | Posted on Thursday, August 20, 2009 - 08:45 am: |
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dino oil is always best for break in.follow the instructions of the people who build it and not so much people's ideas of how to break in your engine and seat your rings.the ones who make it know their engines and have been making them a long time.and they have to stand behind them too with warranty and their good name. |
Saratoga
| | Posted on Thursday, August 20, 2009 - 09:11 am: |
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Bad intake valve guides (seals) make the engine burn oil because:
1. Your engine is throttled... there is a throttle plate which restricts the amount of air that can be drawn into the cylinder on the intake stroke. At idle and during deceleration, the throttle is closed. The intake valve opens during the intake stroke but because of the throttle being closed, the piston draws a negative pressure (vacuum) in the cylinder and intake runners.
2. The intake valves run through the intake port into the rocker box portion of the cylinder head. There is vacuum on the intake side and theoretically atmospheric pressure in the top end of the cylinder head (rocker box). This pressure difference caused by the engine running as described above sucks the crankcase oil from the top of the cylinder head and around the valve spring past the leaking valve stem seal (valve guide) and into the intake port around the valve stem. The oil enters the combustion chamber and gets burned. You would generally see a puff of smoke when taking off from a stop and while coasting when this happens. Think of a POS car you've been behind at a light... if you see a puff of white-blue smoke when it takes off and then it clears up once moving, that is generally the result of leaking valve guides.
Leaking valve guides on your bike I could see, but worn rings on a brand new production engine are still hard to believe.
(Message edited by saratoga on August 20, 2009) |
Brumbear
| | Posted on Thursday, August 20, 2009 - 02:17 pm: |
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If the leak down is showing 16 percent then you probably have a bad vavle seat especially if your not getting alot of smoke if it were rings I am confident the leak down would be much more and your plugs would show oil burning and your exhaust would belch blue smoke the hotter it gets the more oil will burn. I get more oil loss with synthetic why I do not know but perhaps the heat generated by the air cooled engine breaks the synthetics down faster but I have no power loss and I have not had a blow by issue or smoke so I just add as needed but thats me. |
Jraice
| | Posted on Friday, August 21, 2009 - 11:54 am: |
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Thanks for all the info guys.
Got the call yesterday that the bike is finished and being cleaned up. I wont be able to get it till Tuesday but Ill let you all know then how things work out.
They replaced rings and seals, honed cylinder's and cleaned all the misc. parts in the engine that had carbon etc... on them. |
Lastbornjoker
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 25, 2009 - 10:18 am: |
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bump. today is tuesday and i was wondering?how is it? |
Jraice
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 25, 2009 - 05:48 pm: |
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Picking the bike up in 2 hours.
Probably just going to ride home on city streets (not as good as a twisty road but better then the highway for break in), then I am heading back out to Santa Cruz (tight twisty roads, perfect for break in) to try on/buy a leather one piece suit  . Then back home.
Tomorrow night I have my weekly group ride usually 100-150 miles so after that I should have opened it up enough to notice any differences in power etc... as well as see how its doing with the oil consumption. |
Jraice
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 26, 2009 - 12:37 am: |
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Put almost 100 miles on the bike.
Run's fine, not that it didnt before (just burned oil).
Checked oil when I got it home and it was WAY overfilled, only thing that bothered me. Ill have to check the airbox later...
Funny how uncomfortable I felt on the bike after a week or two of not riding! I had zero confidence in the twisties...
Just bought my first 1 piece tonight, going riding more tomorrow, will update with any changes and the status of how much oil it burns.
By the way, its hard to break a bike in thats not a brand new bike. Had to take freeway home, moved rev's around as much as I could. Then road the twisties a bit and found myself using as much gas as I normally would, even once or twice going WOT  . Well, atleast I know it'll be well broken in. |
Jeffroj
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 26, 2009 - 10:07 am: |
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Can't remember if someone posted this on here, or I seen it somewhere else.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I'm not saying that I believe this works. |
Jraice
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 26, 2009 - 06:35 pm: |
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I have seen that as well.
I am doing it a bit harder probably then when I bought it new, but it ran great even with leaking vavles etc... and bad rings (just burned oil) so I am not to worried, engines pretty tough.
I am just riding it normally, minus the WOT redline 1st - 3rd gear type runs. I am using heavy throttle occasionally, I think I got up to 6,000rpm yesterday, on accident though, Im trying to stay in the sweet spot of 3,000 to 5,000.
Riding 150-200 miles tonight on a group ride. Then probably wont ride until the weekend, but I am doing a 400 mile day ride (going to be nuts!) to Yosemite National Park so it will be broken in my Saturday.
Then Ill order some oil, put on a few more miles to get me close to 1000 and switch back to Amsoil.
On another note, no oil burning so far! Tonights ride would normally require 100-200ml's be added so it will be nice to see if it stays on the dipstick . |
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