| Author | Message | ||
     1324 |
Long story short: I removed some badging on the flyscreen and there was quite a bit of gunk that no solvents would remove. I decided to wet sand, which worked out OK. I've gone up to 1500 wet and used a series of compounds and polishes so far and things are improved. However, I still have a light haze that gives the part an overall matte look. I need to get this back to factory gloss. I've done the following: 1. wet sanded up to 1500 2. 3M compound (advertised to remove 1500 and finer scratches. It is good, I use it all the time on my cars). 3. HD swirl and scratch remover (eh...) 4. Plasti-X, or whatever its called. Made by Maguires. 5. 3M cleaner wax. It is about 90-95% where it needs to be but it definitely isn't as glossy as the rest of the bike and as a result, the red looks a little pinker by comparison. I've heard good things about Novus (I have their cleaner, but not their compound), but feel that might be stepping it back in the wrong direction. What do you recommend to get the shine back? (Message edited by 1324 on August 12, 2009) | ||
| Jomartijr |
I'm presently faced with the same problem but in my case I'm trying to remove a few scratches and I've made a minor problem into a major project. Just a few scratches on my new-to-me 2007 Uly but I had to have it like new so dove in. Lots of work and I'm close to figuring out the process. My tank cover is done however, and what worked for me was 1500 wet or dry sandpaper, 4000 grit, 8000 grit then followed those with a buffer, and some polish made by Raceglaze. I used the paintleveling compound first with the wool pad and finished up with their Raceglaze using a white foam pad. All lots of work for a few scratches. The finer grits I found at a company, Micromesh Inc. Some observations- I worked with acrylics for years and found it relatively easy to work with. But the polycarbonate-like material used on the Buell plastics is tough and a little "gummy" and so doesn't lend itself to easy sratch removal. (Message edited by jomartijr on August 12, 2009) | ||
| 1324 |
Have you tried the Novus #2? I know Buell recommends this stuff, but I'm not sure if it will haze or not. According to their website, this is designed to remove the haze... | ||
| Dmhines |
Plastic polish and a buffing wheel on a bench grinder will get it looking new ... Doing it by hand ain't gonna work ... | ||
| 1324 |
I've read recommendations on a string wheel because they don't heat up like a regular buffing wheel. I'll have to see what I can find. I'd rather use a drill with the attachment for now... | ||
| Bitbear |
Actually, my experience is that a buffing wheel and the usual buffing compounds do not work very well on Buell plastics. If scratches are not deep the best is Novus No.2 it really works. Finish it off with Novus No. 1, then add your favorite wax/polish. The Buell plastics are indeed, kinda "rubbery," even the finest sandpaper will leave the finish difficult to restore to true shine. Try the Novus! | ||
| Bitbear |
PS... Goop Remover and similar products will remove virtually any adhesive from Buell plastics without damage. | ||
| Firebolt32 |
LINE-X! | ||
| 1324 |
I'll pick up some Novus 2 tonight. I tried a couple places last night, but to no avail. I'll stop by the dealer today. I picked up one of those overpriced Mothers Powerballs and gave it a go with the same compounds and waxes I used the night before. Big difference with the right speed. There are still a few errant scratches and haziness from the wet sanding, so I'm hoping the Novus does the trick. I'd say I'm at about 95-98% of where I want to be. Close but not perfect. And for the record, yeah, I'm not sure what was underneath that decal. It was red and hard like a resin. I tried everything I had in my arsenal of cleaners and nothing worked. Sanding was it. I've removed so many badges off of cars, trucks, and motorcycles over the years that I've lost count. This was the first time something like Goo Gone didn't work. Oh well. There were a couple small scratches anyway... | ||
| Reepicheep |
The novus instructions talk about Novus 3 like it's some sort of nuclear option, but that hasn't been my experience, and I always seem to have to start with that (followed by the Novus 2) to make much progress. For what that's worth... | ||
| 1324 |
Good to know. Based on their website, I wasn't even going to try it. If the dealer has some, I'll pick it up and give it a shot. I've already spent this much time on it, may as well go all the way. I like to think of it as systematic Lightning lightening. | ||
| 1324 |
I've officially give up. Yep, done. I bought Novus #2 and #3 yesterday and gave it a try. Looked good in the garage, especially after I applied some glaze. Wheel it outside in the sun, however, and the differences are clear as day. The color is a duller red (not as bright), and the deep gloss just isn't there. Still have the haze despite trying everything I own (plast-x, swirl and scratch remover, mag polish, etc.). Even my wife noticed the difference! I think I'll just order a new one and use this for the track with my numbers on it... | ||
| Jomartijr |
Buell plastics renewal really can be done but it takes some polishing tools and compounds most don't have around the garage plus a dedicated machine buffing effort to keep at it until all scratches are removed. If you get to the slight hazy appearance you're part way- there just have to go with a finer polish, higher pad speed or maybe both. Avoid getting the surface too hot however as this tends to re-dull the surface. You won't get the out-of-the-mold hard gloss but an attractive no haze, softer sheen which I really prefer. I have no special interest in nor do I sell for Micromesh Inc. but they have a page on their website which tells how to renew polycarbonate which is similar to the Buell plastics and they have been helpful in this project. For minor scratch removal start with their #5 polish and a wool pad. When the scratches are gone and you see a slight polish swirl pattern then change off to their regular polish and a foam pad. I then used the Raceglaze products to put a final gloss on which turned out pretty nice. | ||
| Dmhines |
Might not be obvious ... but if polishing by hand make sure you use a microfiber cloth ... not a paper towel. Paper towel will just scratch it more. I use a Microfiber towel and Plastic polish and my Translucent Orange comes out really nice and glossy. (Message edited by dmhines on August 14, 2009) | ||
| Avc8130 |
Why not just do the same treatment to the rest of the bike? Then there will be no "difference" to notice!  ac | ||
| Zatco81 |
If it's hazy have you tried a good coat of wax? May take it that other 2% | ||
| Vortec57 |
Plexus anyone? that stuff makes sandpaper shine. I used some stuff i got at the paint shop when I polished out my XB, did it in stages, but the final shine came from "Wizzard" brand plastic shine and my buffer. | ||
| Xl_cheese |
Use a microfiber cloth and some of this stuff to get the last 10% shine back. I"ve used this on a few different buells and it makes it really glossy. It will also remove fine scratches and scuffs. This stuff also works wonders on your car. I'm a dork when it comes to keeping my truck waxed and shiny. Apply this and then wax it and it will really bring out the shine. And if you really have time use a clay bar first.  (Message edited by xl_cheese on August 14, 2009) | ||
| Buelltastic |
I have found the mothers powerball mini, comes with an extension shaft, to be very effective on the end of a drill with all the polishes I have used, not just the one that is "specifically" formulated for the power ball. Just keep it plenty most, the grit fine, and the RPM high. Just my 2cents. | ||
| 1324 |
I used a Mother's powerball and some microfiber cloths... Don't get me wrong, there is a really nice gloss, especially after using the glaze. It's just that there isn't that deep gloss look that the factory finish has. I could make everything else match, but it's really not worth my time. Lot of work polishing this stuff up. At this point, I could have bought a new screen with what I have into supplies... | ||
| Petebueller |
I flipped my bike straight over the front brake a couple of years ago This was the damage  I cleaned it up much the same as you with sanding and cutting compound, and it left the haze you're talking about.  I used NOVUS 1, washed it and it cleaned up back to the original gloss black. This is a later pic that shows the haze has gone.  You probably want NOVUS 1 rather than 2. 2 is for scratches and you've done that and want to clean it. |
