| Author | Message | ||
     Preybird1 |
Hey guys do any of you guys have pictures of safety wired header bolts. I would like to wire mine up and i am looking for an easy and correct way to do this! | ||
| Cyclonemick |
No Safety wire on mine but since I double nutted them, Not a problem in over 40k! | ||
| Skntpig |
http://www.emra.ca/Tech%20Tips/Tech%20Tips.htm I will probably safety wire mine soon too but for now they have held with a simple lock washer under the nut. | ||
| Skntpig |
The thing to remember when safety wiring is to think about the wire holding the bolt tight so it can't turn itself out. There is a wrong side and the right side to put the wire. The bottom diagram on the link above shows what I mean. | ||
| Preybird1 |
Skntpig Thanks for the link that was very informative. | ||
| Bhillberg |
The other thing to remember is that when safety wire vibrates, it can cut into whatever it is resting against. I would highly suggest NOT to safety the nuts to each other as you will be going across your header. When I safetied mine I drilled holes in the flange that the retaining rings sit in. One hole on top, one on bottom. Then safety the nut so that the wire is "pulling" it in a clockwise direction. I say "pulling" because you are NOT actually pulling it tight. You don't want you wire too tight. Just enough so that if the nut/ bolt whatever you are safetying starts to back out then the wire stops it. If you go too tight vibration will cause it to snap. Don't have any pics of mine right now, but I could take some when I get home tonight and post them. Won't be home till midnight though. (Message edited by bhillberg on July 29, 2009) | ||
| Bhillberg |
After looking at that link the other thing I would suggest, drill more than one hole in the nut before you put it on as you don't really know where it will line up once installed. If you drilled the wrong corner then you would have to wrap the safety wire all the way around. Better idea is to find some AN (aircraft) nuts that fit. They will be pre drilled all the way around for the safety wire. I could look at the ones I used and give you the correct part number. They worked like a charm. The part number on the nuts I used are either MS9201-04 (I believe they were) Or MS9201-02. I think they were the 04's. Again would have to wait till I got home to say for sure. I am trying to research the stud size and the nut size though to figure it out while at work. (Message edited by bhillberg on July 29, 2009) | ||
| Preybird1 |
Part numbers would be cool, Thanks for the help! | ||
| Buellistic |
Have a 108K plus miles on my 1997 S3T and have never had any exhaust header problems ... If you do not use GASKET,exhaust PN 17048-98, YOU WILL !!! | ||
| Preybird1 |
I just had my driver go and pick up 2 of those gaskets buellistic, And i will be doing them tonight. | ||
| Blks1l |
Being an aircraft mechanic I can tell you most aircraft hardware is fine thread. They do sell jigs that make drilling safety wire holes in nuts and bolts easier then just using a drill vise. | ||
| Bhillberg |
I am an aircraft mechanic as well, I got these nuts from work. Just checked the P/N P/N- MS9201-02 worked great. I could be remembering wrong, but isn't the side of the stud you put the nut on fine thread? (Message edited by bhillberg on July 29, 2009) (Message edited by bhillberg on July 29, 2009) | ||
| Preybird1 |
Yes its a 5/16x20 thread and the head side has bigger threads i can't remember the pitch of those threads. | ||
| Bhillberg |
Well, from the looks of it if you are putting it back together tonight then these nuts won't help much. If you were going to do it this weekend though you might be able to order some off line or something in time. The jig is a good tool. If you found these relatively cheap though it would be an easy fix. I used them on mine and like the way it turned out. Not flashy or chrome or anything but very functional. I will say that most everything I tinker on ends up with an aircraft nut or bolt on it somewhere though. | ||
| Preybird1 |
I got a safety wire kit...It has some safety washers that have points on them where you can bend them up around the nuts side's and then you use the wire twisting pliers that came in the kit to twist the wire and wire it to the closest fixed point.I think this is the simplest way to do it vs drilling. Anyone tried these washer kits. It looks as good as drilling. I have the day off tomorrow and will install this kit and post the pics for you guys | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
I imagine it being a real PITA to safety wire in those tight areas. I've never had problems with mine coming loose when installed to SM specs. The header nuts that HD sells have ridges machined into the flat side that appear to have the same effect as a lock washer. Definitely post pics if you go ahead with the safety wiring. I'm a sucker for safety wire and anything made of stainless. | ||
| Skntpig |
Prey. I have seen those kits with the safety washers. It just looked like if you can easily bend the washer around the nut then the nut could still turn. I would prefer the drill method but I guess something is better than nothing. Lockwashers and correct torque worked for me. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
feel free to tell me if this is a horrible idea, but please explain WHY.. cuz i honestly don't know.. I'm just brainstorming. What about drilling a hole through the studs before installing them into the heads, then using a castle nut and cotter key to keep the nuts from backing off? The castle nut could even be held in place with safety wire if there isn't enough space to squeeze a cotter key in there. I don't have any problems with header nuts backing off on my bike, so don't feel very motivated to "trial and error" this one. | ||
| Bhillberg |
I thought of the castle nut/cotter pin idea when I was doing mine. The only problem I saw was how far down do you drill the hole in the stud? I mean without the thing assembled you wouldn't know how far down to do it. Theoretically you could also have the entire stud back out then, nut and all | ||
| Lake_bueller |
I'm in agreement with Buellistic. While I'm not in his mileage range (only about 60k for me), I've never had a problem. Use the right gasket and torque. | ||
| Buellistic |
"AND" proper assembly has a lot to do with the long lasting trouble free exhaust system ... | ||
| Preybird1 |
Well guys i took it all apart and guess what! There was no gasket there? What! somebody forgot to install one or it came off-out when the header was removed, I have no clue how it stayed sealed for 100+ miles. Here is how it started i was riding around and i started hearing a little backfire and thought wait a minute this bike doesn't backfire there's a problem. I pulled over and as i thought there was an issue. The lower nut on the front exhaust was missing!! But the other bolt was still in good. So i hopped into the cager and went to ace hardware and got some jam nuts and lock washers. I got home and re-torqued with red lock tight, Problem fixed or so i thought!!! The next day after i had ridden it to work i was going back home riding with my bro (he has an xb12s) And my other bro in his viper truck, Riding pretty fast and poof some smoke and loss of power followed by terrible exhaust leak and ticking sound! When we all stopped at the next light my bro jumped off his bike to check real quick and the bolts where still on. So we limped it home missing any and all bumps. When we had finally got it home and let it cool down. I went to turn the bolts and they were loose (finger tight) This time the studs backed out of the head with the nuts still loctited on the studs. So i fixed everything this morning and re-torqued everything with red locktite and lock washers.(Oh by the way i found that putting a little extra loctite on the bolt after tightening kept the nuts from turning at all) I also safety wired the shifter arm bolt as it has always backed out since i have owned this bike. |
