Author |
Message |
Kalali
| Posted on Saturday, July 25, 2009 - 06:32 pm: |
|
I am sure there are a lot of people out there like me who would gladly use HD oil. Unfortunately, at least in my dealership, they charge around $11 for a quart. I just simply can not justify paying that much for oil. I honestly go out of my way to "support" HD/Buell OEM products but sometimes I have to draw the line... |
Jramsey
| Posted on Saturday, July 25, 2009 - 06:36 pm: |
|
Google bobistheoilguy.com Shell Rotella 10-40 since '75 in all my vehicles. |
Tdman77
| Posted on Saturday, July 25, 2009 - 06:59 pm: |
|
Blake - What does the viscosity ratings have to do with additives? SAE only rates oil base on the viscosity (flowability) of the oil. It's API that sets the standard on "Service Duty" of the oil. Since they started in the 1940s there have been numerous rating changes all based on the change or increase of additives. In order of year: SA 1940 -no additives SB 1949 -first year additives introduced SC 1964 -anti sludging SD 1968 -anti wear SE 1972 -anti oxidation SF 1980 -EP additives SG 1990 -EP additives reformulated SH 1994 -ZDP amounts reduced SJ 1996 -friction modifiers SL 2001 -increase in anti oxidation SM 2004 -reformulated deposit protection and low temp performance This is taken directly from RPs site. YES there is a difference in their automotive and motorcycle oils. "Max-Cycle is specifically formulated to significantly improve motorcycle, ATV and snowmobile engine (and transmission) performance. It’s recommended for use in both air-cooled and liquid-cooled 4-cycle engines and it’s compatible with wet-clutch transmissions." And how do they come up with the different formulas? By using ADDITIVES! |
Sloppy
| Posted on Saturday, July 25, 2009 - 08:50 pm: |
|
Viscosity ratings has EVERYTHING to do with lubrication. It is the viscosity that determines whether or not you will develop sufficient film that is a suitable space between the metal parts. I understand the confusion Td (I assume the confusion is brought up by aftermarket sales people!), but let's look at it another way... What is the difference between a "motorcycle" engine and an "automotive" engine? Exactly what "additive" will destroy a motorcycle engine but not an automotive engine? Oil manufacturers have developed a market to "sell" us oils that may be more customized for an application, BUT, the designers at Buell / HD have DESIGNED their engines to run on API-C grade oil - the exact same oil that runs in automobiles and even diesel trucks! They also specify what viscosity to use so we have sufficient lubricant film to keep the metals from fusing. SOME manufacturers have designed their engines to run on JASO oil (JASO T for 4 strokes and a JASO M for 2 strokes), but not HD / Buell. Now let's get this over with a nice INDEPENDENT reference from Motorcycle Consumer News. If you know them, then great! If not, go subscribe! http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-tips/maintenance/oil---lubrication/57-the-truth-about-using-automotive-oil-in-your-motorcycle.html In summary: MCN is ready to print any research or test results provided by the oil companies to support their claims of superior viscosity retention, with this one proviso: The comparisons must be against actual, SG-rated oil products that can be purchased off the shelf at the average auto parts store. Tests against generic, basic-stock mineral oil or against the lower-rated SE and SF oils would lack any credibility in a real-world context. Despite more than six months of research, reading all the claims and counter-claims printed by dozens of industry experts and lubrication experts, MCN cannot and does not purport to know all there is to know about the differences between automotive and motorcycle oils. However, what we do know is that we can find no substantive evidence that using a high-quality, name-brand automotive oil in an average street motorcycle is in any way harmful or less effective in providing proper lubrication and protection than using the more expensive, motorcycle-specific oils. (Message edited by sloppy on July 25, 2009) |
5liter
| Posted on Saturday, July 25, 2009 - 10:18 pm: |
|
Don't these oil threads get old after a while??? |
Blake
| Posted on Sunday, July 26, 2009 - 12:17 am: |
|
Knowledge is power. Absorbing at face value the propaganda from an oil retailer, not so much. TD, I posted the question on gear versus engine oil grades to illustrate the rampant misinformation, and inaccurate conventional "wisdom" that exists about oil in general. Your prior post is one more example of that. Sloppy nailed it. |
Pkforbes87
| Posted on Sunday, July 26, 2009 - 01:45 am: |
|
A while ago I picked up a case of RP 20w50 maxcycle and have since realized that dark purple oil has drawbacks - such as the fact that I can't tell how dirty the oil REALLY is when I change it. I'm sure it is a good oil but I think every oil will get the job done, and that with the RP brand I've more than likely paid $12/quart for the name on the bottle. As soon as my case of RP is gone I'll be getting Amsoil from a fellow Bueller. |
|