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Archive through July 25, 2009Kalali30 07-25-09  06:30 pm
         

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Kalali
Posted on Saturday, July 25, 2009 - 06:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am sure there are a lot of people out there like me who would gladly use HD oil.
Unfortunately, at least in my dealership, they charge around $11 for a quart. I just simply can not justify paying that much for oil. I honestly go out of my way to "support" HD/Buell OEM products but sometimes I have to draw the line...
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Jramsey
Posted on Saturday, July 25, 2009 - 06:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Google bobistheoilguy.com

Shell Rotella 10-40 since '75 in all my vehicles.
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Tdman77
Posted on Saturday, July 25, 2009 - 06:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Blake - What does the viscosity ratings have to do with additives? SAE only rates oil base on the viscosity (flowability) of the oil. It's API that sets the standard on "Service Duty" of the oil. Since they started in the 1940s there have been numerous rating changes all based on the change or increase of additives. In order of year:

SA 1940 -no additives
SB 1949 -first year additives introduced
SC 1964 -anti sludging
SD 1968 -anti wear
SE 1972 -anti oxidation
SF 1980 -EP additives
SG 1990 -EP additives reformulated
SH 1994 -ZDP amounts reduced
SJ 1996 -friction modifiers
SL 2001 -increase in anti oxidation
SM 2004 -reformulated deposit protection and low temp performance

This is taken directly from RPs site. YES there is a difference in their automotive and motorcycle oils.

"Max-Cycle is specifically formulated to significantly improve motorcycle, ATV and snowmobile engine (and transmission) performance. It’s recommended for use in both air-cooled and liquid-cooled 4-cycle engines and it’s compatible with wet-clutch transmissions."


And how do they come up with the different formulas? By using ADDITIVES!
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Sloppy
Posted on Saturday, July 25, 2009 - 08:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Viscosity ratings has EVERYTHING to do with lubrication. It is the viscosity that determines whether or not you will develop sufficient film that is a suitable space between the metal parts.

I understand the confusion Td (I assume the confusion is brought up by aftermarket sales people!), but let's look at it another way...

What is the difference between a "motorcycle" engine and an "automotive" engine? Exactly what "additive" will destroy a motorcycle engine but not an automotive engine?

Oil manufacturers have developed a market to "sell" us oils that may be more customized for an application, BUT, the designers at Buell / HD have DESIGNED their engines to run on API-C grade oil - the exact same oil that runs in automobiles and even diesel trucks! They also specify what viscosity to use so we have sufficient lubricant film to keep the metals from fusing.

SOME manufacturers have designed their engines to run on JASO oil (JASO T for 4 strokes and a JASO M for 2 strokes), but not HD / Buell.

Now let's get this over with a nice INDEPENDENT reference from Motorcycle Consumer News. If you know them, then great! If not, go subscribe!

http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-tips/maintenance/oil---lubrication/57-the-truth-about-using-automotive-oil-in-your-motorcycle.html

In summary:
MCN is ready to print any research or test results provided by the oil companies to support their claims of superior viscosity retention, with this one proviso: The comparisons must be against actual, SG-rated oil products that can be purchased off the shelf at the average auto parts store. Tests against generic, basic-stock mineral oil or against the lower-rated SE and SF oils would lack any credibility in a real-world context.

Despite more than six months of research, reading all the claims and counter-claims printed by dozens of industry experts and lubrication experts, MCN cannot and does not purport to know all there is to know about the differences between automotive and motorcycle oils. However, what we do know is that we can find no substantive evidence that using a high-quality, name-brand automotive oil in an average street motorcycle is in any way harmful or less effective in providing proper lubrication and protection than using the more expensive, motorcycle-specific oils.

(Message edited by sloppy on July 25, 2009)
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5liter
Posted on Saturday, July 25, 2009 - 10:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Don't these oil threads get old after a while???
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Blake
Posted on Sunday, July 26, 2009 - 12:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Knowledge is power.

Absorbing at face value the propaganda from an oil retailer, not so much.

TD,

I posted the question on gear versus engine oil grades to illustrate the rampant misinformation, and inaccurate conventional "wisdom" that exists about oil in general.

Your prior post is one more example of that.

Sloppy nailed it.
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Sunday, July 26, 2009 - 01:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A while ago I picked up a case of RP 20w50 maxcycle and have since realized that dark purple oil has drawbacks - such as the fact that I can't tell how dirty the oil REALLY is when I change it.

I'm sure it is a good oil but I think every oil will get the job done, and that with the RP brand I've more than likely paid $12/quart for the name on the bottle.

As soon as my case of RP is gone I'll be getting Amsoil from a fellow Bueller.
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