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Kalali
| Posted on Saturday, July 18, 2009 - 07:59 am: |
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I have been taking slack out of my clutch free play by adjusting the screw on the cable (between the forks). Today I noticed that there is very little room left for further adjustment using this screw. So is the next step to take the clutch cover off and do the adjustment from there? I looked at my FSM but not sure I can follow... Appreciate any help. Thanks. |
Fasted
| Posted on Saturday, July 18, 2009 - 08:13 am: |
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if you can't figure out the step-by-step in the fsm, as usual, there are multiple posts in the knowledge vault. it is quite simple. may as well check your primary adjustment at the same time be sure the oil level is correct, as well the entire thing, even in learning mode will only take about 1/2 hour. good luck ! |
Kalali
| Posted on Saturday, July 18, 2009 - 08:22 am: |
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Thanks. That's encouraging.. I also thought may be my cable has stretched too far...Is that possible? |
Kalali
| Posted on Saturday, July 18, 2009 - 08:31 am: |
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Just to clarify, my clutch engages/disengages just fine. All I want to do is take some slack out of the clutch lever free-play. Do I still need to "adjust" the clutch itself? Like I said, I am just running out of adjustment using the simple nut on the cable behind the plastic boot. Sorry if this was too obvious. |
F_skinner
| Posted on Saturday, July 18, 2009 - 09:42 am: |
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Kalali, Is your clutch cable new? I have found that I need to readjust at about 500 to 1000 miles and I usually adjust it from the clutch and when that is set to spec I adjust the cable to where I feel comfortable with it. I check it every time I do an oil change and readjust as necessary. |
Ebutch
| Posted on Saturday, July 18, 2009 - 05:23 pm: |
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Clutch adjustment changing a lot.Mine was found out it was lever pivot worn-out out of round got new leaver From Buell $20.00 and back in business. |
Ebutch
| Posted on Saturday, July 18, 2009 - 05:28 pm: |
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Oldog
| Posted on Saturday, July 18, 2009 - 09:18 pm: |
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Good Catch Butch! Kali, until the adjuster is out of adjustment its ok, if you are unsure, check the lever by slacking the cable, and pulling the pivot screw, if it looks like butches its shot, the levers have bronze bushings when new, if ok the normal "slack" is 1/16" ~ 1/8" BTW I'm In the BRAN if you wanna chat on this, Fasted I cant do the adjustments and button up the bike in 1/2 hour.. |
Ebutch
| Posted on Saturday, July 18, 2009 - 10:35 pm: |
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Jim Thanks. Some times I even impress my self. |
Fasted
| Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2009 - 12:17 am: |
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even if you double it to a full hour, it is still a straightforward (see knowledge vault & fsm) short fix. the more practice, the quicker it goes. i've had some practice.... this is buell maintenance 101, and absolutely is non intimidating when you have some experience. i was a virgin once...jump in |
Kalali
| Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2009 - 11:33 am: |
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Well, this is what happened... I rode the bike to the dealer to check on the ISO. The guy went back and brought out the 16207-79D. I told him that the center hole will not fit. He said this is what the "computer" shows for the '00 X1. $65. Anyway, as for the clutch, I figured while I was there might as well ask the service guy. He said it will cost $35 to adjust the clutch. Well, I chickened out and had him do it. Hour later all done. He also changed the throw-out bearing ($10). It looked totally shot. Total bill $50. Totally worth it (to me) since I would have probably missed the bearing. It works perfectly now. Maintenance 101 will have to wait for another day.... Thanks for all your input. P.S. My dealership (Long Branch HD in NJ) have a couple of mechanics on the staff who race Buells and know Buells inside out. They are fanatics about the Tubers. I am very lucky based on what I hear from other folks. |
Fasted
| Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2009 - 11:58 am: |
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my theory is, "when in doubt, don't" $50 isn't much for peace of mind, if you have it to spend. get friendly with those guys. do the work that you can do yourself, and pay them to do the rest. i have a great relationship with my dealer and his service department. they even lent me a tool once over the weekend. happy buelling!!! |
Fasted
| Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2009 - 12:02 pm: |
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very few parts counter guys know anything other than what the computer tells them. always go armed with knowledge and part numbers. you will have to teach them what they don't know. you WILL be given the wrong part from time to time. take old stuff with you, or picures, or whatever, but be prepared |
Buellistic
| Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2009 - 01:23 pm: |
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BUELLers: There are FOUR(4) things that lead to clutch adjustment problems: "CLUTCH LEVER" that is not lubracate'd on a "PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE" schedule ... If you drill a OIL hole in the pivot bolt to LUBE. same and drill a OIL hole over the clutch cable end you will never break a clutch cable ... "GRENADE PLATE" also know as SPRING PLATE PN 37913-90 which when it goes makes it hard to keep clutch adjusted, also takes other clutch parts with it ... "PRODUCT IMPROVEMENT", replace it with one(1)FRICTION PLATE PN 37911-90 and two(2) STEEL PLATEs PN 37913-90 ... From 2001 on, not in SPORTSTER CLUTCH's, was never in the BLAST or XB CLUTCH's(CHECK TO MAKE SURE A PREVIOUS OWNER MAYBE DID THIS UP-DATE) ... "BEARING,clutch adjusting" PN 8885(like a throw out in a STD. TRANS. car)which when it goes bad makes the clutch hard to keep adjusted ... It will prematurely go bad if the OIL level is not up to the edge of the SPRING,diaphragm PN 36792-91 ... You can get these at a LOCAL BEARING STORE and you can ask for the BEST BEARING available ... "i" chose a SEALED BEARING, do to the fact of where to bearing is located(you can re-grease sealed bearings) ... "CLUTCH CABLE" that is not lubricated on a "PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE" schedule will cause clutch adjustment problems ... MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU !!! |
Kalali
| Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2009 - 08:04 pm: |
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Like I said before, the words of Buellestic echo for several minutes after I read them... Thanks for sharing your knowledge. |
Eshardball
| Posted on Friday, July 24, 2009 - 04:26 pm: |
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Is the grenade plate present in a 2000 S3? |
Buellistic
| Posted on Friday, July 24, 2009 - 05:45 pm: |
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From 2001 on, the SPORTSTER clutch's do not have the SPRING PLATE(aka grenade plate), "BUT" "i" am not saying some previous owner could have put one back in as it does make for a smoother releasing clutch for a LADY ... The BLAST and XB clutch's never had it !!! MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU !!! |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Saturday, July 25, 2009 - 07:48 am: |
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I wasn't thinking when I replaced my clutch plates. I just put in the new plates and threw out the old plates. I should have removed the grenade plate from the new plates and added three of the old non-worn plates from the old stack. What was the recipe again? Two steel and one friction? Water under the bridge now I guess. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Saturday, July 25, 2009 - 05:27 pm: |
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Natexlh1000: If you want that "INFO" and more, e-mail me so that "i" can get your e-mail address and it is yours ... |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Saturday, July 25, 2009 - 05:37 pm: |
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Thanks but it doesn't matter now. My X1 is essentially "retired" from active duty. It has 84,000 on it and now I have a 2008 XB12X Also, I chucked out the good plates along with the worn out grenade-affected plates. |
Kalali
| Posted on Sunday, July 26, 2009 - 10:15 am: |
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84000 may be a record here for an X1. Makes me hopeful. |
Oldog
| Posted on Monday, July 27, 2009 - 11:45 am: |
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I bet an X1 will go farther, I have 40 on mine now, However I had the top end off. |
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