| Author | Message | ||
     F_skinner |
The shifter is not correct for this bike. I do not know how many times while trying to remove these that I broken them in the same way. I use a battery post puller now and have not broke one since.   I need to get this cleaned up. The frame actually looks pretty good with the exception of the Montana dirt. I have been busy with the tail section this morning. I need to slow down a bit but will do what I can and get it ready for the motor build by fall. Lynn got me some more ziplocks for me so it is bag and tag time. I am thinking that I will do the motor in the frame so I can tune the carb to the stock exhaust then drop the motor to do the frame. I always remove the frame first so I can have easy access to the motor then tune it when reinstalled. I do not know which way is better. I love this stuff.  Found a hole in the fairing. I have no idea what that was there for. No big deal. Fiberglass is easy to work with.  My goal is to ride her to Homecoming on the 30th Buell anniversary. | ||
| Ustorque |
My goal is to ride her to Homecoming on the 30th Buell anniversary. i'm sure you will Frank, and as always i'm sure you'll have another bike i'll be jealous of when you are done with her! have fun | ||
| F_skinner |
It is a good thing I did not ride it home. The front wheel bearings are shot. I got all the body work off and transfered everything to the new rear fairing (tail section). I know have a better idea of what I am working with.  Tomorrow I will tackle the saddle bags. | ||
| Buelltours |
Hi Frank! Congrats to an -yet another- excellent purchase. I still have to travel to Florida for my recent acquisition. The madness is worth it. Have much fun restoring!!! | ||
| Ratbuell |
I'll dig. Might have stuff you can use, just have to put hands on it....  Nice bike. Glad another one will live again! | ||
| F_skinner |
Joe, you might know this. The screws on the top of the saddle bags (the lid) part number 53001-95y as listed in the parts manual. They are called "special head" screws. Is there a "special head screw" tool? I think they put these on the bags to prevent people from opening them by simply unscrewing them so the latch falls. I replaced these on my other set but want to keep them on this one. I can remove them fine without the tool bit I scratch them up a bit and would like to use the tool if it is cheap enough. | ||
| Sportyeric |
I bought a set at an auto shop. For $15 or so I got a kit of 20 odd shaped bits, including small Torx and other stuff. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Yeh, I can check to see if there's an HD tool out there, but AFAIK it's just a Security Torx - a torx screw with a dot in it, and the end of the tool has a small hole/dimple for the dot. I've got a Home Depot trip planned for today anyway - got to find a substitute for the knurled nuts on the saddlebag lid cables so I can safety my narrow lids to match my wides - and I'll look around for a security torx. | ||
| Gowindward |
Frank, Found this listing this morning. Looks like an arse hat turned an S2 into a parts basket. http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/mcy/1246366634.ht ml | ||
| F_skinner |
Yep, I saw it too. That is ok, it just increases the value of ours. I am betting in ten years that you will not be able to buy a S2 for less than 10K. I would not sell my S2-T (number 95 or 240) for 20K. There are a few pivotal bikes in the history of Buell. The first one of course, the RR, the S2 and the S1W are the ones I think of. A self proclaimed Buell guy stopped by yesterday when I had the newest S2-T in the driveway for a cleaning. I thought he was going to have an accident when he went by. He went around the block and stopped. He recognized it as a Buell. I was impressed. He thought it was a Westwind (no bodywork was on it). He wanted to know if it was for sale, I said no then he saw the garage. I thought he was going to piss his pants. He said he really liked the S2 because that is when Harley started making them. I laughed, I told him about a good book he should read and if he really wanted a S2 he could have my 95 for 10K after he passed a test on the history of Buell and the S2. Funny stuff! I have always been a Shovelhead guy. I still look at Shovels from time to time. I like the motor and the 4 speed swingarm frame. IMO the best looking bike HD ever made. When you see someone on a Shovelhead you have to think, that the person knows something about his bike and most likely does his own work to keep it on the road. The S2 is like that for me. If you ride one you have to know about the bike. You have to maintain it. It is not a bike you ride all year and do nothing to it. I see someone on a tuber I know that person is a Buell guy. Not riding it until he can afford a Harley but a true Buell enthusiast. There are exceptions of course but that has been my general experience. | ||
| Easy_rider |
I see parts I want there, but I sure don't see $10K! It looks like it all started going south when he installed the rear wheel backwards... | ||
| Ratbuell |
Sorry, my mistake. Took a look (in the light) at lunch, they're security *hex* (allen) screws, not torx. Should be easy to get a hold of...but I didn't get a chance @ home depot just now. I was lucky to get out of the place alive...what a madhouse. I'll dig later today though | ||
| Court |
>>>they're security *hex* (allen) screws, not torx. Pretty standard . . . likely a Home Depot item. If there is any problem I think I have some extras in the cases of Buell latch repair kits somewhere. If yo ucan't find one, let me know. I saw them a while back in some catalog I bought some 200mm T27 t-handles from. Taaaataaaaaa . . found it. | ||
| Gowindward |
}"I see parts I want there" That's what I was thinking Roger. Certainly not 10K but he may be willing to start parting with a few odd parts that would have no use to a chopper guy like himself. | ||
| F_skinner |
Joe and Court, thanks for the info. I will hit a HW store soon. Frank | ||
| Essmjay |
Looks like two motors, and two frames, for 5500. Buy for the motors and the s2 parts, sell the rest. You know you want to. Offer him 4500, he can only say no... | ||
| Easy_rider |
You know you want to. Offer him 4500, he can only say no... Yes I do.... I was thinking $4K. I was also thinking that I can't sleep in either one! I've stretched my limits for awhile. I'm not sure I'm buying the S1 story. The motor doesn't look freshly painted, and the block/fins aren't the original configuration {not that the coloring can't be changed :-)} | ||
| Ratbuell |
...and for more saddlebag hardware fun, see my new "got nuts" thread | ||
| F_skinner |
Here is one. http://denver.craigslist.org/mcy/1247612593.html | ||
| F_skinner |
Butch, I am not a painter so some of this stuff does not make since to me so let me see if I got this right. 1, Apply a Chroma base first (I assume that is a color?) 2, Apply Dupont paint code 85T (Medium Slate) 3, Apply Clear Coat Are the decals clear coated over? They seem to be to me but like I said I do not know much about painting but am willing to learn. Sorry for the dumb questions. Frank | ||
| Ratbuell |
Frank - not a painter here either...but yes, the decals go on before the clearcoat. They're coated over. MAKE SURE not to get any finger grease on them or the surrounding color when applying, or you'll get assholes/fish-eyes in the clearcoat from the finger oils. Of course, I speak only from Testor's plastic model experience here.... | ||
| F_skinner |
Thanks Joe, I do not have anything ready for paint or any of the tools to do it but I do have a book on how to paint. Court was going to get some paint info for me so I am hoping I can get a perfect match. I have several pieces to practice on and have samples of the original paint so I should be could. I would rather have a professional do this but I have yet to find a decent painter in town. The guy that did my S1W is in Santa Fe NM and if I cant do it I will go see him. He was a Buell rider at one time. | ||
| Ebutch |
That,s the type of paint,+ code.DuPount ,ChromaBase,code 85T.Base coat,color.And clear-coat.Dead match for Quick-Silver. | ||
| Easy_rider |
The painter for mine does a lot of custom work. I'm having templates made for the logos - front fairing, tank, tailpiece - so that it will be a layer of paint rather than decals. It seems like you're heading for a true restoration rather than a rebuild like mine, but if you're interested, I'll see if I can get them in a format that is transferable. | ||
| Ebutch |
Decals are applied over base-coat( color).Then apply clear coat over decals. | ||
| F_skinner |
I have no doubts Butch. I wanted to see what Court had to say. Believe me, I do appreciate your help. I think Court was checking with Buell to see what they were using and to tell you the truth I would like to know if for nothing else future reference. I am a long way off from doing anything. I just started making a parts list. I got to tell you, when I got the S2-T tail section from Buell for the S2 Gathering in Quicksilver metallic I was speechless. I have only seen one other Quicksilver S2T in person and was so excited I did not notice the paint. The original color is much richer than what mine is. | ||
| F_skinner |
Roger, I would like to do that for my other bike. When you come up with something you can share let me know. Half he fun for me is the research and yes one will be a complete restoration and the other is my rider. I have to plan this out a bit. I will be doing the top end on the 96 I just bought and the 95 at the same time (there is a reason for that). The body work for both S2Ts will be done at the same time. In my haste to start on the restoration process I forgot to get a VIN inspection. I now have to load the bike in the trick and take it to get the inspection before I can title it. I hate when I get ahead of myself. | ||
| Ebutch |
Buell used Sickins paint.Clear coat paint.Can,t get any more.This was what I come up with a computer match of a pic.taken of my S2T.If you go to Dupont dlr you can look at sample of code 85T GM 1990 medium Slate base coat and clear coat.A dead ringer! | ||
| Easy_rider |
You're not alone. I rushed into tearing mine down and had it powdercoated before the inspection. The shop felt like american bikes tended to be stamped deeper and wouldn't be a problem. Now the first couple of numbers aren't immediately legible, and I may not be able to get them there. The officer suggested rubbing graphite in to see the numbers. The officer also mentioned that I should have things assembled before they sign off. He did take time to run the number and confirm that it's not stolen, though. (Least of my worries...). At least in Indy they'll come to the bike. He showed up and started moving toward the S3. Nope - it's this pile of schtuff over here... What I thought I'd be able to do, and it turns out that I can't, is generate a new VIN sticker. I guess that's something for you to think about - how do you save the sticker with the VIN stamped in it. I'd prefer to have the looks of an original on mine, even though I'm not trying for a resto, and I'm a little bummed about it. I could see it being tougher on your end. Perhaps someone with connections can get you what you need. Maybe while they're at it they can do two..... | ||
| F_skinner |
I have thought about that. I was going to use a air dryer to gently peal it off and reapply later. There is another sticker up front that is not listed in the parts book and I will try the same thing with that. I have to tell myself to take my time. I hate to rush something like this. Something else I have been thinking about is the hose clamps. I hate those HD hose clamps they use. I am sure they use a special tool to apply those but I have no idea about that. I do not think I have ever seen one. I do cuss them a lot trying to get them off. |
