| Author | Message | ||
     Swordsman |
Okay, so maybe this was a mistake: I dumped all the old fluid out before I started adding any new, and it's taking forever to get any feel back in the lever. However, I keep going through the motions, and I'm not getting anywhere. Squeeze the lever a few times, crack the valve, lever drops to the bottom, continue holding at bottom and close valve, repeat. Add more fluid when the reservoir gets low. I've been doing this forever now, and I can't get any feel back in it. I've gone through about 5oz (almost a half bottle) of brake fluid with no visible progress. It's a stock brake lever set on #1 adjustment, and it doesn't offer ANY resistance until it's over half way, and it's easy to pull all the way back the the throttle grip. I'm not getting any bubbles at all, and the bottom keeps spitting fluid. What am I doing wrong here...?  ~SM (Message edited by Swordsman on June 30, 2009) | ||
| Swordsman |
Never mind. It just needed to sit for awhile. I went back and tried it again, and I finally got some more bubbles. I can;t pull it back to the grip anymore, so I guess I'm finally getting somewhere. ~SM | ||
| Sifo |
Sometimes you can jar bubbles lose by tapping the brake lines, master cylinder, and caliper. | ||
| Jeffroj |
I've seen someone on here filling their brake lines from the bottom up, with a syringe and some tubing, pushes the air up and out. Neat trick, never tried it yet though. | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
Sometimes you can jar bubbles lose by tapping the brake lines, master cylinder, and caliper. +1 there's noting much to do with air bubbles in the line, best way to get rid of those is to keep pumping them through the like till they get to the caliper, i dont think you can tap them loose. so pump away. for the caliper bubbles.. get a rubber mallet and slam on the caliper while pumping the lever. or to get the higher frequency bubble jarring-ness; get a rag, fold it over a few times and place it on the caliper and get a solid item like a large 19mm wrench and bash on it. the mallet will do, and the second suggestion is just a theory about higher frequency jarring bubbles loose, if you get the just of where im coming from  | ||
| Gjwinaus |
Once you try the syringe method you will never go back, It makes brake bleeding so easy. See this thread http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/174272.html?1220634271 | ||
| Gunut75 |
I use a Vacula vacuum bleeder. Hook it up, turn it on, crack the bleeder, and make sure the reservoir stays full. Makes it easy. The hard part is finding one that yer buddy can loan ya for 10 min. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Also, after bleeding, seal everything up and pull the brake hard, and put a velcro strap around to keep it under pressure until your next ride (i.e. over night or over a weekend). Repeat this 4 or 5 times. You'll end up with incredibly firm brakes. I think it works because it compresses the bubbles and makes them smaller, which helps them work their way up out of the master cylinder. Maybe, maybe not, but however it works, it really works. Using this technique, I was able to make the front brake on a KLR-250 only suck a little... and that's saying something right there!  | ||
| Starter |
Syringe on the calliper bleeder and push the fluid up thru gets my vote every time. Showed a mechanic mate thats been working on cars and bikes for a good 40years this trick only on the weekend when he was attempting the bleed his Husky dirt bike with a new front line, and he near fainted. He was so surprised and speechless he forgot to tell me the reservoir was full. You still need to bleed the calliper the convetional way but takes a lot of pumping out of a fluid change or line replacement. |
