| Author | Message | ||
     1125rz |
need your feedback.drove 1500 miles with the tm pipe,both a/f's were 100%,bike ran great.did slight top end remap,drove a couple hundred miles & noticed lean type miss/popping from the motor during cruise 3-5k.(& YOU CAN FEEL IT)thought i messed up the remap & tried to put to stock map.frt a/f went to 110,rear went to 89.5.had dealer put last flash back,drove another couple hundred miles,miss/popping seems to be getting worse.now frt at 105,rear at 90.if pipe was causing this wouldnt both a/f values be same & why didnt it show up earlier?what a/f value is rich & what is lean.have seen contradicting postings on this subject.should i put the stock pipe back on & drive to see if a/f & drivability changes or do you think i have a problem & dealer time? | ||
| Doerman |
Ok.. This is only a collection of letter. Try: - Paragraphs. - Spaces after period - Nouns and verbs in a sentence - Caps for first letter in a sentence - Use ? after a question. | ||
| Skylerxb12r |
A high afv indicates that the bike is running lean and is adjusting by adding fuel (110 AFV = 110% applied to all values in the fuel table) and vice versa. How did you perform your remap? I would assume you used ECM spy and a certain unmentionable software. If thats the case i hope you saved a copy of the stock EEPROM before you made any modifications. I would suggest printing that EEPROM and comparing it to what you fetch from your bike. Pay careful attention to the areas related to the fuel and timing tables, ie rows 700-A90. My guess is that you will find a few cells with skewed values in the area related to your misfire. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
do you think i have a problem Yes and possibly your bike as well. | ||
| Bott |
aftermarket pipes have been shown to make differences in front/rear afv's much higher. When I first installed my D&D I was at 115.5 front 110 rear. You should probably go back to the dealer,after putting your stock pipe on, and ask them to reflash to factory settings. Then either study more, or spend some more money on software before changing things. Something is wrong, and its gonna be YOUR fault if things go bad. *in my opinion* | ||
| Bob_thompson |
I believe the difference in AFV's with most aftermarket muffler systems is due mostly to lack of equal length headers, with the exception of course of Buell's own race system. Beautiful! This causes an unequal air flow between the two cylinders resulting in the ECM compensating with unequal corrections for fuel. Although a stock muffler looks like it has unequal pipe lengths, I believe, that is compensated for inside the muffler with different length pipes there giving the motor equal air flow and hence equal fueling. All this does not appear to greatly effect the running performance of the motor until the AFV's get considerably far apart. Maybe 15-20 points or more. One thing I found with "my system" is that a larger diameter collector pipe going into the muffler helps somewhat. Also, I think if you are tweeking the ECM with any software, you probably should do a full throughout the rpm tweek with quite a few dyno runs to see exactly where you are with A/F ratios which directly relate to air flow. And lets not forget ignition lead timing. It does play a part also. Buell put a lot of time and work into this, and still is, to be perfect for a stock bike. Stock is hard to beat but some, as myself, like a little more sound and as long as the AFV's compensate enough I believe you would be fine. Buell might look at it differently if fueling due to bad air flow causes a destructive engine failure. Just my take FWIW. I am also waiting for a plug and play system for the ECM so it would compensate for at least some aftermarket systems. It would probably never be as absolutely correct as tweeking each individual system but boy is that costly and time consuming. I'm satisfied for now. Also for the guys racing I do not think you could do any better then to get the Buell racing parts, with few exceptions as I believe they have much more engineering experience behind them. And then alter for the individual requirement/track, ect. Bob (Message edited by bob_thompson on July 04, 2009) | ||
| Easyrider |
try to reset the tps... and see what happends... turn ignition on, wait until check engine light is off (reed this dont start the bike when doing this) open throttle wot (full)hold it there and counts 22-23 do this 3 times, open throttle count 22 -23 let throttle go open throttle count 22 -23 let throttle go open throttle count 22 -23 let throttle go now your tps sensor is reset to the original ecm value where it should work the best and start and drive the bike, let me now what happends with the AF value (Message edited by Easyrider on July 04, 2009) for everybody who cares, it's the best to do this procedure every time before you start the bike and start driving. this is not a joke.. (Message edited by Easyrider on July 04, 2009) | ||
| Boltrider |
Maybe an exhaust leak? Well maybe not. I see it ran well before you did the remap. (Message edited by boltrider on July 04, 2009) | ||
| Xbswede |
Since he had the dealer re-flash back to stock I would do what Easyrider suggested. | ||
| 1125rz |
will try tps reset easyrider,but dealer did it after putting stock map back in.did notice slight exhaust leak at headerpipe to exhaust(downstream of o2's)will try to seal up better. |
