| Author | Message | ||
     Halowse |
Hello buellers! Picked up an 08 1125r today to replace my stolen 08 Firebolt. Great bike, although im not used to the fierce sound of this new engine, it sounds so mean and angry compared to my former XB12r. Couple of questions for 08 1125r owners... There seems to be a bit of dead-play in the throttle, i ahve to roll it about a 1/3 inch before there is any go... and then there is a whole lot of go! Is this normal? Anyway to get rid of that dead zone? Same with the front brake... a bit of a dead zone in the squeeze and then a whole lot of brake... can this be adjusted for a smoother progression? I notice a bit of a *Clack* when letting go of the throttle too quickly in lower gears, bike gets a little bit jerky, lurches a lot more than my firebolt ever did... is this normal for the 1125r? Doesnt happen if i smooth on or off the throttle but if i let it go quickly it clacks. Can we buy new plastics for these? Whose selling them if so? I'd like to convert all the black pieces to white. Like my old firebolt. Im thinking white with the dark blue metal will look pretty sweet. Photoshop says im right! I dont know how anyone pins the throttle on this thing, it feels like im going to fly off the back at 3/4 of the way up the tach. Dang! I guess thats not a question but still... wow. I dont have any of the surging or chugging issues, so im guessing i have a newer ECM flash. Whats the deal with getting the 09 cluster installed under warranty? What's supposed to be wrong with the 08's instruments? The manual says 15mph to upshift to 2nd... but in reality it chugs hard in 2nd unless im doing more like 25mph at least. Normal? thx for any and all answers!} | ||
| Dirty_john |
Until I recently sold my Firebolt I owned both this bike and an 1125R. I had fitted the master cylinder and 8 pot caliper to the Firebolt and the braking power was awesome, seemed less on the 1125R, bled the brakes and it is now as it should be, sounds like the 1125R you rode could do with this. Throttle dead play sounds like poorly adjusted cables as both my bikes did not show this issue. As for on/off throttle jerks - yes at low revs but this engine was designed to operate comfortably at higher revs than any thunderstorm engine can dream off - different torque characteristics. 08 clusters had a habit of suffering from condensation but my 09 started to do this in the winter here in the uk, the next winter will show if there is a problem. Shift up at a higher rpm, the manual is really to satisfy safety legislation | ||
| Black9 |
Disconnect the "noid", should get rid of the throttle "dead zone"...at least it did on mine.I believe the replacement of the instrument cluster would be required only if you're getting excessive battery drain while the bike has sat. If I'm putting around I shift around 4000 rpm....After owning 3 other XB's it took awhile to get used to the hydrolic clutch and power band, but after a couple hundred miles it was like butter! | ||
| Metalrabbit |
I rode home an 09 the last day of May and getting use to the herky, jerky slow speed of that thing was a challenge. Its a bike with a "track" powerband, no doubt about it. Look out in the first three gears between 6 & 10,000, the fronts coming up in the later end of the band. Its about the best car passer I ever rode, I start at 5,000 in anything but 1st. Single cars require just a short burp and your by'em. I rarely get around 4000, unless loping or at speed in higher gears,, it just doesn't like being below that rpm. If you want to see what the bike was really built for check out the "Road America" vid just a few topics below this one. (Message edited by metalrabbit on June 10, 2009) (Message edited by metalrabbit on June 10, 2009) | ||
| Jmr1283 |
yah adjust ur pull throttle cable, de noid it. go to ur local dealer and get a resistor plug. i dont remember the part number. while ur there buy a service manual. i shift from first at around 40 normally. but if im just putting along ill shift anywhere. i can drive anywhere in the rpm range with no surging jerkying. i guess im just lucky | ||
| Eagle1 |
I'll typically only ride 2nd if I'm going 20mph or so. 15 will lug a little for me. I chuckled at your comment about almost flying off when pinning the throttle  | ||
| Doctorneon |
Heavy duty velcro should help you stay on, and keep pegging the throttle,  its good for the soul. | ||
| Halowse |
Tuned my suspension then rode 200 miles today. Got near 130mph a couple times, no faster, as the saying goes, safety is no accident, ya know? Ordered the Pegasus seat when I got home. Otherwise, O*M*G !  No regrets purchasing this bike! But I cant seem to find the step by step, "removing the noid for dummies" thread, the one with all the nice pictures for aspiring mechanical types like myself. Anyone know where that thread went? (Message edited by halowse on June 10, 2009) | ||
| Metalrabbit |
well your beyond me Halowse, I don't even know what a "noid" is  | ||
| Ponti1 |
Try these threads: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/367280.html http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/386034.html?1218610089 | ||
| Spectrum |
I love reading these posts by new owners. I have had mine for 18 months and still have the same excitement about the bike I did when I brought it home. I think this is first purchase I have ever had where that new ownership feeling didn't wear off after a couple of months. | ||
| Doerman |
Same with me, Spectrum. Still, after 19K miles, I love getting on mine! Does not matter if it is commuting or sport riding. This bike is great fun. | ||
| P_squared |
You have 3 basic options for a ‘noidectomy’: 1) Remove the cable, but leave the noid plugged in. 2) Leave the cable, but unplug the noid (need the $6 resistor - Buell part # Y0248.1AM) 3) Remove the noid entirely (need the $6 resistor - Buell part # Y0248.1AM). All 3 of the above will stop the 'failure to accelerate' condition when you meet the criteria to activate the noid. Steps for option #1: 1. Remove seat (2 torx screws) 2. Remove outer airbox cover (4 torx screws) 3. Remove inner airbox cover (plastic clips) 4. Remove air filter 5. Remove air filter holder 6. Pull cable out of butterfly attach point. 7. Safetywire/zip tie cable out of way of other moving parts or completely remove from noid. Steps for Option #2: 1. Remove seat (2 torx screws) 2. Remove outer airbox cover (4 torx screws) 3. Unplug noid at connector and plug in resistor (Buell part # Y0248.1AM). Steps for Option #3: 1. Remove seat (2 torx screws) 2. Remove outer airbox cover (4 torx screws) 3. Remove inner airbox cover (plastic clips) 4. Remove air filter 5. Remove air filter holder 6. Pull cable out of butterfly attach point. 7. Unplug noid at wire harness connector. 8. Insert resistor into plug in wire harness (Buell part # Y0248.1AM). 9. Remove noid. For options #1 & 3, it’s highly recommended to tie the linkage. Whichever option you choose, the reason for doing this mod is to prevent the noid from activating in 3rd gear ~4.5k rpm, which causes a temporary ‘failure to accelerate’ condition. Great pics for the visuals are in the 1st link Ponti1 posted. | ||
| Halowse |
thanks, i'll get in there and see if I can make it happen. | ||
| Mountainstorm |
@P_Squared I followed your step by step for #3 and it was easy...even I could do it  Thanks! |
