| Author | Message | ||
     Ds_tiger |
I replaced the oil in the CR with AMSOIL 10-40. Bike is more noisy IDLING!! Chitty Chitty BANG BANG clatter noise-- And to compound the matter the clutch lever now engages fully at 95% out rather than the whatever the heck it was before- ?? 80% out. Any body have this experience or an opinion on the matter?? | ||
| Dobieg2002 |
I used Amsoil 20-50 and no issues here. It seemed quieter and a bit smoother. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Not the oil. Using the same stuff. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
tiger sounds like your CR doesn't care for the new oil. i have a honda that is very choosy on the oil it likes. | ||
| Ds_tiger |
Hmmm- now you have me thinking... which if you knew me, ISN'T GOOD! | ||
| Dobieg2002 |
Sorry about that, didn't finish my thoughts.. Maybe because it is a lighter weight oil? | ||
| Zac4mac |
Loretta got a bit noisier when I switched to Red Line 10w-40 last Fall. Also a bit "snappier" due to the thinner oil. Don't worry, be happy. Z | ||
| Daggar |
Try using the Amsoil 20-50. I have no issues. My bike seemed a little smoother afterwards. | ||
| Kalali |
I would stay away from 10-40 in the summer months. | ||
| Jerseyguy |
Amsoil recommends 20-50 for V Twins and 10-40 for ILFs. | ||
| Dobieg2002 |
I found it strange that the manual recommends HD 20-50 but other brands 10-40 | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Whoops...I use the 20-50 Amsoil....don't think it is good to use a oil not recommended by the manufacturer. | ||
| Dobieg2002 |
Sorry had it wrong 15-50 in the section below, but 20-50 in the chart. So no worries you are all good. Refer to Recommended Engine Oils. Buell recommends using Screamin' Eagle® SYN3 Synthetic Motorcycle Lubricant when adding or changing oil. If SYN3 is not available and addition of motor oil is required, H-D 360 SAE 20W50 may be used. Although H-D 360 is compatible with SYN3, we suggest the mixture of the fluids be changed as soon as possible. If SYN3 or H-D 360 are not available, the final option would be to add a synthetic 15W-50 oil that meets SG and JASO MA specifications. We again suggest the mixture of the fluids be changed as soon as possible. At the first opportunity, see an authorized dealer to change back to 100 percent Harley-Davidson oil. (Message edited by dobieg2002 on May 21, 2009) | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
The two most ridiculous things I've ever read in a motorcycle owners manual is the above, and in a Sportster manual it said not to get the engine or transmission wet when washing. What is Harley's deal with this garbage? | ||
| Jaimec |
It used to say if you couldn't get genuine HD oil, to use DIESEL OIL. | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
It still does... in the XB manuals. | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
The more I think about this, the more it steams me. They recommend H-D branded semi-synthetic as the first choice, H-D branded mineral oil as second, then (heaven forbid) anyone else's full synthetic as a last resort- with the warning to have an authorized dealer change it back to H-D semi-syn as soon as possible. Absolutely A-1 genuine 100% complete and total CRAP. It is a fact that both of the H-D oils are outperformed by several other company's fully-synthetic oils. To top it off, H-D does not even manufacture the engine... maybe it should require Aprilia oil, or BMW oil, or any other name that Rotax stamps on the side case. I think it insults the intelligence of an informed buyer, and misleads an uninformed one. Shame on H-D for continuing to espouse these fallacies. | ||
| Jmr1283 |
the syn 3 oil is only semi synthetic? that blows. oh well ill just return the 4 quarts sitting on my kitchen floor.(i know why there. well if u saw my place ud understand. sporty 1200 heads on table, frame in living rooms. wheels on the stair way. tank on the frig.) oh and does anyone now how to fix a broken microwave. i really wanted to the k&n filter. shoot ill just take it apart and wiggle some wires first. oh and if u do know how to fix a microwave please pm me. i dont want to high jack the thread. | ||
| Gearhead571 |
They recommend diesel oil because it has some additives like zinc that have been drastically reduced in spark ignition certified automotive oils. It is recommended to use diesel oil in old cars with flat tappets. Something about the new formulations will cause the tappets to flatten the cam because they don't provide the shear protection without these additives. | ||
| Jersey_thunder |
take that crap out of your motor... jt | ||
| Ds_tiger |
UPDATE Bled the clutch Did my own personal mental (is this where it was or has it always been here and now I am sensetive to the issue?) "reset" on the clutch throw All is good - Thanks for the input and comments. Steve  | ||
| Bikejunky |
SYN3® is a full synthetic lubricant. It is the general practice in the industry that a "True Synthetic" is formulated with Group IV Polyaplhaolefin (PAO) basestocks. SYN3® is formulated with PAO basestocks and is a "True-Synthetic | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
Depends on your definition of "fully synthetic". By law a mineral oil base stock (Group I, II or III hydrocracked "dino" oil) mixed with Group IV (PAO) or V (ester) additives and be legally labeled a "full synthetic"in the United States only. If, like me, you only consider oils made with 100% synthetic lubricants (Group IV or V base stocks and additives) a "fully synthetic"- then SYN-3 is not fully synthetic. This is why several truly synthetic oils are labeled "100% Synthetic" instead of "Fully Synthetic" (as is allowed by the lax American standards) in order to differentiate themselves from the less honest. Here is an interesting bit of info I found on on a V-Rod forum (www.1130cc.com): SYN3 OIL or is it SIN3 Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) on the SYN-3. manufactured by Citgo Petroleum. Composition section: Component CAS # Concentration (1) 1-Decene Homopolymer, hydrogenated 68037-01-4 50% - 70% (2) Proprietary Ingredients Proprietary Mixture 1% - 10% (3) Polyisobutylene 9003-27-4 1% - 10% (4) Distillates, Petroleum, Hydrotreated Heavy Paraffinic 64742-54-7 0% - 20% (5) Distillates, Petroleum, Solvent-Refined Heavy Paraffinic 64741-88-4 0% - 20% (6) Zinc Alkyldithiophosphate 68649-42-3 0% - 2% Item (1) is a Group IV base oil. unable to locate the manufacturer of this base oil. Group IV and V base oils are the only "true" synthetics to the cognoscenti. Item (2) is probably their additive package (boron, calcium, magnesium, phosphorous, moly), but it is conceivable there could also be some "secret" synthetic oil, maybe an ester type oil, included in it. Item (3) is a fancy name for synthetic rubber (or elastomer) but this is probably considered to be "synthetic" oil as well. However, Item (4) is a Group II base oil, namely Conoco Pure Performance Base Oil, either 110N, 225N or 600N. no one is calling a Group II oil a synthetic. No information on the group number of Item (5) but it is Conoco's Cit-Con 650N Base Oil. presume that it is a Group I oil as it is solvent refined. most quality blenders are not using Group I oils in their premium motor oils and they are not considered synthetics. (the MSDS for the HD 360 20w50 oil. The major base oil constituents in it are the same ones as are listed in Items (4) & (5) above.) I think the Items (4) & (5) above, are to keep the old air-heads running without bearing skid and gasket leaks. Good for them, but not for us? Harley-Davidson talks about SYN3 in their advertising as: quote: Developed with a proprietary blend of three synthetic basestocks, ... Or not!?! If there are significant amounts of Group I and II oils in the SYN3, could the MoCo have stretched the definition of "synthetic" a bit further than Castrol did when changing Syntec from a PAO Group IV base to a hydrocracked Group III base? Exxon/Mobil (Mobil 1 synthetic) lost a lawsuit trying to go after a few oil companies for advertising blends as full synthetic. Mobil lost, and now the oil companies do not have to disclose on the label it contains Group I, II or III base stocks which are all petroleum based. So it is legal for Harley to market syn3 as a full synthetic, even though it is only 60% synthetic and the rest petroleum based. If you want fully synthetic. Buy Mobil 1, RedLine or Amsoil, although Amsoil always seamed a little to snake oil to me. I'm going with Mobil 1, or RedLine for sure now! His opinion of Amsoil being "snake oil" is a little odd- seeing as they were the first to manufacture a synthetic oil for automotive applications meeting API service requirements. Everyone has followed Amsoil ever since. The truth is out there... you just have to reach out and grab it. |
