| Author | Message | ||
     Prebs75 |
ok i have the 02 clone with different exhaust and intake, what is the next step, and the best bang for the buck , been looking at some cam kits,etc, i ve seen big bore kits???? looking for more power but still good drivability and reliabilty , carb options with stock motor?? | ||
| Brinnutz |
Prebs, for questions like these, you'll get most answers in the Old School thread...The M2 area isn't as active. I typically post my threads there for more visibility. | ||
| Aesquire |
The stock carb, properly jetted is more than enough for the stock engine. http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm some good tips. I personally think the CV40 is pretty good. Check the Knowledge vault here for jetting tips and performance results with different engine mods. The Mikuni is more easily adjusted, but does not compensate for altitude, ( the stock CV40 does ) so if you ride to the mountains, you will want to carry a different main jet for putting around Denver. ( not really an issue in MN ) I doubt you'd notice any performance difference between the 2 carbs if both are jetted right. Big bore kits range from a simple bolt on 1250cc to a monster 88ci. I think anything but the 1250 requires case machining, so consider a 80+ big bore as part of a complete package. I mean, as long as you have the cases apart, have the crank checked, and all the rest of the speed shop jazz. The stock M2 cam is the same as the Sportster. Real thick torque, and pulls good from 3k rpm up. The easiest quick power is the X1/S3 cam which has less grunt down low, but more power on top. Other cams can give even more power, but then you have to get the cam chests relieved, rocker boxes clearanced, etc.etc. Buells already have big ports & valves compared to a Sportster, and proper head porting cam flow even better...or screw things up bad if the port guy isn't experienced in Buells. There are some genius porters out there, check the Knowledge vault. In short, anything you do that really makes more power, means it flows more fuel/air, and proper jetting is a must. A dyno with a fuel/air sensor will let your tuner sort out the jetting for best performance without melting stuff ( lean mixtures can melt pistons, fast! ) Also, it's best to have a holistic approach to power mods. Consider, if you want to put in big cams, and have to take the heads & cases to be modified to fit, why not do all the mods that work with that level of disassembly, instead of doing it twice? Or it's a bit of a waste to have the cases split for a big bore kit & not run a cam that will take advantage? ( and will need case machining to work...the things already apart & in the machine shop ) Experts will tell you that you work on the next bottleneck to power, so just one thing is usually not the right thing to do. IMHO, the cheapest power mod for YOU may be X1 cams, and a proper jetting job tuned by a good Dyno man. That should give you about 10 more ponys, with the only drawback being the change in torque.... but you might like the bigger hit at higher rpms. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/243216.html?1165086811 http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/11076.html?1114721919 etc. etc. | ||
| Brinnutz |
More power with the .536's right? They're drop-ins as well. | ||
| Texastechx1 |
i understood that the 536's are only drop ins with better springs (better than stock and thunderstorm heads... supposidly will work will XB heads)... am i right? | ||
| Brinnutz |
goog call! Forgot you need stronger springs.. | ||
| Captainkirk |
N8's require no other mods and are true drop-ins. More duration than X1/S3 cams (N4's) and make one HELL of a difference. | ||
| Prebs75 |
so does this 1250 kit come with everything you need, or what does it come with??? any idea on price?? does it require boring??? | ||
| Aesquire |
Ah! a 1250 "kit" should come with jugs, pistons & rings, etc. for a bolt on install. No machining should be needed. As to how much? you also have which one? There are a few different brands and I'm sure others will comment on the best. I'd suggest looking up some of the sponsors here at Badweb. or "google" "1250 buell". | ||
| Brinnutz |
You have to ask yourself, do you know what you're doing? Or have the confidence to tear you're running motor apart if you want to do the 1250 kit. I say, leave it for now and ride the damn thing. LOL!!! I chose to do a 1250 kit. But you're going to have to research your ass off to figured out which kit you would like to do. Iron-Lined aluminum or the Nik-a-Sil cylinders (I chose the latter). Then you have to say, oh, do I want headwork while the heads are off, or do I want to go with XB heads and a new motor mount? So, ride it, tear it down this winter and figure it out. | ||
| Prebs75 |
http://www.mt-llc.com/rpStore/product_info.php?pro ducts_id=72 something like this??? | ||
| Serpa |
New cylinders and pistons for 50 extra CCs? How much power do they make vs. a similarly equipped stock displacement motor? I'm guessing not too terrible much, but I could be wrong. The 88" kits require more work to install, but you're picking up 200cc. The only problem I can see, is if the Buell cases are as thin as the older Sportster cases after you bore them. I don't recall ever breaking the cases on a Sportster, but you do have to bore into the center case stud. Man..... a well built 88 incher runs sooo sweet, even mildly tuned.  (Message edited by serpa on May 13, 2009) | ||
| 46champ |
IMOP the 1250 kit is cost effective for a 883 Sportster conversion I doubt it would be cost effective on a 1200. The cases get mighty thin when bored for an 88" kit some people have had cylinder base oil leaks. I have not but it's a race bike it doesn't stay together long enough to leak. | ||
| Serpa |
Does anyone offer an o-ring type base seal? Boring the cases with a step would be easy. |
