| Author | Message | ||
     Flxmanlethal |
Has anyone had a bearing spin inside their rear wheel on there X1?......X1's they have three bearings inside the rear wheel two of them are on the right side and then there's one on the left side...I have a spun bearing in the right outer I wonder if anyone had the rear wheel off and notice if that spacer that is used on the right side has some kind of pocket so the inner race can spin freely, SEE! I'm suspecting this might be my culprit my spacer is flat on both sides so i can't see how the inner race would spin freely. | ||
| Jramsey |
UNCommon problem caused by seized up bearings. Al spacers (external and internal) should draw up tight on the inner races only when the axle is tightened. (Message edited by Blake on April 17, 2009) | ||
| Flxmanlethal |
It's not a seized up problem. | ||
| Jramsey |
If it hasn't seized up at one time or another then the drive belt has been adjusted way to tight. Bearing don't spin and get loose in their bores with normal use. Do you have PM wheels? (Message edited by jramsey on April 17, 2009) | ||
| Micromachine |
the belt could have been to tight, my s1 had this happen so i bought two larger o.d. bearings with the same size i.d.( the two on the pulley side) then had the wheel machined out to fit. cost me about 110$ | ||
| Flxmanlethal |
I lift the rear wheel off the ground (hanging) and make my belt adjustment per shop manual I EVEN brought the tension tool too.....No PM wheels (Message edited by flxmanlethal on April 17, 2009) | ||
| V74 |
i had this happen on my 99 M2,8500 miles,belt was NEVER to tight,i knew about belt adjustment for buells when i bought the bike new in 1999, had the wheel bored and a steel sleeve pressed in,so far so good, | ||
| Cyclonemduece |
IMO you need to run the belt more loose than the FSM says you should. | ||
| Oldog |
FLX : there was a discussion of a loctite product that could fill a gap in a bearing fit, off hand I forget what the number was check the LOCTITE site look for bearing locker / keyseat locker IIRC I hope that you have not had a PM wheel get wrecked with the last remaining ones being sold now its sad that they will soon truly no longer be available =( on the bright side bearing bores can be welded up and re bored by a COMPETENT machine shop. | ||
| Flxmanlethal |
I found that loctite 660 is made for such a situation just ordered some SEE what happens. | ||
| Sportyeric |
A wheel repair specialty shop here said that they wouldn't weld up the bore for fear of liability by messing with the temper of the hub. The bearing shop that I asked at said that any bearing with a larger outside diameter would have a larger width as well. So my remaining solution would be to steel sleeve it. (Or buy another on eBay, which is what I have done. Saving the repair program for later.) | ||
| Sparky |
If you need a wheel shop that can bore out and sleeve a PM wheel, PM me (no pun intended). I took my 96 S1's PM wheel with a spinning outer bearing to a prominent SoCal MC wheel/tire shop and they did an excellent job. The S1 is now set for another 94000 miles! | ||
| Buellistic |
BUELLers: On the BWB it has been posted the how to properly adjust your DRIVE BELT ... If you want me to send you your own personal copy, e-mail me so "i" can get your e-mail address and it is yours ... Ljenne73c@verizon.net MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU !!! | ||
| Sportyeric |
Thanks Sparky. I may take you up on that but I'll do my homework more around here first. Not a high priority now that I've got the replacement wheel. | ||
| Easy_rider |
I remember the Loctite was green, but don't remember the number. The machine shop that put a sleeve on one side of my PM suggested it once we found that there was a little play on the "single" side. I dig for the shop's number if you need it. PM me in case I don't make it back to this thread for a day or two. | ||
| V74 |
i was told by the repair shop not to use loctite as it would be a temporary fix only,my repair cost £50 and they installed the new bearings for me,buells produce a lot of torque that hammers the bearings till they move in their housing, | ||
| Buellistic |
BUELLers: Some times the bearing problems are a tough fix, "BUT" can be corrected ... There are plenty of those out there that have or going to have these bearing problems ... My 2 cent contribution is ways to fix the "PROBLEM" before it can happen ... BEARING PROBLEM PREVENTION: Do not over tighten the axle nut as it compresses the soft metal spacer between the wheel bearings ... This very important on "BLAST" wheel bearings ... There are "TORQUE SPEC's.", use them ... Improper adjustment on DRIVE BELT ... The FSM is "WRONG" as the number of wheel and bearing failures are proof of this ... It is "BUELLschitte" mentality to believe that you can not re-grease these so called sealed bearings ... The seal is basically a dust seal to keep big piece's of dust/dirt out of the bearings ... If you put too much water pressure on these seals they will allow water to get into the bearings ... "i" re-grease my wheel bearings, adjust my DRIVE BELT correctly and at 107,418.4 miles as of the last ride am still running the OEM wheel bearings that came in the original OEM wheels ... MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU !!! (Message edited by buellistic on April 18, 2009) | ||
| Hoser |
My 96 S1 came with PM wheels , ran it like that for quite some time , replaced the bearings as per factory recommendations at the specified intervals. The rear -right-outer bearing was found to be loose in it's bore a few years ago. I was sad , the Pm wheels were removed and my spare marchesini wheels went on . The PM's are under my work bench in the garage now. I'll probably sell them eventually , there are brand new tires still on them ( even more reason to be sad ). |
