| Author | Message | ||
     M33ufo |
The clutch biting point seems very high on my new 1125R, right at the end of its travel. Is there any adjustment? | ||
| Endoman33 |
not that I have been able to find | ||
| Ccryder |
No adjustment. You may want to strap the lever to the bar overnight to see if it may bleed a little. It won't hurt and, it might help. I use a velcro strap but a bungee cord will also work. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
I used to not like having the clutch engage at the end of travel, but have since come to like the ability to quick shift with just a flick of the clutch lever. | ||
| Doctorneon |
I brought in the lever and it feels allot better, I did this by removing the rod that the lever presses on and ground off alittle of its length, its hard to get the rubber boot back over the rod but it will go. Grind off the end that goes in the lever pivot. | ||
| Steeltech |
The clutch is hydraulic. If you are familiar with a cable design this may set you off as extra slack is not necessary. As long as you are not having clutch problems you are fine based on your description. If feel is an issue, try adjusting the lever to where it feels like a natural 'bite' point using the knob marked 1-5 on the lever. I believe mine is set at 3. I would definitely try adjusting that before 'grinding' part of the M/C. In fact, I don't think I would advise a grinding tactic at all, no offense Doc. ST (Message edited by SteelTech on April 11, 2009) | ||
| M33ufo |
Thanks for the response. I'm kind of happy knowing that there doesn't appear to be a problem with my specific bike. It probably just needs a bit of getting used to, the clutch doesn't appear to be at all progressive and comes in right at the end of travel. I'll have a fiddle with the span adjustment as suggested to find the most comfortable option. ta. | ||
| Carbonbigfoot |
M33, did you come off an XB? The clutch engagement on my CR took me a month to get used to. I had my Lightning adjusted where it engaged right close to the grip. Even adjusted all the way in, it felt weird for me. All better now! But I kinda am intrigued by the gringing a bit off thing. I'll kick that around. R | ||
| M33ufo |
I did have an XB many bikes ago but my last two bikes were both BMW's, a R1200GSA and a K1200S. I've just come back from a ride and the span adjustment didn't make it better or worse - the bite point was still right at the end of the levers travel. I've now kind of worked it out though. Let the clutch out until the revs start to rise (must be an engine management thing?), this is just before the clutch engages. So I keep it on the higher rev point and then let it out fully quite quickly when I want to pull away. Not a very nice clutch but with another few rides I'll probably be used to it. | ||
| Doctorneon |
The reason I resorted to grinding is that I had mine on the closest setting and it was still to far from the bar, and I have good sized hands. This was the first time I ever had this problem with one of my bikes. | ||
| M33ufo |
I posed the same question on the UK Buell site and have been told it's related to the clutch cover problem..... "The problem will be the seals on the clutch slave piston, these are known to weep and cause problems with gear change etc. Your bike must still be under warranty, so ask your dealer to check it out, and look under the end cap on the clutch cover to see if it's wet with dot 4 fluid. If so, best they replace the seals and bleed the system through. This will correct the problem.......until the seals weeps again If they have no seals, they just bleed it while they are waiting for the seals to come in, that will at least improve the clutch operation for you in the short term. This is known problem with the 1125 clutch, even with the 09 clutch cover upgrade as it uses the same seals, with the 09 cover it just takes longer for the fluid to find its way out of the tell tail hole in the end cap" Makes sense I guess. Don't know why I didn't think of it before. I'll be sure and mention it at the 600 mile service. | ||
| Steeltech |
I wish I could ride your bike to see the issue. I believe the clutch issue you mention sometimes has a visible clutch fluid leak. Inspect the clutch cover for a clutch fluid leak and view the clutch fluid inspection window to see the level. I still think the fact that it engages at the end of its travel is normal, but I have not seen one of the bike affected by this clutch warranty. I have heard of them, but no first hand experience. Hope it gets sorted out for ya. ST | ||
| Ccryder |
This has been discussed before. Many riders have come from cable actuated clutch's. There is a major difference in feel between hydraulic and cable actuated clutch systems. My Honda ST1300 and 1125rt feel about the same and the friction point is very similar. Bottom line, you will get used to it in time. The adjustable lever will help in the span of the clutch lever but will not change the friction point. Later Neil S. | ||
| Crowley |
M33ufo, I know that you were told this by a Dealer, in the UK but aftwer seeing how my clutch release mechanism works (I'm on my 4th set of seals and they're leaking again!) it really doesn't make any sense to me at all. I notice the reason why, wasn't given in any detail. Whether or not my clutch is leaking badly or is on a fresh set of seals, the lever bite point remains constant, it is different to my other cable operated Buell clutches though. I think you just need to get used to it. It's excellent for quick gear changes. | ||
| Dmanchild |
little off the main topic but still on the clutch, which I find the same thing happening on my bike. When you pull the clutch in and put the bike in gear, either first or second (with the bike not running) still holding the clutch, does it roll freely like it is in neutral or does it feel like the clutch isn't even pulled in? just curious- thanks | ||
| Marcodesade |
Yeah, I do notice a little resistance --- and if I start it in first (with clutch disengaged of course), it pulls forward a little. |
