| Author | Message | ||
     Oldnotbold |
Okay, I did the 10,000 mile change pimary/transmission oil (M1 4T). When I re-installed the clutch cover (book says tighten to 84-108 in-lbs), the lower front stripped at about 85 in-lbs. What should I do? I know that some have used helicoils, but I'm afraid to use them (especially if not removing the primary housing) because of the tang that needs to be broken off. How about Time-Serts? If I need to pull the primary, I assume that I should do all 5 of the threads (3 clutch cover and 2 inspection cover)? TIA, Dennis | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
The primary cover isn't really rocket science. I would suggest just taking it off to be positive that there's nothing released into the tranny from cutting the threads. | ||
| Lastcyclone |
I had a Heli-coil on the same place with no issues. If done right, nothing is left behind. The cover can be easily removed if needed. Aside from replacing the entire part it is a good fix and not much cost. That is another questionable torque value that some have learned the hard way. | ||
| Barker |
+1 Helicoil. I did mine with the cover on. stronger than the way it came from the factory. | ||
| Xbimmer |
That is another questionable torque value that some have learned the hard way. I learned the hard way that the dealer used questionable torque value during my 5K service (and last, for those #@!&^). For 50K I've just been snugging the lower right screw with a dab of the Permatex sealer on the threads and it's worked fine. However this past week I changed my trans oil and when I removed that screw the remaining threads from the case came out with it, so it's Helicoil time I guess. | ||
| Oldnotbold |
I wonder if mine was damaged when the dealer did the 1,000 mile service. I didn't come close to the 108 in-lbs specified in the manual.
I have researched both the HeliCoil and the Time-Sert, and fell that the Time-Sert is superior but more expensive. I finally found the 1/4 20 kit (with 5 inserts) for $47.00 at Wholesale Tool Company and ordered a kit last night. I'll let you know what I think. Dennis | ||
| Jlnance |
Helicoil it. I've had to do one, I belive m2nc had to do 2, and then did the 3rd for good measure. It's easy to strip those screws. What are you worried about wrt the tang? The screw holes do not go all the way through. It isn't going to fall into the transmission. I don't think I even bothered to break it off when I put mine on. Make a guard for your drillbit so you don't end up drilling deeper than you need to go. You don't want to extend the hole. | ||
| Teeps |
In a pinch? Here's an old lawn mower engine trick. Ovalize the the threaded end of the screw. You want it about .060" (total) wider than the original diameter. Then screw it back in; the ovalized screw will cut into the aluminum and make it's own threads. This repair, when done right (such as it is) can achieve sufficient clamping as the original screw. | ||
| Ulyscol |
I also learned the hard way. Helicoils worked fine for me. Installed with the cover in place. Just take your time and block off the opening so no chips can get into the primary. If I recall it was a blind hole so the tang can stay in place. |
