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Zacks
| Posted on Monday, March 23, 2009 - 04:12 pm: |
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I'll ignore the cost/benefit debate over the factory heated grips vs aftermarket. For *me*, the choice was to use the stock switch pod and grips. But, I have a 2004 which doesn't have the factory plug installed. I've only minimally looked into this so far (no removal of the front fairing etc) So, I'm looking for an '05 or later schematic to answer: 1. what's the hot lead wire color/tap? 2. is there a relay in the circuit? It looks like there is a spare relay position under the cover. Left to my own devices, I'd find a switched lead, figure out where to get the grip power from and feed the grips from a relay - assuming it would fit in the factory block. But, I figure Buell has it all down already since they're now coming as stock. And that's really the look I was going for anyway. Any help is appreciated. |
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Petebueller
| Posted on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 - 08:50 am: |
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I have a positive accessories wire (through a fuse) running up to the front of my bike. I run the headlights through relays and tap the power for the heated grips from the second output of the low beam relay. This is easy since low beam is always on with the ignition. I don't think that it is easy to tap into the existing relays, and you get more out of your lights if you run them through relays. The relays fit neatly into the webbing of the faring support bracket. You can see it in the picture.
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Sparky
| Posted on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 - 12:39 pm: |
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That is a very good use of otherwise wasted space. It meets one of Buell's design strategies of making one component do more than one job. You should get a Pegasus Award for that idea or, at least, a gold star! |
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Petebueller
| Posted on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 - 04:04 pm: |
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I've already got a couple of gold stars. I'd rather some money this time.![: )](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/happy.gif) |
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Zacks
| Posted on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 - 07:57 pm: |
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I was thinking of using one of the spare fuses in the block. Also wondering if that was really a spare relay base under the relay cover. Would make it appear very factory. I like your location too. Was wondering why you say you get more out of your lights this way. Also, what did you use for connectors? Looks like your basic insulated crimp-ons? |
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Petebueller
| Posted on Wednesday, March 25, 2009 - 07:18 am: |
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I've got an in-line fuse. I haven't tried using the spare fuse positions, though I guess it can be done. There may be a limit on the thickness of the wires that can fit. I haven't looked. There is space for one extra relay in the box. I needed two so that's why mine are like that. The wires going to the Firebolt headlights are thin. On bikes that are a few years old you can see the insulation on the headlight wires is often hardened and brittle. This is from heat generated by the resistance of the wires. When they are thin they have more resistance and there is a greater than insignificant voltage drop. You also have resistance through the ignition switch and then the high / low switch. The bottom line is that you have reduced voltage getting to the lamps so they are dimmer. The idea of the relay is that you run a thick power wire to the relay, and then on to the headlight. The wire that was used to power the headlight is now used to switch the relay. You can buy power harnesses for some bikes which are basically running relays from the switches. Relays with thick wiring makes a bigger difference to the brightness of headlights than some realise. The H3 bulbs in the Firebolts have a single wire and are earthed through the housing. It is a bit of a pain to get to the earth wire but it is worth changing to a thicker one also, even though being shorter is is less critical than the positive. Once you have installed heavy duty power to the front of the bike, you can run your power socket off the thick wire from the battery or switch it through the low beam relay. In the picture you can see the one I have fitted on the clutch side. You could also slip it underneath. If you are going to use one for heated grips you might want install a second for phone, MP3, GPS. The heaters draw more than a bulb, so it is not good to tack into existing wiring. The connectors are just crimp on. As good as OEM IMO. |
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Zacks
| Posted on Wednesday, March 25, 2009 - 10:05 pm: |
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Thanks for the ideas and help Pete. I'll dig into this project when I get back from Spring Training and really be itching for a ride. Maybe the muffler will be back from Jet Hot by then too. |
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