| Author | Message | ||
     Ulyscol |
Tonight after pulling my front rim off for a tire change I popped the seals out of my wheel bearings to check things out. The brake side bearing had a nice coating of blue grease while the other side was almost bone dry. The side that is dry is still in good shape visually. No corrosion or debris, and it still looks to have a thin film of oil. So I decided to do some research before repacking because I have had poor results with mixing greases before. According to the NTN website (my bearings are NTN 6005LU) the most likely grease that comes in these bearings is Mobil Polyrex EM. So after some more surfing I found Grainger carries this grease for $5 a tube. I ordered some and will post further details when it comes in. | ||
| Xbimmer |
55K on my original NTN's. When I started regreasing them 30K ago after Electraglider_1997's convincing I found the same thing, IIRC. Don't remember which end had what but there was green grease or blue grease in the bearings, different front and rear. I also remember that all four had different amounts of grease contained. Kind of annoyed me at the time considering all the hubbub going on with failing Uly wheel bearings, for such pricey units I would expect better consistency. I've been using Lucas Red'n'Tacky grease for my bearings and anything else I want to stay greased with use, the stuff is tenacious. So far so good, but I have a new set of Buell's "B" series KBC wheel bearings to install, waiting for me to piece together an effective R&R toolset:   | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
55 grand on originals. Impressive. Did they finally fail or are you just preempting? | ||
| Xbimmer |
55 grand on originals. Impressive. Did they finally fail or are you just preempting? Preempting. With all the seal R&R's they've become less seal-like, and less pliable with age. Still felt smooth last check. | ||
| Jphish |
Xbimmer - I think your resolution is hopefully the right one. I will be following in your footsteps. Going to have the dealer do it since they need to change my warped front rotor and belt under warranty anyway. Presumably I can get my completely rusted muffler replaced as well. As for the R&R tools - I know some have purchased the Harbor freight set for about $35 - don't know how well it worked though. j | ||
| Ulyscol |
Well the grease I ordered is Polyrex EM by Mobil. It matches the grease in the NTN wheel bearings perfectly even down to the fowl smell (urea!!!). I am going to use this to repack my current dry bearing/bearings. Anyone brave enough to pop the seals out of your new KBC bearings I would be interested to know how the grease looks inside them. I would be willing to bet that it is more of a marine quality grease than the Polyrex EM. | ||
| Johnboy777 |
With all due respect, why re-install the same grease that has been failing in the NTN wheel bearings ... perhaps the grease is all or part of the problem. I would want to eliminate, at lease that variable from the equation. There must be a better grease out there. . | ||
| Ulyscol |
Thats what I am trying to find out  | ||
| Ulyscol |
I finally received the call back from Mobil Tech support. Now let me clarify and let everyone know I didn't do ANY scientific research here. This was purely done using information found off the web. Fact- NTN website states the standard grease in off the shelf bearings is Mobil Polyrex EM Fact- Mobil tech support claims Polyrex EM is a standard electric motor bearing grease and should not be used in wheel bearing applications Conclusion- Anyone want to buy a brand new tube of Mobil Polyrex EM  | ||
| Jphish |
Ulyscol - You may have cleared up the long saga/mystery of failed bearings! Is NTN really that unaware as not to know 'EM' likely stands for Electric Motor ?? I predict a major 'run' on KBC replacements. Even IF folks wanted to clean out & replace the old grease in a set of NTNs - damage may already have occured that wouldnt necessarily be apparent. WWED - What Would Eric Do - with this info ?? Just wonderin. j | ||
| Johnboy777 |
""What Would Eric Do - with this info ?? Just wonderin."" They've already done everything they are going to do. They changed bearings, and moved on....quietly, that is. EDIT: Someone alraedy said it here, somewhere - we need to find the best marine grade wheel bearing grease on the planet, and use it. . (Message edited by johnboy777 on March 11, 2009) | ||
| Mnrider |
 That Motorcraft grease is a Lithium complex I've used in snowmobile suspensions and bearings for years and I use it on everything from auto to bicycle wheel bearings and it stays soft to at least -40F. That synthetic lithium complex I bought last summer just to look at it,its blue,I only like black grease. | ||
| Methed |
FWIW, I have used Lucas Oil Treatment to lube drive chains and exposed bearings on a couple of bikes. Quiets that can-of-bbs-tumbling-down-the-highway sound, bonds well to the metal, and does a good job of, umm, penetrating. </toungeincheek> The Lucas stuff is pretty amazing. Saved me from replacing the engine on my rattlin' CBR. Woulda rebuilt it correctly, but I could just robbed a Civic for a new engine just as easily. Who mentioned the idea of tapping a zirc fitting on the hub and filling it with grease? Have you tried it/have pics? Sounds clever--reminds me of how the lower units on old outboard boat motors stay lubed... Not watertight, just a little more pressu.re inside than out | ||
| Mnrider |
Methed did I catch that right,you're buying Ftbstd's old bike,are you riding it up here. | ||
| Methed |
Test riding it on Saturday, and if the thing doesn't spontaneously burst into flames or start shooting parts up out of the airbox, I'm buying it. And yeah, I'm riding it back, but not for about four more weeks. I'm stuck down here in Atlanta for work, but I guess it beats the -25 it was back home this morning. 80 Degrees does take some getting used to tho.  Should be nicer/warmer/dryer/less salty in a month. Ahem, sorry for pirating the thread. Back on topic... | ||
| Skinstains |
I use LPS THERMO-PLEX AQUA in everything that needs grease and some things that don't. | ||
| Ronmold |
Series 2000 Synthetic Racing grease by Amsoil is all I'll ever use for wheel bearings. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
I've been wondering why boat trailer grease can't be used. It's more water friendly, I think.  | ||
| Etennuly |
I am doing the experiment with the grease filled hub. I just drilled a hole and tapped it for a grease fitting. Pumped it full of marine grease(the kind used for boat fittings that stay under water). I used to do this on my Honda ATC 200X and 350X's. With all of the traction they would get with those wide grippy tires, and the massive torque loads from the 3.5foot long live axle, I could toast a set of bearings in a day. They were a real PITA to change to just smoke the next set. So I drilled and tapped the hub and filled it up. I pumped in a little more before a ride and right after. Many times after deep water crossings when pumping grease in water would bubble out. I never had to replace the bearings again after I set it up the first time. I was quite pleased after a 1280 mile high speed run to Daytona and back, that I did not have any mess on the back of the bike from escaping grease. I plan to give it a shot of grease when I change tires and will probably do it when ever I do oil changes. It did take four tubes of grease to fill the hub initially. My new bearings are the red seal ones. The black ones were not immediately available when I got mine. | ||
| Methed |
>It did take four tubes of grease to fill >the hub initially. That's a lotta grease. | ||
| Etennuly |
On my boat it takes nearly a full tube to lube the gimbal bearing and OD pivots. | ||
| Dentguy |
When choosing a grease, I would suggest to not go by color as some are dyed for identification purposes. If it's for the wheel bearings, look for NLGI "GC" or NLGI "GC/LB". THe "GC" is for wheel bearings. The "LB" is for chassis. (Message edited by dentguy on March 15, 2009) | ||
| Buellhusker |
Are the bearings sealed both sides or just one side? And if they are sealed both sides and you chose to fill the hub with grease would you not remove the seal from the bearing on the inside? | ||
| Etennuly |
They are the same seal on the inside as with the outside. I left them in as I did on my three wheelers. Just a little residual pressure from a grease gun, and it will know where to go. If water can get in under static pressure, grease will push it out under slight compression. | ||
| Adamd |
Wow, Just read this thread... Can't believe that those Buell bearings were using the wrong grease.. I wonder if that's Buells blunder....? |
