| Author |
Message |
    
Jphish
| | Posted on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 10:29 am: | 
|
Good discussion - Synopsis: 1)change oil & filter more often during break in period to get rid of the damaging metal particles. 2) After that, change every 5K with synthetic, and you're good to go. 3) All synthetics are not created equal 4) Syn Oil doesnt really 'wear out', at the intervals were talking about - it gets contaminated (why the filter is so important) and volatilizes - volatility better controlled with synoil. 5) Cold starts - after sitting for awhile - is where most engine wear occurs. After warming up mechanical components should all be riding on thin film of oil - so virtually little actual metal contact should be taking place. 6) Even the modern Dino oils are pretty good - I use AMS syn for the cheap insurance it offers & don't worry if I'm on a ride and go over the 5K. 7) Oil analysis can be a good tool. I've used it on experimental basis to see if @ 15K miles, the AMS car oil was still doing its job. It was. For $22.50 I can just change the oil in the Uly @ 5K, and be done with it. 8) I change the Dino oil in the KLR @ about 3K because it's mostly dirt miles. The Uly seldom & the ST1300 never. The ST in dirt is like a pig on ice. Sun's up - no rain - time to go get the oil dirty. |
Strokizator
| | Posted on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 12:13 pm: |
|
Another thing to consider is that as it ages, oil becomes more acidic. To combat this, the oil companies intentionally make their oil with a higher pH so that by the end of its service life it is not too acidic.
The best oil is one that is approximately half way through its lifespan. Changing too often is not really a good thing. |
Arcticktm
| | Posted on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 01:21 pm: |
|
Just opinion, but I think changing the oil filter in between oil changes is unnecessary.
IIRC, even the Buell manual only specifies that an oil filter change is needed every other oil change (after the initial change).
It is a pretty big filter, so I would think you would need something pretty bad going on inside to really plug it up and trip the bypass.
I have seen the "every other" spec in some other vehicles (2 and 4 wheel) as well, though the specific ones escape me at the moment.
Could be that it was my current Honda truck.
It is so very rare to ever hear of a true oil induced engine problem these days, that I am pretty much running 5000 in all my vehicles just to make it easy to keep track.
The exception is the Honda truck, I wait for the maintenance light, which for me comes on about 6-7K miles (on conventional oil, not that the truck knows the difference).
I am running M1 15W-50 in all my bikes right now, because it is 1 oil I can buy that fits all 3 of their specs.
If I wanted to save some money, I would not hesitate to move to diesel oil Shell Rotella or Mobil Delvac.
Diesel oils seem a solid choice for bikes, especially those that use a common oil for engine/trans.
The diesel oils seem to have a more aggressive additive package (I believe to help deal with the soot and geartrains), and lack some of the energy conserving friction modifiers that cause trouble in some bikes clutches.
On top of that, diesel oils can be found at great prices. |
Lousirider
| | Posted on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 03:29 pm: |
|
Interesting post. I just changed my oil (4000miles) with M1 5w 30 synthetic. There are no Harley/Buell places around here, so I had to go auto oil. At 8G, should I track down Syn3, or stay with M1?
Also noticed oil leaks...I may start another thread about that, I don't want to hijack. |
Aeholton
| | Posted on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 03:38 pm: |
|
Every 2000-2500 miles with whatever Synthetic oil that is on sale. Change primary with Formula+ every other oil change. |
|
