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Fubar
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 17, 2009 - 07:54 pm: | 
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I just paid less than $50 for the front springs with free install at the 10K service. Definitely worth the price as part of the service. $200 for the service alone would be hard to swallow.
It really is like a different bike without as much dive. |
Pso
| | Posted on Thursday, March 19, 2009 - 02:44 pm: |
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Cadhopper: Yellow Wolf has a video of his runs on the dragon, on the goldwing board. It is impressive. He also is an ex racer. Most folks have no idea of how well the new goldwings handle. If I could have kept mine I sure would have. Truly a wolf in sheeps clothing, easy to wheelie and many pics of the same. But I still find my Uly more comfortable and can stay in the saddle much longer. |
Rekrab
| | Posted on Thursday, March 19, 2009 - 06:45 pm: |
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HD. changed the service on their bikes ( forks ) in the last year or so from 20k to 50k ? I don't think they started doing anything new with the forks, so that's the reason my Uly will wait till 50k. 08 with 30k , some dirt , lots of secondary roads, no leaks and still rides like new! |
Arcticktm
| | Posted on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 01:33 pm: |
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Like most fluid changes, seems to me the most important is the first. that gets all the "new parts" junk out, and is a great check on how things are getting along.
After that, I wouldn't worry much if you were an average street rider.
Even when I was enduro racing, fork oil was a once/season thing for me, and those forks went thru hell.
Don't underestimate how hard the fork oil works, though.
It is not the spring that does the wear, it is constantly getting pumped thru all those small orifices to control the damping.
ALso remember all those very delicate bushings in the forks. They like clean oil to keep a nice low-friction coating and keep you forks reacting like they should. Let you oil get too dirty or worn out and your bushings/seals can pay.
I think 10K is way more often then most would ever need after the first change.
I changed mine when I swapped to '07 springs after about 8K miles. I do not plan to change again any more frequently than every 2 years at the most. |
Jphish
| | Posted on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 02:54 pm: |
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Arctic - Good hypothesis & good thinkin. The Manual sez to use 'E' oils - does anyone know if this is 10wt ? Was going with synthetic AMS oil for change - 10wt is one of the options. Also: If all one wants to do is just change the oil - can it be done without all the special tools & without complete disassembly ? I was thinkin on just loosening the fork caps & getting my 400# weight lifter neighbor to come over and lift the bike and turn it upside down to drain. But seriously - can you just pump the old oil out and refill as per instructions - or complete disassembly required ? I like short cuts - they can result in whole new unexpected adventures. |
Etennuly
| | Posted on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 09:12 pm: |
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Short cuts are a sign of intelligence. If everything was done the long drawn out way life would be boring at the least.
I mentioned to a friend that I was thinking about pulling the caps and lifting the front of the bike to vertical. I could form a couple of funnels out of masking tape and PVC pipe.Once the bike is vertical, pump the forks to clear them of the old fluid. I would do this with a nearly empty fuel tank and while the oil and primary are drained. I have a tractor with a front end loader so it would be easy for me to do.
My question is, would the forks being beyond vertical by how ever many degrees of rake angle, being pumped by moving them in and out slowly, clear them of all of the old oil? It seems to me that it would. If so I could do this in less than fifteen minutes leaving me plenty of time to go get a six pack so that I might have a beer or two in honor of Jphish. |
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