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Bomber
| Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2004 - 12:34 pm: |
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Got the materials to make braided oil lines for my Y2K MaDeuece, and wondered if anyone has any tips for routing them in the stock poitions . . . .they seem to have been routed before the engine/swingarm were joined and installed in the frame . . . . if it's a royal pain in the patoot, any reason why alternate (read, easier) routings couldn't be used? thanks for your help |
Seeeu911
| Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2004 - 02:07 pm: |
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Hey John I 've never made lines up before, what is involved ? what tools and such ? |
Brentx1
| Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2004 - 02:15 pm: |
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John, I tried it without removing the swingarm, and after an hour of swearing I broke down and removed the swingarm. Be careful, I've heard horror stories of braided oil lines rubbing through at the point between engine and the drive belt. Just my 2 cents. |
Bomber
| Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2004 - 02:23 pm: |
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thanks, Brent, I've heard em too . . . .I'll be protecting them with the black plastic tubes the stockers run through . .. . . what's the size of the torx for the rear isolators (it's beginning to look like I should just lay back, think of England, and drop the swingarm) Seeu -- with one exception, all that is needed is the hose and clamps (purty one's if ya like ;-}) . . .the one exception is the 1/4 ID (I think) hose that connects to the front of the oil pump . . .. that has what looks to be an AN fitting on it . .. . .all that required is standard hand tools and the right parts . .. . part available through JEG'S or Summit . .. . I'll put together a peice on the project as I wrap it up |
Johnc
| Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2004 - 04:20 pm: |
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The torx heads on the isolator bolts take a # 60 bit. That size is also used on the brake caliper bolts on some GM vehicles so you might be able to borrow one if you know a GM technician, |
Bomber
| Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2004 - 04:30 pm: |
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Johnc -- thanks for the data, sir . . .. . last GM tek I knew switched sides to go work on Kenworths outa state . . .. #60 Torx is likely a mirror adjustor bolt on those bad boys . . .. |
Lake_bueller
| Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2004 - 05:02 pm: |
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Bomber...I have one that you can borrow. Otherwise they're only about $6 at Sears. I had to use an impact wrench to get they moving. Now how come when I asked that question about 3 weeks ago, nobody gave me an answer. It must be a conspiracy Anyone have a bearing race installation tool I can borrow? I need to install new races in my steering tube. |
Bomber
| Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2004 - 05:19 pm: |
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Mennis use a piece of all-thread, couple a nuts, and some BIG washers . . . . it's all I've ever used . . . . you didn't get an answer cuz yer so much smarter than me, and everyone knew you could figure it out on your own . . . .me, every one take pity, and showers me with data! |
Lake_bueller
| Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2004 - 05:43 pm: |
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Yep....went to Sears and bought the largest torx bit they had. Took it home and wha-la....it worked Now if I was so smart...I would have figured the thread, nut & washer thing! |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2004 - 05:44 pm: |
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A board with a hole for the threaded rod works too! |
Firemanjim
| Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2004 - 11:34 pm: |
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Go stick the race in the freezer for an hour or so, warm up the headstock with a hairdryer ,it will probably drop right in.I used to do all my Muncie 4 speed rebuilds like that. |
Easyflier
| Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2004 - 11:42 pm: |
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We used to do amazing things with huge machine bearings and CO2 fire extinguishers. |
Koz5150
| Posted on Wednesday, January 28, 2004 - 03:00 am: |
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You want to talk about big nuts.... How about the socket I had to buy to pull the front pully on my M2. Impact wrench also required! |
Road_thing
| Posted on Wednesday, January 28, 2004 - 09:41 am: |
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Seeeu911--check this out: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2456317696&categor y=35572 Although that auction is for a used set, I've seen several new sets of these Russell lines for S1's on ebay recently. I bought one pretty cheap and it mostly just dropped right on. r-t |
Bomber
| Posted on Wednesday, January 28, 2004 - 11:30 am: |
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Thang . . . . S1 Lines fit other models? also, and hints in fitment? edited by bomber on January 28, 2004 |
Road_thing
| Posted on Wednesday, January 28, 2004 - 12:48 pm: |
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Bomber: Not sure about what fits what. The set that I bought was "S1 Specific". They have cool compression fittings on the ends, no ugly hose clamps! The Russell lines bolted right up except for the fitting for the vent line at the tank. The fitting on the line mates to a hose barb from an oil pump, but the fitting on the tank was different. I just got an extra barb, then drilled the tank fitting and tapped it to accept the new barb. Took about ten minutes of work (after several hours of head-scratching). Routing: try to follow the stock routing. I used the stock sheathing under and behind the motor , too. Be careful that there's no slack in the lines such that the motion of the shock could grab them or damage them. I used lots of zip-ties. Then the simple oil-line replacement experienced some serious "mission creep!" Since I didn't want to pull the oil pump to attach the new lines, I took the opportunity to remove the cam cover for access to the pump. While I had the cam cover off I cut it down. That in turn led to replacement of the rocker box gaskets (which weren't leaking) since you need to pull the rockers to take the spring tension off the pushrods before you pull the cam cover. And, since I had the rocker boxes off anyway, I drilled the oil drainback holes and chamfered the holes for the umbrella valves. Before you button it all back up, take a hard look at the drive gear for the oil pump; mine looked OK, but some guys have reported expensive failures on this $10 component. Plan on a full day, unless you're a faster wrench than I am (which you probably are). Hope this helps! r-t
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Bomber
| Posted on Wednesday, January 28, 2004 - 12:53 pm: |
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Thang -- thanks for the tips, sir, I sppreciate them greatly . . .. . already cut down the cam cover, so that particular form of mission creep won't grab me! (boy, am I familiar with THAT term . . . . . "honest, honey, I only stopped in the garage for a cigarette . . .I have no idea how the engie wound up on the floor with new cams on the way!" as for being a faster wrench, not sure about that . . .. I'm pretty good at stuff I've done before (muscle memory serves nicely, sometimes), but on new stuff, I've learned to slow down alot . . . . save on replacement part purchaces, and on knuckle first aid . . . . . My daughter got me a christmas present . . .. little tin sign for the garage . . . . "Busted Knuckle Garage -- Repair and Despair under One Roof!" the kid knows her old man waaaayyyyy too well! |
Seeeu911
| Posted on Wednesday, January 28, 2004 - 11:50 pm: |
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Thanks Tom |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Thursday, January 29, 2004 - 02:56 pm: |
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Bomber, Where did she get the sign? I want one! |
Mikej
| Posted on Thursday, January 29, 2004 - 02:59 pm: |
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Is this the sign? http://www.bustedknucklegarage.com/about_us.htm
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Bomber
| Posted on Thursday, January 29, 2004 - 03:01 pm: |
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Mike . . . .. not real sure, but I would imagine through the California Car Cover Company (their catalog had it listed) . . .. Mike, right you are . . .. . . |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Thursday, January 29, 2004 - 03:03 pm: |
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Mike, That's got to be it! Thanks for finding it. Pretty decent prices on the tin signs too! |
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