| Author | Message | ||
     Reepicheep |
Werewulf... a few people have played with gearing, but generally by swapping a pulley. Court occasionally looks back fondly on an old "wheelie happy" 2nd gear ratio that was tamed down some time in 98 or 99 I think. Everyone that has the Baker 6 speed kit is very happy but much poorer. Thats about all that has come up here about your topic... feel free to throw it in there and let us know how it goes! | ||
| Cliffb |
How to measure primary adjustment?? The adjustment's easy but I've got a question concerning how to measure. Do you measure from the outside of the chain to the outside, inside to inside, or center to center as you move it up and down?? The manual seems to show outside to outside but I want to be sure as it makes a big difference in the adjustment. This may be a stupid question but I'm sometimes anal about this kind of stuff. Thanks Cliff | ||
| Mikej |
You measure the amount of travel, or in other words the amount of chain slack as measured over a vertical distance. Center to center is best but hard to eyeball, especially when trying to lift the chain while peeping into the porthole and measure from a distance and maintain a level eye position relative to the viewing angle. At least that's what I measure, the amount of travel, bottom droop to upper push distance traveled. I type too much so I'll stop.  | ||
| 1320 |
I adjust my travel to 3/8 cold...to help I center the chain by eyeball through the open end of a 3/8 wrench and lift the chain with a small screwdriver or my finger or?? until I get the adjustment as close as I want.. Whatever adjustment you are looking for you might try this with that size to see if it makes it easier... | ||
| Lee |
I'm about to upgrade to the new primary chain tensioner. Can anyone share in tips, tricks, snags or special tools needed? Or is it a pretty straight forward job? Thanks. | ||
| Reepicheep |
The metal primary cover gasket makes the job FAR easier, and much more likely to go well. After the first three or so heat cycles (read: rides), throw a torque wrench back on all the primary cover bolts and tighten em back down. You don't have to pull the exhaust to do the job, though it might be messier. If you are having trouble keeping the gasket in place while you use three hands lining everything up and lifting the chain over the new tensioner while replacing the cover, get some dowel rod, cut it into 4" sections, sharpen the ends of each section in a pencil sharpener. Put them through the holes in the gaskets, thread them securely into the primary holes, and put the primary cover right over them. Remove them 1 at a time while you replace them with the bolts. They hold the gasket in place. Or just use something like yamabond to glue the gasket in place while you put stuff together. It was a big deal with the paper gaskets, the metal ones (like the James) make the job a lot easier. | ||
| Hootowl |
What Bill said. The new gasket is rigid, and will allow you to install it without using 3 or 4 hands and an assortment of dowels. Big improvement over the original. | ||
| Lee |
Good stuff. Thanks fellas. Lee | ||
| Hootowl |
Oh, and you should replace the shift shaft seal while you're in there. Taking the chain case off has a tendency to damage it due to the splines on the shaft. Also, wrap a piece of electrical tape over the splines before you try to jam the new one back over those splines. It's a cheap part. | ||
| Ocbueller |
Lee, Tat at American Sport Bike sells some real nice stainless bolt kits to replace the stock primary cover bolts. Makes a real nice finishing touch on the job. Be sure to put the chain tensioner shoe in the proper direction(the direction that won't allow the shoe to walk off the adjuster.) SteveH | ||
| Stormbringer |
Excuse my ignorance. What is the problem with the Haden M6 tensioner? An aircraft engineer friend has one in his S1 and swears by it. I was thinking of fitting one to my '98 S3T and to my wife's 1200 Sportster. (That would be one each I mean!) Stormbringer | ||
| Tim |
Stormbringer, http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=3842&post=68758#POST6 8758 | ||
| Lee |
On swapping to the upgraded primary chain tensioner.....am I correct in assuming (oh boy) that you can do this without draining the primary? The only reasons are 1) I just changed my fluid with that expensive syn and 2) I've got the Force pipe and would have to take the whole damn thing off again! Thanks, Lee | ||
| Reepicheep |
You *can* do it without removing the primary drain plug (or exhaust). You *cannot* do it without draining the primary. When you remove the primary cover (necessary) all fluid (and the gasket) are gone forever (well, forever transferred to your garage floor). The new metal gasket makes the job pretty easy. edited by reepicheep on January 26, 2004 | ||
| Firemanjim |
Sure you can,just like on a dirtbike clutch job out riding--lay bike as far over as you can so all fluid drains away from cover,then remove. | ||
| 1320 |
What Jim said...lean over on the right side..preferably against something soft.. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Never thought of that. It would keep the primary chain up and out of the way while you put the primary cover (and tensioner) back on as well (instead of having to hold it up out of the way with your third hand while using the other two hands to line things up). | ||
| Tripp |
here's some pics of my tensioner replacement, i discovered it while replacing the shitty paper primary gasket that was leaking.       | ||
| Newfie_buell |
Some pictures of my Tensioner Replacement. I considered replacing after reading here on the board, the bike has 40,000km/25,000mi and I had very little adjustment left on it. So seeing there is 5 feet of snow on the ground its a good time to do this.       That is a computer hanging over my tool area with the S1 Manual on CD-Rom. Its got to be the BEST CD Rom I own - The computer is an old Celeron I retired a year or so ago and sort of sat in the basement. I was going to throw it out but found a new use for it. I am going to install a wireless network card in it as I have a wireless network running in the house. | ||
| Udholmdk |
where did you get the manual on CD-rom thank you Jan Udholm from denmark | ||
| Newfie_buell |
In the above the left adjuster is the new updated one and the right one is what came out. Despite the fact its well worn its not cracked, however the base plate was deflected downward so I guess it was only a matter of time. Can someone tell me if I should replace the primary chain judging from the above picture? | ||
| Mikej |
There's no real way to tell how worn the chain is from the pic. Best way is to measure "stretch", which is actually wear slop. I don't know what the current recommended limits are. Measure pin to pin on the chain, usually at least over a length of ten pins to make it easier to gauge the extra length/wear. How do the sprocket teeth look? How many miles on the bike now? If it's cheap and you want to replace it then no reason not too, except that the new chain will need fairly quick adjustments as it runs itself in. You might also want to have a look at your clutch plates while you have it opened up, and check the bolts and nuts holding your tranny in. And you might as well look over your stator and main seal while you're in there. Then you could just go ahead and pull the tranny and maybe tweak that or upgrade to a 6-speed. Then while you have the tranny out you could then split the engine cases and have your flywheels balanced and cleaned up a bit. And while in there you might as well install a scraper and clean up the oil flow check valves and channeling. And while you've got the heads off doing the bottom end work you could play with the upper end, valves, rockers, pushrods, cams, bearings, bushings, carb, intake, and, uh, I probably went overboard a bit. Sorry, but it's hard to tell from the pic if your primary chain needs replacing.  | ||
| Jrh |
Jan,i think you can download the manual at ukbeg.com or borgforum.de | ||
| Newfie_buell |
Geesh Mike, I knew you were thorough but ............ I am putting the new adjuster in, new steel gasket and vroom, vroom | ||
| Mikej |
I sometimes get carried away when spending other people's money.  Call it project migration.  | ||
| Blake |
S1 manual is available in the Knowledge Vault. Kinda hard to find; it's under the title of "Service Manual." | ||
| Ocbueller |
Newfie, Try pinching the chain together between the sprockets, then with the other hand see if you can lift the chain off of the teeth on the either sprocket. If your able to lift the chain easily it may be worn enough to merit replacement. It's probably fine, but like Mike said, while your in there. SteveH | ||
| Blake |
A friend of mine fitted a 530 O-ring chain in place of the big heavy OEM double row chain. He's a drag racer and tinkerer. Did this on a souped up Road Thing. | ||
| Road_thing |
Wow, I didn't even know I'd been souped up! Wait 'till I tell the wife!!! r-t | ||
| Blake |
You'd have to be if you'd indeed been ridden hard by some guy from Kilgore with a chain.  |
