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Cheddarheads4erik
Posted on Wednesday, March 04, 2009 - 11:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ANy good threads on removing swingarm hardware, etc. to lube and check everything over on late model S3s? TIA...
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Wednesday, March 04, 2009 - 07:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The manual is worth it's weight in gold for this job. If you do it without the manual, keep in mind that in order to remove the threaded rod from the swingarm, you have to have the pinch bolt on the left side tightened. Otherwise you're going to spin the bearing cup in position and get nowhere.

Also, if you remove the bearing dust caps, when reinstalling them only drive them in flush with the edge of the swingarm. There will be slack in the bearings that doesn't look right, but it will disappear later during assembly.

When reinstalling the threaded rod into the swingarm, initial torque is 7 lbs I think? That's normally too tight, you want to adjust the torque here as needed to acheive 3-3.75 lbs of resistance when lifting on the rear of the swingarm. As I learned yesterday, a fish scale works perfectly!
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Cheddarheads4erik
Posted on Wednesday, March 04, 2009 - 10:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Phillip, any insight on replacing the bearings? OEM, XB, or Timken?
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Wednesday, March 04, 2009 - 10:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've never replaced the bearings. I've only pulled the swingarm off a bike with 6600 miles - they felt perfectly smooth and the grease looked like brand new. I just washed them off and reinstalled with new grease. I've never heard of swingarm bearings being a common problem though.. OEM bearings should be fine.

The manual does tell you to replace the dust caps any time they are removed. I was careful removing mine and reinstalling them so decided to reuse the old ones. If I lived close to a Buell dealer I would have replaced them just for peace of mind.
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Cheddarheads4erik
Posted on Wednesday, March 04, 2009 - 10:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cool, thanks, I'm just guessing mine need replacement @ 30K miles as the rear end is real tight. Whoa, that don't sound good does it?
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Cheddarheads4erik
Posted on Thursday, March 05, 2009 - 11:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

One more question on tools; Jim's tools. Found them on E-bay,but is he selling tools to Buellers? What's the part # for the bearing tool in one of these threads. Duc?
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Bad_karma
Posted on Tuesday, March 10, 2009 - 01:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I replaced mine at just past 23,000 miles. Used the stock bearings. Only real sign of wear was in the race, bearing was still in good shape.
Joe
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