| Author | Message | ||
     Sleez |
thanks court, i have. | ||
| Sleez |
well, drama continues; couldn't find the touch up paint anywhere, HD net showed a few Vol Gray at dealers but only 1 Blazing Orange. i called and ordered the gray from buellgator in FL and called IN for the orange, but it's dedicated to a crash bike in their shop. hopefully i won't need it, looks like most of the frame and wheels are cleaning up pretty good. | ||
| Preybird1 |
Car quest has a paint scanner that is dead on and they can match it for like 5 bucks. | ||
| Sleez |
Preybird1; thanks. the nearest one is 1.5 hrs away. | ||
| Oldbiker |
Sleez.....give a holler to local auto paint supply dlrs. they usually can match paint good.....to these old eyes it kinda looks akin too the old chevy international orange Steve | ||
| Sleez |
steve, thanks, i'll probably give that a try. | ||
| Nevrenuf |
sleez, sorry but i just ran across this thread(haven't been the old school that much) but i do have some parts laying around from when my daughter got hit on the 02m2L(greay/orange of course)i should still have the old carb around. the only reason i don't use it in place of the micuni is the gas inlet tubing got boogered up. my numbers in the bran so give me a call. i'd be happy to help you out if i can. for obvious reasons of course.  | ||
| Sleez |
Nevrenuf: cool, thanks. just left you a message, no answer. | ||
| Blazin_buell |
Sleez, now I know why you were buggin' for the orange plug wires. Sorry I let you down, I coulda swore I still had those. Wow, you got a smokin' deal! And I thought I got something special but wait 'til you see it. I'll be starting a thread as soon as I get back into town. | ||
| Sleez |
Shane, thanks for checking for me. look forward to your thread. i have some more to add tomorrow. stay tuned. | ||
| Sleez |
saturday i went o my buddies auto repair shop to borrow some tools to take the muffler apart. tried drilling out the rivets, only two came out. used an air die grinder with a cut off wheel to remove the rest. just ground 'em flush, and tapped 'em in with a small punch. then i took the cut off wheel to the stub of an inlet that was left sticking into the muffler. my welder was just going to butt weld right to it, i'd rather slip the new piece in and weld around the inside AND outside. took about an hour to get the factory weld cut away enough to allow the stub to "pop" out. not too bad. today i just cleaned the end cap up and took a few minutes with the dremel to clean up the burrs on the inside of the muffler at the rivet holes. i should get my tubing pieces tomorrow, and take it all to the welder to weld it up. oh yeah, i have decided to NOT use a clamp on the slip joint from the collector to the muffler, i ordered some SS exhaust springs and will have the welder add some hooks to hold it together. the muffler disassembled, not a hint of packing remained!  the collector that needs some rework.  the rivet holes all deburred.  | ||
| Nevrenuf |
hope that new packing works good for ya lee. nothing worse than having to go back in and repacking it. | ||
| Sleez |
Nevrenuf; do you have doubts? what do you recommend? | ||
| Kalali |
The previous owner on my X1 had removed the packing and the baffle from the V&H SS2R thinking that it would help with power since it was much louder. Amazingly enough after putting the baffle and new packing in the bike sounds much nicer (not as loud) and has more pep. Specially down low. | ||
| Lovedabueller |
sleez, go to your local dirt bike shop and get some muffler packing. tightly roll wrap that insert like three or four times. and then use safety wire to hold it tight . slide back in and viola. thats what i did to my yz 450 f and it worked great. | ||
| Sleez |
Kalali; i know the vance and hines mufflers sound and work much better when properly packed. Lovedabueller; i already have packing that i got from a well known pipe/muffler manufacturer. it is ceramic and basalt. i assume you guys think this won't be adequate? i am confused??? thanks for the input. | ||
| Lovedabueller |
no i didnt know if you did or did not have it already. do your thug thizzle. what ever works for you is cool with me. | ||
| Sleez |
cool, how full should the muffler be? does it need to have every cubic millimeter of space filled with packing? ...or is 1 or 2 layers around the perf tube enough? should i just wrap around the perf tube until it's just big enough to squeeze in, and not worry about any extra nooks and crannies? yeah, i know, probably over thinking it, just want to do it right the first time. | ||
| Lovedabueller |
that stuff will burn off over time. especially if ridden for long periods of time. i would say to wrap it a good amount. the tighter the packing is the longer it will last. this is my experience. so yeah i would say to stuff that beast. | ||
| Jramsey |
More the layers the quieter/longer lasting. | ||
| Blazin_buell |
Sleez, I agree after learning the hard way,stuff the shit out of it! I've had to repack the D&D on the "25r" twice because I didn't have enough in there.The first time at the track and the second on the dyno. I think if you have any spare space for movement it'll try to escape especially when hard on the throttle. | ||
| Blks1l |
Blazin Buell you been posting a lot lately, you slow at work, or are you working like me? | ||
| Blazin_buell |
Doing a lot of home work on the 'puter lately. A lot of drama on the "25r" board and I have renewed interest in the tubers again and wanting to get a few things accomplished. | ||
| Nevrenuf |
i don't have doupts lee. i just thought you said something about some new kinda packing and i just hope it works out for ya. i'm lazy and don't want to go through the hassle if i can avoid it. | ||
| Sleez |
thanks all, so the consensus is pack it full! i'll wrap the packing that the muffler mfgr gave me around the perf tube, and get some more from a local dirtbike place and make sure all the nooks and crannies are stuffed. thanks. today i picked up some tools and emery cloth i needed to get the pipe polished up. picked up my clutch lever and some carb gaskets at the local HD dealer. i also picked up the rivets for the muffler and some SS rod to make the spring hooks out of. my tubing should be here today, i'll take it to the welder tomorrow. (Message edited by sleez on March 10, 2009) | ||
| F_skinner |
Sleez, thanks for posting this. I am about to do the same thing to my race muffler on the S2-T so I will be watching with interest. Frank | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Sleze, Make sure you use stainless pop rivets. Aluminum will not last long. Don't ask. Also if you leave the can empty with no packing, it will get pounded to pieces. The exhaust pulses are STRONG. I've seen the inner core broken into 6 or more chunks... Brad | ||
| Sleez |
Brad; thanks, yeah i got SS rivets. i plan on packing it as full as i can! | ||
| Kalali |
I got the replacement packing and the baffle directly from V&H and it essentially filled the entire empty space inside the can. | ||
| Sleez |
today i spent some time removing the exhaust studs. Al suggested i do this since the exhaust wasn't installed correctly, they might have been stressed. 3 of the 4 came out fairly easy, i had been soaking them in PB Blaster for a few days. i double nutted them and they turned right out with a ratchet. the 4th one was a bit tougher, it wouldn't budge, i had to heat the area with a propane torch 4 or 5 times, and turn the stud with the vice grips, i would get about one full turn before it would snug up again, then would have to reheat. luckily this one was the easiest to get to. the rear low. gladly all the threads in the head are in great condition. related question; when installing new studs, should they be loctited or anti-siezed? there seems to be logic to either solution. i also mounted some front signals and installed the new clutch lever and shift lever. i then attacked some more of the sludge build-up on the bottom of the engine and shock area. while i was cleaning it up, i found the wire to the oil sender was broken off, pulled out of the boot that goes on the sender. looks impossible to replace! any ideas? if i can't come up with a factory type fix, i'll just put a ring terminal on it and attach it with a nut. does anyone know the thread size by chance? (Message edited by sleez on March 12, 2009) |
