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Tginnh
| Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 07:44 am: |
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The service manual maintenance schedule says to change the brake fluid every 2 years. Is this overkill and really necessary? Especially for a bike that has low miles and is not driven hard? Well, not that hard. I'm pretty sure I've never changed the brake fluid in a single auto I've owned, nor have I heard of anyone doing this as a regular maintenance item. I'm sure this is a good idea, but... Anyone (everyone?) following this by-the-book maintenance item? Thanks. |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 08:33 am: |
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Yes, change the brake fluid. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air which will eventually corrode the internals of the master cylinders and brake cylinders. This corrosion can abrade the seals causing them to leak. The moisture in the fluid can also boil during hard braking which causes brake fade (i.e.- weak or NO brakes when you need them worst.) The need to do this has nothing to do with how hard or how often the bike has ridden. It's not a hard job- 15 minutes for front and rear (probably a little longer on your first try). (Message edited by Hughlysses on February 28, 2009) |
Ulyscol
| Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 08:58 am: |
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I change my brake fluid every spring. It is cheap and easy to do but probably not necessary to do it that often. |
Tginnh
| Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 08:59 am: |
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Hughlysses - Ok. Will do. Thanks. Hope you don't mind if I hijack my own thread and press you for a couple more questions. I am preparing for my 10k service. I have done the 1k and 5k myself, including TPS reset, primary chain adj., steering head check, etc. However, the fork oil change has me a bit concerned. I know this topic has been covered extensively and you have posted about it. I have spent the past 45 min. reviewing archives and have read some conflicting posts. Maybe you could clear up a couple of conflicting things I have read: a) Do the fork tubes need to be removed? b) The need to compress the spring? c) The need to measure the amount of oil replaced vs. the use of a measuring device (like a dipstick). I have changed fork oil on vintage British bikes I have owned (67 bonny and 68 BSA), but never on a modern bike. Obviously, those bikes were pretty straight forward: Remove caps Remove drain plugs Pump forks Replace drain plugs Refill with proper amount of oil (in oz or cc) Thanks for your help. |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 11:38 am: |
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Troy- The fork oil change isn't too bad. a) Yes. You need to remove the fork tubes because you have to invert them to dump out the old fluid as there are no drain plugs. b) You have to compress the spring but it's not that difficult- it's just awkward to do without a tool. There are several different tools that can be used for the work. I got my tools from Traxxion Dynamics (http://www.traxxion.com). Basically you can use a less expensive tool that requires you to have a buddy to help you, or a more expensive tool that allows one man to do it (sort of an elongated C-clamp). I'd send you the direct links but some sections of their page aren't working this morning. c) Yes, you need to measure the oil level as opposed to the quantity of oil added. Evidently measuring the oil level is a more accurate way to do the job than measuring the oil added. You can buy a tool for this too, but I just used a homemade dipstick as you suggest. |
Tginnh
| Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 12:30 pm: |
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Ah ha! I might have known the answer to a) if I would have taken a closer look at the forks. My fault for assuming. Is this common place for modern suspension - no drain plug? If so, why? Thanks for the concise feedback. |
Husky
| Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 01:59 pm: |
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I use 'High Temp Boat Trailer Wheel Bearing Grease' in all my trailers, motorcycles and cages. I started doing this back in the 70's and have never had a bearing failure. On the Buell's, just make sure you check them frequently because of the marginal protection the seals provide and never power wash the bearing area. The grease is blue, and 'Aluminum Based'; protecting the steel bearings from water induced corrosion. Husky |
Etennuly
| Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 06:34 pm: |
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Hey Husky, did you post that in the wrong thread or what? I was following up on what grease people put in their rear wheel bearings and a good one comes up here! I'm sorry. I didn't mean to offend! |
Froggy
| Posted on Sunday, March 01, 2009 - 12:25 am: |
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Another case of posting under the influence. Please put down the moonshine and back away from the keyboard |
Tootal
| Posted on Monday, March 02, 2009 - 05:55 pm: |
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Maybe he's talking about the grease he puts on the bleeder screws so they don't suck air when using a vacuum bleeder!? (Message edited by tootal on March 02, 2009) |
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