| Author | Message | ||
     Limitedx1 |
So last night i rebuilt my X1's front caliper and the rear, that was the easy part! well turns out i need a new front rotor, which one is the best? does the ebc pro lite get the job done or do i need the scalloped one? also i found this link to put the rear brake fluid resevior on the rear master cylinder, has anyone done this and can they explain how? http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/webshop/artikel.asp? guid=YXHFSC&aid=173&cid=196&s=&a=k also what kind of brake fluid do i need to use in a 2000 X1, dot 5 correct? and can anybody refer me to the brake bleeding threads so i can read the bad web way to do it! ive read something about putting the rear caliper up on the seat to bleed it correctly....? | ||
| Buellistic |
BUELLers: If you change the BRAKE FLUID in you master cylinder(s) every 6 months you will never have any caliper problems ... This also applies to your other vehicle's ... This is OLD SCHOOL !!! The hardest things on brake fluid are QUICK STOPS, Interstate Driving, and the fluid in the front brake master cylinder on a BUELL !!! | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
Scroll down a little on this thread.. these are the materials I use to reverse bleed the front brakes from the caliper back to the master cylinder. Not sure of the best method for rear brakes. I rarely use mine and have never worked on them. Cheap homemade brake bleeder | ||
| Skntpig |
I have the braking wave rotor. I went this way because I liked the looks. You can't go wrong with the EBC...it is a race rotor. americansportbike.com The new rear mount will be easy to install. Remove the res. Carefull with the fluid. Install the new mount. Cut the line to the right length and attach to mount. It is easiest to get air out using gravity. Air rises. You want the air to get out of the system and into the res. The rear is easy to remove the entire system and bleed it on a workbench. Make sure the caliper has something about the thickness of your rotor between the pads so you don't pop the pistons out. Put the caliper down and the res up. You might have luck shaking and tapping the caliper/lines to get air out too. After the initial bleeding and you're getting good pressure...Install system and do a few more final bleeds after a short ride. DON'T EVER SWITCH FROM DOT 5 TO DOT 3/4/5.1 OR VICE VERSA. DOT 5.1 IS NOT COMPATIBLE WITH DOT 5. | ||
| Limitedx1 |
The new rear mount will be easy to install. Remove the res. Carefull with the fluid. Install the new mount. Cut the line to the right length and attach to mount. so all i have to do is cut the resevior line short and pop the resevior back in it down by the master cylinder? is it a worth while mod? } | ||
| Akbuell |
The service manual on my X-1 calls for DOT4 only fluid. Look at the top on the master cyl. Should say DOT4. As mentioned above, do not mix fluid types. | ||
| Kalali |
DOT 4 for X1. Stay away from DOT 5. | ||
| Limitedx1 |
right now my calipers are off and my lines were left to drain into pans. so i guess my best best is to take the systems off the bike and do the hang on the wall method since they are bone dry. as i was rebuilding my front caliper i noticed how small the passage holes were from side to side, that looks like its going to be a pain to get that thing completely full of juice. but if its hanging i guess a little tapping could persuade the air out of the little passage holes...or i hope p.s. i just ordered a matching set of braking scalloped rotors!  its like xmas except i paid for it... my bill is WHAT? oh add on both caliper rebuilds, both master rebuilds, rotor bolts front and rear, fluid, pads. i put how much money into stopping? ok now make it go faster!!! | ||
| Eshardball |
For what its worth DOT 5.1 is a Glycol based fluid and is compatable with DOT 4 systems but has a higher wet boiling point. MOTUL makes a good product for those that may be interested | ||
| Eshardball |
You will love the wave rotor out front. I'm running sintered metal pads and the brake is a one finger affair now! | ||
| Preybird1 |
NO dot 5 Only 4, The best brake rotor is way to expensive to buy for street riding, there are to many rotor's out there i like composite but they are over $500. each. I have some ebc organic pads on my bike and they are the crappiest pads ever. If i ride 2up and ride aggressive they always smoke and fade out! The stock buell rotor is sh@# and i have buffed them out and also turned the rotor on a brake lathe and that stopped the shake for about 1 week they are JUNK! I am going to go with the scalloped rotor so they dissipate heat better and don,t warp up. | ||
| Wardan123 |
FYI- I had pulsing on my front rotor and assumed the rotor was warped. At Al of American Sport Bike's suggestion I swapped the pads out to Lindall Golds- NEVER another pulse. $50 to American Sport Bike for the pads may save you the expense of new rotors. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
Wardan, that's good to hear. I always had a little pulsing on my 2000X1. I replaced the pads, rebuilt the caliper, flushed the entire system.. nothing helped. Just put lyndall gold pads on the 2002. Can't wait to see how they work out! | ||
| Limitedx1 |
i believe i got double h pads for the front and back | ||
| Skntpig |
Lx1...I don't think the new bracket in the pic will really do anything for you other than look different. I don't really see the value but you might. I think it's just using the stock res and adding the mounting bracket but I could be wrong. You could get this. Sorry not a sponsor. http://www.pjsparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?c Path=267_46&products_id=88 For Dot4 I use Motul RBF 660 or RBF 600 if I can't find it. HH pads will work well but they are a little rough on rotors. They should be ok but just keep an eye on them to make sure they aren't eating the rotors. I also got L Golds from Al and love them. I have tried EBC Greens, Ferrodo, Carbotech and like the Golds best when riding on the street and track pace. | ||
| Al_lighton |
Lest someone do the wrong thing based on what was written above... A 1999 X1 (and all Buells BEFORE 2000) use Dot 5. A 2000 X1 (and all Buells 2000 and later) use Dot 4. Al | ||
| Limitedx1 |
Al.....thanks man!  another happy customer. make sure you throw some stickers in there so i can represent AMERICAN!!!! | ||
| Oldog |
Lim-x check the FSM it calls for over haul and replacement of many components at 4 years Did you get some silicon grease in a packet with the kit? I left it out consider using it the brakes have been spongy because of the ommission ( I pumped a can of BF through the system, air is not likely ) Refill I used a hand held vacuum pump and pulled a vacuum as I added fluid then added and bled fluid till I got the firmest brake I could. I rebuilt the MC and replaced the hose too, your bike is almost 10 years old. YMMV as an aside Buellistic, has suggested changing the fluid every year, I second that it makes a HUGE difference, its amazing how much the fluid degrades in a year. I bleed in new fluid until it comes out water clear like the new fluid, the old stuff will turn "yellow" as it absorbs water from the air. | ||
| Limitedx1 |
i used the silicone grease on the seals and the pistons. i just coated them lightly and wiped off all the excess. i didnt get new lines because the front is braided and they dont make a braided rear for my x1 or at least i cant find it. the masters are getting rebuilt just because the new stuff was cheap and rebuilding them is simple. new fluid all the way around and i should be a ok! | ||
| Oldog |
I replaced the lines too. check the rear line at the edge of the hugger mine will be changed next year | ||
| Limitedx1 |
my hugger is gone, and next year the tabs will be smoothed off the swingarm as well. i have a smoothed swingarm right now but it is up for sale and its just bare metal right now | ||
| Eshardball |
LimitedX1, be prepared for a mud stripe up your back and having to clean the bike every time you ride in the rain. I just put my hugger back on. | ||
| Limitedx1 |
i rode all last year with it gone. just a quick spray or cleaner and a rag and the carbon fiber wipes right off.. |
