Author |
Message |
Paint_shaker
| Posted on Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 03:20 pm: |
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Anyone got any advice, pictures, tips on saftey wiring?? Thanks! |
Sd26
| Posted on Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 03:34 pm: |
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http://www.whizwheels.com/Tips/safetywiring.html How's that? After you safety wire for the rules, then go and safety wire things that scare you if they were to fall off. (No, you can't safety wire yourself...LOL!) |
Wolfridgerider
| Posted on Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 03:34 pm: |
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scroll down and you will find the pics http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/681 7/197224.html Buy a BUNCH of 1/16 drill bits!! and don't forget the the safety glasses. Those bits will snap and take your eye out! A good place to get the safety wire from is a speed shop like JEGS. The should have both wire and the pliers. (Message edited by wolfridgerider on February 12, 2009) |
Sd26
| Posted on Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 03:40 pm: |
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Oooo! Here's one from one of my instructors for my former school. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oOEbMsi-2QU |
Sd26
| Posted on Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 03:42 pm: |
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Don't forget local airplane supply houses too. Often they will have safety wire and pliers too at good prices as they are needed items in the airplane industry. |
Diablobrian
| Posted on Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 03:48 pm: |
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1/16" double ended "jobber" bits are the way to go. They make jigs that guide the bit and allow you to not break as many bits are very worth while (speaking as a machinist) but most people don't buy them or make them. Be sure to center punch before drilling any hole. The little bits will flex and wander when you are drilling at odd angles. Safety wire pliers are much better and faster than trying to do it with vice grips, regular pliers or even the little jig they sell for a couple of bucks that has the crank handle. Take your time. Do it right the first time, and you won't be in a panic trying to get through tech at the track. Make sure you really understand the proper way to safety wire, in such a way that the fastener can't loosen....even on left handed threaded fasteners. If you do it in the wrong direction tech will make you do it over. |
Paint_shaker
| Posted on Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 04:27 pm: |
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Thanks guys. The links helped a bunch!! How do I safety wire the axles with the Dark Horse axle sliders installed?? |
Slaughter
| Posted on Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 06:10 pm: |
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Check the rules on safety-wiring for your organization, you MIGHT be legal by drilling/wiring the Dark Horse sliders themselves and wiring THEM on both sides. You'd still need to wire the pinch bolts. |
Paint_shaker
| Posted on Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 07:11 pm: |
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I was thinking I would have to safety wire the axle, then notch the slider or, get some longer nuts (but so long they stick out the slider) and wire them. |
Sd26
| Posted on Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 07:24 pm: |
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Yeah, something like that should work. |
Duggram
| Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 10:01 am: |
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Paint, the sliders fit right over the wire. That's how I have mine setup. I beveled my axles at the spot to drill and I ended up with a hole that's easy to hit, and the sliders still fit over the top. |
Digital
| Posted on Sunday, February 15, 2009 - 11:30 pm: |
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How did you guys wire the front brake caliper bolts? I studied that picture in the Skully post above.... in the picture the wire appears to fit in between the the bolt head and the outer metal of the carrier. Did you guys drill through the caliper carrier on the front leg bottom? and how did you handle the rear caliper or the rear axle pinch bolts? I am looking to compete in a WERA race. Also, how are the oil lines from the oiltank/swingarm handled? Can I just use hose clamps? Thanks |
Slaughter
| Posted on Sunday, February 15, 2009 - 11:53 pm: |
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On the oil galley connections, check your rules MANY (but not all) race organizations allow using JB weld on the oil line fittings to prevent them from unscrewing. Brake caliper bolts can be safety-wired by drilling CLOSE to the upper rim of the bolt head and just grabbing the head from that one point. IF the hole is drilled close enough to the top of the head of the bolt, there is barely enough room for the wire between the head of the bolt and the casting. |
Paint_shaker
| Posted on Monday, February 16, 2009 - 08:56 pm: |
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Got it done!!! I bought 5 or 6 bits. Tried to do the first bolt (one of the front axle pinch bolts) on the bike. The first bit broke within 30 seconds. So I decided to pull the bolts one by one and put them on the drill press. Broke the 2nd bit on one of the last bolts. The oil drain and primary drain were the easiest to drill through. Used hose clamps on all the oil fittings, then safety wired them together. Drilled the axles last. Had to dremel out material for the front brake bolts, rear brake bolts and front axle. The axle sliders slipped on without much problem. |
Slaughter
| Posted on Thursday, February 19, 2009 - 08:14 pm: |
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http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0002_hand/index .html |
Paint_shaker
| Posted on Thursday, February 19, 2009 - 09:31 pm: |
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Slaughter, Thanks for the link. I ran across that before I started. I wish I would had one of those fancy drill press jigs. Then I could have drilled on some off angles... Maybe next time!! LOL |
Slaughter
| Posted on Thursday, February 19, 2009 - 09:47 pm: |
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I bought safety wire drill jigs from Aircraft Spruce. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/to/safetywiret ools.html Scroll down - all the tools you'd need for any fastener of any sort.
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Jeffb
| Posted on Friday, February 20, 2009 - 08:26 am: |
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For a lot of real good info on racing fasteners, buy the book "Nuts, Bolts and Fasteners" by Carroll Smith. If you are into race cars, but all 5 of his books, you won't regret it. http://www.amazon.com/Fasteners-Plumbing-Handbook- Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0879384069 Jeff |