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Buell Forum » Buell RACING & More » Racing - Circuit/Road Racing » Archive through March 04, 2009 » Question for the 1125 guys « Previous Next »

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Firemanjim
Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 11:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How are you handling rear tire changes as I had the rear off a customers bike yesterday and it was a pain and I had to remove the rear caliper,seemed no possible way to get around it. Front was not quite as bad but still a pain as caliper must be lined up with spokes on wheel and then you need to squint at it just right----
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P_squared
Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 01:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Me thinks folks are going w/ the chain conversion on the rear, which negates the rear brake caliper issue for tire changes.

As for the front, there is the quick disconnect option on the brake line, so you can leave the caliper on the rotor. Just means you would need a caliper for each front.

For 'normal' changes, I think we're all just dealing with it, unless someone has some 'tips' they'd like to share.
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Sheepaholic
Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 02:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

We are using a 1/4" drive extension on a rattle gun to remove the caliper bolts.
We are now quicker changing the rear Buell belt than we were on the Suzuki.
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Duggram
Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 04:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My first rear tire change took a long time. I started thinking about the steps, how to get them done the fastest. Now changes aren't so slow. But I'm still getting the chain rive swingarm.
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Firemanjim
Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 10:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So how does the chain conversion make wheel removal easier? Quick disconnect on front sounds great.
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Duggram
Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 10:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's the rear caliper. You have to remove it to get the rear wheel off. How do you get the caliper bolts off? The answer is too focus on what you're doing. But with the chain drive you don't need to remove the caliper. This is a flimsy excuse for buying the chain drive. I want if for changing gears. Easy wheel changes is a by product.
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Firemanjim
Posted on Saturday, February 14, 2009 - 11:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was wondering why with the chain--is there just enough room to squeeze the wheel by because the pulley is that much wider. I had no problem getting the rear caliper off it just irked me that there was no easy way to do it.
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Duggram
Posted on Saturday, February 14, 2009 - 02:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jim, I don't know if the rear wheel will work around the chain drive rear caliper like the wheel won't do with the stock swing arm. But I do know that the rear caliper is easier to dismount. The caliper bolts can be removed from the right side. Someone suggested here once to drill out the stock swingarm so that the caliper bolts could be inserted from the right side. I'm not sure how that would work.

But, like I said before easier wheel changes are a by product of using the chain drive swingarm. I am much more interested in being able to change final drive ratios.
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