| Author | Message | ||
     Judotrip |
Hello- I just got the bike and am getting it broken in..I was wondering of there was perfered jetting for the vance and hines exhaust? It seems I have to have the idle as high as I can get with the dial adjuster to push the enrichner all the way in.... I have no air intake mod, and I haven't dug in to the carb to see the actual jets...I did adjust the air mixture screw and it warms up faster, but the adjuster still has to be set to fast idle.... thanks, Judo | ||
| Beachbuell |
Your best bet is doing the air cleaner set up and getting a jet kit. Putting just a pipe on your bike and not doing the other two necessary steps can and will harm your engine over time. I'd recommend a Dyno Jet Kit and a K&N Hi-Flo Filter. Maybe even an open airbox mod. | ||
| Brinnutz |
Beach, a Harley drag bike engine builder, who is authorized to sell Dynojet, actually told me they are junk and steers people away from them, and I can't remember what he proceeded to put into my bike now..LOL Anyhow, just my 2cents. | ||
| Beachbuell |
I've been using them for years with no issues. Its just a kit consisting of jet needles and needle jets. Not sure how junky they could be. | ||
| Buellistic |
Does the kit come with a #48 low speed, a #200 high speed and do the directions say to radius the slide(or does it come with a new slide ???) ... | ||
| Beachbuell |
Yes, and no the Dyno Jet Kit does not have a new slide. The Thunder Jet Kit does have a new slide. | ||
| Djkaplan |
When you ask for jetting specs, it's generally a good idea to say where you live because elevation has a bearing on carb calibration. What works best in one part of the country may not work best in another. CV carbs make it a lot simpler to get close, but it's still something to be cognizant of. It's a good idea to richen your M2's carb even if the bike is stock... they came with lean pilot jets and lean idle mixture calibrations from the factory. A good baseline to start from is easy and very inexpensive to do. This works well with the stock breadbox, too. The big black resonant Helmholz airbox actually works really well... it's just ugly as hell. Unseal the idle mixture screw and basline at 2 1/2 out - sounds like you've already done this, just pay attention to your settings so you know where to go from. Replace pilot jet with a #45 (stock is a #42) - this works well for my 2000 M2 at a 600ft elevation in the southeast. You generally go richer as the air gets denser... a #48 probably works better at near sea level (in a humid area) for some. You can get pilot and main jets from the dealer for just a few bucks. Raise the stock needle - the stock M2 needle has been shown have a pretty good taper for stock and near stock applications, it just needs to be slightly raised to richen the mixture across board. I've been running mine with .022" shim (and may go lower). My bike gets 50mpg on the highway so I know the jetting is close to optimum. You can find shims (tiny washers actually) at hardware stores. Borrow a mic or dial caliper from someone to measure them. There are dyno comparisons of needles in the Knowledge Vault archives as well as pictorials of carb calibration projects. The mainjet should be fine as is (#195 or #200) - the bikes were jetted rich on top from the factory... if anything, there is probably power to be found by leaning the mainjet, but I'd be very careful trying that without a lot of plug readings or dyno time. All the rest of the mods, the drilling out of the air damper hole in the slide, cutting a few coils off the slide return spring... save all that for later (if at all) until you've set baselines so you know where you are before you go somewhere else with the calibrations. Your carb calibration shouldn't cost more than $5 in parts if you reuse the carb's bowl gasket (no problem). | ||
| Judotrip |
Thanks for the info...I'll dig into the carb as soon as I get the jets and some time...I live in Seattle an pretty close to sea-level so I'll take that into account... I have an old Yamaha that take forever to warm up as well... The price I pay... | ||
| Judotrip |
I put in the 48 slowjet and it is so much better....I compared the two jets and now can see why. The bike had a 42 in it wtf... Anyhow...The bike fires right up, the idle adjuster is not turned all the way up and I am ready to ride this weekend.... Thanks again... Judo | ||
| Gohot |
So going from So.Cal. 0 humidity to NC.'s 70-80% humidity, you suggest the 48's? verses the Cal. 45's 98 M2 with V&H SS R can, S&S aircleaner, later Thunderstorm heads 10.5 pistons, hand mirror polished manifold. Currently I have the thunderjet kit installed. | ||
| Judotrip |
mine is stock plus the v and h exhaust.... this works for me in Seattle...little cooler then SoCal though....might matter? | ||
| Sstlouisjak |
I've been looking at the Dynojet kits. I notice they have several different one's. I have a stock bike with a K&N air filter in the breadbox. I noticed they have a Thunderslide kit and the regular Dynojet kit. Reading this thread I noticed a new Dynojet kit doesn't have a new slide. Does the Thunderslide improve the performance over the stock slide. Do I need a whole Dynojet kit, or can I just go with different jet sizes? Thanks | ||
| Captainkirk |
The Thunderslide is absolutely the way to go if you're gonna keep the CV-40. You will all but eliminate the "Keihin Cough", and throttle response is dramatically improved due to the lightened weight of the slide and the new spring. I ran one on my M2 for 2 years before making the plunge to the Mikuni (another story in itself!), but again, if you're gonna stay with the CV do the Thunderslide kit. | ||
| Sstlouisjak |
Thanks CaptainKirk ... Oh boy another story..! You got good storys... Yeah I think I will stay with the CV-40 and go with the Thunderslide. Since I have stock exhaust would it hurt to go with a stg 2 or 3. I do want to change my exhaust some day, just not anytime soon... I'm looking more for top end now... She is running about 4000 rpms around 70 miles an hour ... I'd like to get that to drop to at least 3000. I live in a rural area that has hardly any stop and go traffic, so would I be hurting my low end power band? This is what the stg 2 or 3 says: Stage 2 and 3 are for stock to moderately tuned bikes and offer an increase in top-end power gain and may compromise the 'friendly' day-to-ay powerband Thanks. Oh Yeah, I would really like to drop that 6 speed transmission in her I read you guys talking about. I'm just not ready to go that far yet. (Message edited by sstlouisjak on February 08, 2009) | ||
| Captainkirk |
Oh boy another story..! You got good storys... Actually, this is a quick story. Basically, I was satisfied with the Thunderstorm mod with my stock M2. Like you, I was running the K&N filter in the Helmholtz with everything else bone-stock. It was rough and non-responsive until I did the Thunderslide kit. Big difference! When I decided to do the mods (Buell race kit, N8 cams) I elected to switch over to the Mikuni based on Aaron and others' testimony in the KV which documented not much in terms of HP gains, but rather, instead in the bonus of tuneability, and pure throttle response. I compared the cost of a brand-new EZ kit HSR-42 ($350.00 on eBay) to the cost already spent on the Thunderslide added to the cost of a Yost Powertube and another hundred or so to get the CV "massaged" by one of several expert sponsors on this site (sorry, can't remember who at this point.) A no brainer. And I wasn't disappointed. The slide on the HSR is cable-operated by your tightly-clinched right fist, as opposed to engine vacuum via a diaphragm. The HSR also employs an extremely tuneable accelerator pump system, adjustable for both the beginning and end of your power shot, as well as the duration. If you're a "plug-n-play" kinda guy, this carb may not be for you. If you love to tinker for that razor's edge of butterflies in your stomach, it's the ONLY way to fly! But I digress.... A stage 2 might be overkill at this point. A stage 3 would not be recommended for a bone-stock motor. Your stock exhaust does not breathe well enough to support a stage 3. The Thunderslide kit would help more than anything, at this point from personal experience. I doubt any of the jetting kits will affect your RPM band by 1000 RPM. You are looking at gearing changes or rear sprocket change....which, in effect, will also affect everything else once you change them. The M2 motor is happy at 4K....why change it? You're "on the cams" at 4K on a stock M2 motor (which uses stock Sportster-grind cams)...right smack in the middle of the powerband. I can say with certainty that my cams most certainly changed things by moving the POWERBAND up 1000 RPM and raised the upper limits right into the rev-limiter; but not the overall cruise RPM. That is a function of gearing or final drive. Anyway, good luck on your venture. Feel free to PM me if you have any specific questions that I can help you with. You have one hell of a fine machine, IMHO! BTW- I found the thread in the KV comparing carbs; go here- http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/11076.html?1114721919 (Message edited by Captainkirk on February 08, 2009) (Message edited by Captainkirk on February 08, 2009) | ||
| Sstlouisjak |
Wow Thanks Captainkirk for all the good info. Sorry its taken me this long to reply. I had a death in my family, and its been a real blow. I was going to PM you but it wouldn't let me. It said you didnt except PM's I've got a few questions, but I think I'm pretty straight on the thunderslide. Its just a matter of when... Its probably a long shot, but Im rolling the dice again. | ||
| Captainkirk |
No problem. I'll go into my profile and check the settings. I LOVE pm's! Sorry to hear about the death in the family...it's NEVER good and worse when it's someone close. We're here for ya. I'll help you out in any way I can with any questions you might have....I shared your journey into Buell Wonderland just a few short years ago, and it is a wonderful place. |
