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Buell_freak
| Posted on Wednesday, February 06, 2008 - 09:28 pm: |
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It has been awhile for me since I have posted here but was looking for some help...... I have read every thing written by vr1203 and fireman jim, and several others and still have not gotten the complete story on how to set-up a brand new mikuni 45mm HSR to handle a blow thru application.... I am not looking for jetting advice just yet...or long dissertation on how I should be running FI.....I am trying to find out the right way to pressurize the carb.... I understand fuel pressure regulator and maybe increased float level however It does not seem right to block the overflow and increase spring pressure as some have said...so what is the RIGHT way...... |
Dentfixer
| Posted on Thursday, February 07, 2008 - 11:38 am: |
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There is probably some good web sites for Mikuni carbs that will have your answer. There are so many HD aftermarket builders it might take a while to find the right one. Or just send an inquiry to the Mikuni distributor, I believe Sudco is the name. Have you tried them? Ron |
Buell_freak
| Posted on Thursday, February 07, 2008 - 06:27 pm: |
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I have spoken to Sudco pretending I was two different people because sometimes you get the "other Guy" who will help you....they are quick to call you back and are very helpful with regular tuning tips......however on both occasions they said they do not recommend the carb for turbo nor do they offer any advice on how to do it even though they are aware there carbs have been modified for "blow thru" usage....... I know vr1203 is or has run a mikuni on his set-up and was hoping he would post or whomever helped him for all the world to see..... I will start playing with it soon and am sure I can problem solve it enough..... but it is alway easier not doing the same stupid stuff someone else has already done first......thanks for posting as I was scared I would get no response....... |
Dentfixer
| Posted on Thursday, February 07, 2008 - 11:32 pm: |
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I know exactly where you are coming from. In fact I think these forums are created just for that purpose. I'm on several forums because I am restoring and/or building a few different bikes. If we are persistant, someone will eventually have the info we need or send us in the right direction. These people are priceless. By the way, you did PM fireman Jim and vr1203 didn't you? I'd be surprised if they didnt reply with some great help. What about the turbo manufacturer? Couldn't they help any? |
Bad_karma
| Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 01:00 am: |
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Kevin Haven't turbo anything but have been researching. The overflow/bowl vent if not plugged or vented to the same pressure as the carb is seeing will just piss all your fuel out. The turbo will pressurize your bowl via the jets and other paths. I have also read the the float needs to be made such that the pressure will not collapse it. Go to Ebay.com/half.com or any other book store and search for turbo books. I hope to be learning the OJT style this fall with my truck. Joe |
Mikej
| Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 08:29 am: |
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Googled this up: http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/tech/0309pon _1979_turbo_trans_am/index.html
quote:With the turbo oiling system completed, the focus then turned to the fuel system. When blowing through a carburetor, a few things need to be addressed. First, the floats have to be resistant to boost pressure or they will collapse. Brad installed solid floats in the 750 Holley Double-Pumper to prevent this problem. Most new Holley carbs now have them factory installed. He then richened up the primaries one size to #74s and the secondaries two sizes to #84s. Secondly, the fuel pump must be boost referenced in order to compensate for the boost pressure or else the fuel will be pushed back into the gas tank. Brad installed a 140 gph Summit electric fuel pump with a boost-referenced Mallory 4309 fuel pressure regulator. The setup provides six pounds of fuel pressure above boost pressure to the carb, allowing it operate normally. This necessitated the addition of a 5/8-inch return line to the fuel tank.
And here's a link to a turbo Shovelhead Harley with a blowthru carb setup, but the pic on the page isn't entirely work safe: http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/hdturbogirll.htm (Message edited by mikej on February 08, 2008) |
Buell_freak
| Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 08:48 am: |
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vr1203 "jim" has not logged in since nov. 2007...... my hope was someone here who came in contact with him would see the post as he is the one I believe to have made the mikuni work first...... I have helped and built several blow thru set-ups on cars and trucks.... however with 50cc accelerator pumps and so on the dynamics are a little different than the mikuni set-up...... it sound as though it will be something I will need to to figure out and when I do I will post for anyone to know how to set-up the carb........ Thanks for all the help guys!!!!!!! Please chime in if anyone has something to add for the beginner or advanced turbo nut.... I do not feel there is one place to get all the info and I have been gathering info for some time...... thanks again..... |
Vr1203
| Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 10:25 am: |
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I'm here!!! Kevin emailed me. One person Brian Olson,of Turbo Connection can help anyone with the flatslide Mic turbo setup, he has French adjustable fuel regulators and knows the pressure hose routing, pressures etc. There is no real mods to the carb, you just need to balance the pressures, air and fuel, so the fuel sees a pressure drop across the jet in the ventchuri as in a normal non boosted way.I can dig out notes for actual hose routing, all 300 + pages! It would probably be easier to remove the fairing,plenum and carb and take photos! By memory,you need a pressure sensitive adjustable fuel regulator. When the air pressure/boost goes up the fuel pressure stays above it by about 3 lbs. So you need a hose from the plenum to the regulator. Now you need to run a hose to the carb attaching it to a fitting in the back that goes to the bowl. Really I should take the bike apart and reverse engineer it for you as I can't remember all the details as I worked on it for years on and off. Turbo Connection 605-393-0816 Ph. 605-393-2667 fax Shop address: 3579 Reservoir Rd Rapid City, SD 57703 http://www.boostisgood.com/start2.htm |
Buell_freak
| Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 05:47 pm: |
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Thanks so much, I have sent you another mail vr1203..... I will attempt to do the mods in a step by step fashion and post back as a how to for the site.... Stay tuned.... KD |
Buell_freak
| Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 05:58 pm: |
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Dentfixer, I am currently working on a kit the would bolt to your stock muffler and use a separate scavenge oil system, so the garret ball bearing turbo I am using is a "generic"....the fuel injected set-up is relatively easy, the carb set-up for me being born after 1970 is somewhat puzzling..... the turbo manufacturers have "flow maps" but do not offer tuning advice.... I would like to have something available to the guy like me that knows just enough to really destroy something yet is smart enough to keep it running with a little help.... I think for a bolt on turbo kit it is ridiculous to pay $6900 while you can turbo a complete car after shipping from japan with low boost for under $3500.... a viable alternative must be found.... This and the goal of information sharing which everyone can be part of..... Thanks so much for everyone who has read thought about and posted.... I hope this spreads..... |
Dentfixer
| Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 09:18 pm: |
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Looks like it's working out the way it's supposed to! Nice going guys! |
Bad_karma
| Posted on Saturday, February 09, 2008 - 01:27 am: |
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kevin Keep us updated. good luck. joe |
Vr1203
| Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2014 - 10:50 am: |
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Hi Still around!
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