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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » M2 Cyclone » Archive through April 02, 2009 » Need help, M2 carb and fuel « Previous Next »

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Dstaff
Posted on Saturday, January 24, 2009 - 02:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Alright, a little disclaimer here, I am not much of mechanic but I've got to learn to do some minor maintenance on my cyclone. I've been gone for about a year with the military and I have not been able to ride my Buell. There is a lot of old fuel in the carb and I don't know how to get it out. How do I do that? Also I need to drain the fuel out of the tank. Thanks for your help.
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Sparky
Posted on Saturday, January 24, 2009 - 03:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You need to remove the float bowl in order to clean it up and to get access to the needle jet cluster. It's probably simplest to remove the carb to be able to remove the float bowl because you don't want to bugger up the float bowl screws.

With the carb off the bike, remove the idle mixture screw (if there is a cap covering it, pry it off) and squirt some carb cleaner spray into the idle screw hole, making sure the nozzle goes all the way into the hole and doesn't spray back out. If you can see the spray coming out of a passage into the interior of the bowl, that should be enough.

Try draining the gas out of the tank by removing the fuel hose from the petcock, putting the petcock in the reserve position and removing the gas cap. Then if there is any residual fuel in the tank, try siphoning the rest out through the gas cap with a long fuel hose.
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Buellistic
Posted on Saturday, January 24, 2009 - 03:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

First of all someone should have told you about STA-BIL before you let it set ...

There is a drain screw on the lowest point of the float bowl ...

If you put some use STP GAS TREATMENT it will bring the OCTANE back up so you can use the old gas or remove the fuel line from the gas tank to drain ...

If the petcock still has the OEM hose clamp you must be careful not to damage the fuell line and replace clamp with a
very small hose clamp ...

Any more questions, feel free to ask ???
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Captainkirk
Posted on Saturday, January 24, 2009 - 05:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Follow Sparky's instructions regarding the carb. As far as the tank goes; don't take any chances. Remove the tank from the bike. Dump the fuel in the weeds. Then put in maybe a quart of new, fresh fuel and swirl/swish it around a bunch. Dump that too. Reinstall the tank and top it off with fresh fuel. Turn on the petcock and allow enough fuel to flow into a clean, clear container..a glass jar works well...so you can ensure no gum, discoloration or debris is passing. If OK, hook up your fuel line; you're good to go. Next time use Sta-Bil.
Take your time when cleaning the carb. This is no time to be in a hurry, and if you don't do a complete job, you'll end up doing it again. At least once!
I would strongly suggest removing both pilot jet and main jet for a thorough cleaning of both jets and passages. Jet Spray GumOut works wonders. Wear latex gloves and eye protection. Make sure you clean any varnish off the needle and slide, and when reassembling, spray silicone spray lubricant on the slide and bore. Before removing and cleaning the idle needle, count the number of turns clockwise to closed, THEN remove it. Record the number of turns open from fully closed, and re-set it to this position after cleaning.
Of course, this would also be a good time to ditch the CV and install a new Mikuni HSR!
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Jimmy77
Posted on Sunday, January 25, 2009 - 09:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm going through the same thing right now. I used a turkey baster (wife still has no idea ; ))to get all the old gas out and put it into an open bucket on the side of the house so it would evaporate. I've also been given the lesson of using Stabil when storing the bike...

1. Add the proper amount of Stabil to the gas as per the insturctions on the bottle.
2. Turn the fuel valve on the petcock to off.
3. Run the engine until it stalls and burns all the gas out of the carb.

Removing the carb isn't that hard at all. I've recently done it 4 times and looks like I will be doing it atleast once again before I get mine going. Do yourself a favor and run down to your local HD dealer and see the guys in the parts department. As to look at the exploded view of the carb in the parts manual. A picture says a 1,000 words after all right.

Here is my post in the Knowledge Vault which may help you some... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/431104.html?1232891176
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Dstaff
Posted on Sunday, January 25, 2009 - 10:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for your help, I am going to be tackling the Buell this afternoon, hopefully all goes well.
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Skntpig
Posted on Sunday, January 25, 2009 - 09:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

americansportbike.com sells a kit to change those carb screws to allen bolts for like $6. I like it way better than the screws that strip easy.
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