| Author | Message | ||
     Jjk |
I have read all the posts about the pros and cons of running the 1125s without it's inner airbox but I was wondering if anyone had tried to 'swiss cheese' their airbox like we all did on our XB9s? By that I mean taking the inner cover off and cutting (or drilling) holes all over it. | ||
| Citified |
I think most of us did that because the inner airbox actually held the airfilter in place. | ||
| Black_snowman |
I thought about different methods to make it breath better at low RPM but most involve making the bike vary rain un-friendly. So I opted to just remove the inner cover and call it good. I don't know if it helped anything, but I sure like that intake noise.  | ||
| Fresnobuell |
I think most of us did that because the inner airbox actually held the airfilter in place. My bike has two elastic bands that hold the filter in place. | ||
| Krassh |
He is talking about the reference to the XB's and those owners swiss cheesing theirs because that inner cover holds the filter in place. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
My bad, I went the Open Air Box kit route from American Sport Bike and never had the pleasure of swiss cheesing the stocker. | ||
| Jjk |
I guess I didn't ask my question clearly enough! What I'm asking is whether or not there is a 'best of both worlds' situation for the airbox on the 1125s - I've read where the closed, pressurized factory airbox is great for making more hp at high speed and I've also read that running the bike without it's airbox wakes the motor up at lower speeds compared to OEM. I am wondering if there is any power/responsiveness benefit to cutting holes in the airbox? | ||
| Fresnobuell |
I would think the K&N filter that is coming out would help the situation with the airbox on--allowing more flow but keeping the ram air effect. I'm gonna go that route. I don't know if the best of both worlds can be achieved in this case. | ||
| Bigblock |
I was thinking a trap door of sorts, with a real light spring. When there is vacuum in the box at lower speeds, it would pull the door open against the spring, drawing in extra airflow. When the ram air starts to work at speed, the loss of vacuum, or rising pressure from the increasing ram air effect in the air box would allow the trap door to close, and the ram air effect to now operate as designed. I just haven't got around to figuring out exactly how to do this. I have some ideas, but have taken no action at this point... | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Pretty ingenious Bigblock +11111111 | ||
| Bigblock |
Thanks, I have been thinking about this for over six months, all I need is someone who is willing to send me an inner airbox or 2 for me to experiment with... (hint- hint) I'm a bit afraid to just chop mine up without a backup just yet, as the always open version is just too loud for me without earplugs, I almost had a heart attack the first time I WFO'd this thing when I first pulled my inner air box cover... | ||
| Bigblock |
I'm also too darn cheap and broke to buy an extra... (Oh WHAAAAAAH!)  | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Yeah, if you nice and low, ie head close to the airbox, and you open 'er wide open, it will wake you up big time. I have pretty much been wearing the plugs religiously for a while. Funny how everybody in my small riding group has migrated to the plugs--I was the only one at one point. I guess everyone likes their hearing! | ||
| Redscuell |
Jjk, I'm with you, I contemplated the option of skeletonising the inner airbox so that everything was removed but the perimeter and the bit that holds the petrol vent hose in place. Decided against it for now, and went with simply removing the inner airbox, and changing to the XB outer that has an additional intake w/ screen near the petrol filler cap. The sound of the intakes when blipping the throttle, helps make up for the lack of sound coming from the muffler, and so serves as a substitute 'early warning' to slow-moving traffic that I'm nearby. But your post has rekindled my interest. Maybe I'll pop on home and get out my Bosch jigsaw! | ||
| Jjk |
Bigblock - awesome idea! I like your thinking and it seems like a promising idea. Redscuell - let us know how it goes. On my old XB, I used a 1 1/4" hole saw drill bit for all the holes. Sure as hell looked cool and definitely improved the top end performance and throttle response. I do understand that this new airbox is pressurized and so it might not work. Thanks again for all the input, guys. John | ||
| Fresnobuell |
How much is an inner airbox? | ||
| Helicon |
Has anyone done any dyno testing with the open airbox to see if there are any hp/tq differences? | ||
| Ccryder |
IIRC it really didn't change the dyno numbers (since the ram air really doesn't work on the dyno). Seat of the pants says it spins up faster and sounds awesome. I used a stepped drill on my 12r airbox. The stepped drill gets rid of the curly-Q's and allows you to pick and choose the hole size you want. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Has anyone done any dyno testing with the open airbox to see if there are any hp/tq differences? COuld be one of those things where the add'l noise makes it seem like you are getting more power. But I have mine off and it does *seem* like it frees} up the engine at street legal speeds. | ||
| Tonedeath |
i have mine off and i noticed that the third gear wheelies are much easier. | ||
| Eaton_corners |
Hey Bigblock, I thought about that a while back,and what I believe would work is just a flap on the front of the airbox directly above where the air enters from the scoop. When the air blowing up from the main opening has enough force it will push the flap closed and the following pressure should hold the flap closed. | ||
| Cataract2 |
What are the pros and cons of removing the inner airbox on the 1125R? I know about the XB's, but not so much so with the 1125R. | ||
| Ridenusa4l |
removed- Pros- better throttle response and low-mid power, and a WICKED noise Cons- lose ram air at speeds (80mph+) and top speed decreases Jake P.S.- theres probably more these are the ones i know of.. | ||
| Bigblock |
I was thinking about that, but I suspect the actual pressures generated by the ram air effect are actually quite low, and I don't know that the airstream there would be adequate to close the trap door, or flap. THis is why I was thinking a light spring that the intake vacuum generated by an open throttle might be adequate to open. But it's only an idea at this point, either way, the door and / or the spring will probably have to be very light, and yet still be able to seal well enough to allow the ram air to hold pressure at speed. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Slick idea Ray. Instead of a spring, a counter-balance would be easier to set by experimenting. Just a lever arm with a moveable weight. I think opening the airbox exacerbates the AT error. The more airflow across the sensor, the more accuracy. Z | ||
| Cataract2 |
Hm. Does anyone have any dyno graphs showing the with and without airbox for low speed? | ||
| Carbonbigfoot |
Something that hit me the other day that I believe is a good indication of getting some more power out of the removal of the inner lid is this. My AFV's front and back went from 100/100 to 105/105 with no other mods. With it back on, dropped to 100/100 again. Back off, 105/105. This coupled with the SOTP dyno results, I'm pretty sure it's making a bit more power with it out. The noise is really the reason for me, tho. Can't wait to see what the noise and AFV's do with the Drummer!  Rob | ||
| Bigblock |
Zac, that's just crazy... I like it! not much room to work with in there, more food for thought... | ||
| 1_mike |
For what it may be worth from my point of view, Bigblock's got a good idea. Been done for years on different vehicles, bikes and cars. I'd also bet...if someone took the time to map out the ACTUAL square inches of the "ram-air" inlet....it's not large enough to properly feed those big throttle bodies at higher rpm. Except for the rain, the open screen at the tank inlet, along with well placed holes in the air box lid is a good idea also...just gotta figure out a good way to keep things dry. I've thought of the trap door idea too...but using thin, semi-stiff rubber, let the engine open the trap doors as it wants to. Like vacuum secondaries on an automotive four barrel carburetor. Mike | ||
| Redscuell |
"Redscuell - let us know how it goes." I chickened out. I had it all marked up, using a laser level to get the centreline accurate. But when it came time to limber up the jigsaw, I couldn't work out in my mind what an altered inner airbox would give me vs. simply leaving it removed: sound? power? | ||
| Zack3g |
i removed my inner airbox cover, and replaced the outer cover with one from my XB12X, since it has the intake holes on it. I've noticed a good improvement in power. | ||
| Wfo_rey |
Ok, I ran the Texas Mile last Oct of 08 on a stock 1125r and tried a few things. 0ne of them was the air box. Found out it pulled harder with it out, but flattend out at the top at 151mph. In, it pulled all the way to the end of the mile at 152.689mph and still pulling. This year in March, I will be trying it again with alot more goodies. | ||
| Cutty72 |
I dyno'd mine with and without the inner airbox With inner airbox 129hp 74ft/lb torque a week later, inner airbox removed 131 hp 75 ft/lb torque Used the same dyno, and same operator both times. It was about 15 degrees cooler and less humid the second time too. Further, I didn't notice any lack of power over 80 mph (where the ram air kicks in) without the inner airbox, but that is strictly from my butt dyno. |
