Author |
Message |
Thecajunwarrior
| Posted on Sunday, January 04, 2009 - 04:51 pm: |
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Does anyone know if its possible to lower my 1125? |
Sctip
| Posted on Sunday, January 04, 2009 - 05:11 pm: |
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I would love to find out also? |
Ccryder
| Posted on Sunday, January 04, 2009 - 09:18 pm: |
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Please do a search. This has been throughly discussed. Short answer is no. Neil S. |
Smoke
| Posted on Monday, January 05, 2009 - 05:46 am: |
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i carved the seat foam down on my 1125r track bike due to not having enough leg length to make a proper triangle with my knee out in corners and then restapled the cover back on. the cover is not snug against the front of the seat anymore. the added benefit is that i am more stable at a stop. i bought a firebolt seat off ebay for 25 to do it with in case i messed it up. marked the foam with a magic marker and cut it in a band saw. be careful because the foam really grabs the blade. tim |
Ponti1
| Posted on Monday, January 05, 2009 - 07:42 am: |
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Didn't 1125chick find someone that was going to lower hers? I may be incorrect, but I thought she posted a month or two ago that she was having it done and would report back details when complete. Can't seem to find the thread now though... |
Hooliagn
| Posted on Monday, January 05, 2009 - 08:39 am: |
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Traxxion sells a shorter rear shock as well as fork cartirige and or spacer. However with the shorter rear shock you can slide your forks up thru the triple trees to match the rear change and maintain geometry. |
Ccryder
| Posted on Monday, January 05, 2009 - 09:56 am: |
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I am no geometry guru but, IIRC the changes you are suggesting will not "maintain" the geometry. Please be fore warned, that following this path can lead to some serious consequences, tread very carefully. |
Jaimec
| Posted on Monday, January 05, 2009 - 10:24 am: |
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I've been keeping quiet here but I think the REAL answer is "get used to the height." Really, ANYTHING you do to lower the bike is going to affect either the peg/seat/bar relationship, the steering geometry or cornering clearance. NONE of those changes will be an improvement. Since 99% of the time your feet are on the pegs I've NEVER seen the logic in bending over backwards to make the motorcycle more comfortable for 1% of the time. I'll shut up now... |
Hooliagn
| Posted on Monday, January 05, 2009 - 10:39 am: |
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Oh Boy ! |
Ccryder
| Posted on Monday, January 05, 2009 - 12:13 pm: |
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Yes I am "vertically challenged" myself. It would give me a warmer more comfortable feeling if I could stop and be flat-footed. At a 5'9" and a 29" inseam I can stretch and get one foot flat (well almost) if I squeeze the nose of the seat and get my legs in front of the pegs. I'm with Jaimec, you do get used to it. It also helps that the 25r is a light bike. TIme2Work Neil S. |
Jaimec
| Posted on Monday, January 05, 2009 - 01:11 pm: |
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I've owned a total of three motorcycles that I could easily flat foot: My first bike, a 1982 Yamaha XJ550RJ SECA followed by a 1982 Yamaha XJ650RJ SECA. After that, every other bike I've owned if I want to flatfoot I'd have to stand up and STRETCH, and even then it helped if my boots had something of a heel on them. The third bike was a tiny little Kawasaki KE100 dual purpose two stroke. On my 850 lbs K1200LT I just keep my right foot on the brake and put my left foot SOLIDLY on the ground. The brake keeps the bike (did I mention it weighs 850 lbs??) from moving far better than my two feet would anyway. For my 1125R the balls of my feet are sufficient, and if not, the "right foot rear brake left foot ground" works just as well as it does on the LT. I know one woman who spent a FORTUNE lowering a BMW K75RT, to the point she could sit on it, but the damned thing was practically unrideable. She eventually sold it saying "I don't know why everyone makes such a fuss over these bikes." Of course, when you completely change what the factory delivered you oughtta expect it isn't going to behave to spec! The shortened suspension was so stiff (to avoid bottoming) that you felt EVERY irregularity in the road. The chopped seat was so low it felt like your chin rested on your knees. You needed a FORKLIFT to hoist the bike onto the centerstand, and the sidestand had to be cut so the bike would actually lean ON it instead of AWAY from it. The funny thing is, I knew MANY shorter women who rode the bike "as is" without ANY problems. The human body is a remarkably adaptable organism. Once you put your mind to it, it can adapt to almost ANYTHING if you give it a chance. |
Hooliagn
| Posted on Monday, January 05, 2009 - 01:26 pm: |
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I agree that people adapt.... some more quickly then others. However, sliding the forks into the triple tree to match any lowering that you've done to the rear DOES NOT change the suspension geometry of the bike. The rake, (steering head & forks) and trail remain the same. It does make the bike lower with less ground clearance and possibly change you wheelbase by 10ths of an inch. Case in point: XB12s & XB12scg |
Jammin_joules
| Posted on Monday, January 05, 2009 - 02:10 pm: |
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It is with good intel I can tell you to watch for Buell to be offering an Olin rear shock that addresses this concern. Maybe within the month. Otherwise, High Country H-D/Buell (a BWB sponsor) has a few 1125 mods they are working on for various projects that should also help in this area. ~jammer |
Jaimec
| Posted on Monday, January 05, 2009 - 05:02 pm: |
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Hooliagn: Remember that lowering the bike that way not only reduces ground clearance, it can seriously affect how well your sidestand works under certain conditions unless you cut it down too. Plus, if you remove some suspension travel, you should stiffen it to prevent it bottoming and that will affect handling. There is no simple solution. It's all a carefully integrated system. Change one thing and you affect something else you may not want to. |
Hooliagn
| Posted on Monday, January 05, 2009 - 05:43 pm: |
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"Hooliagn: Remember that lowering the bike that way not only reduces ground clearance, it can seriously affect how well your sidestand works under certain conditions unless you cut it down too. Plus, if you remove some suspension travel, you should stiffen it to prevent it bottoming and that will affect handling. " Very True Sir |
Buelltech6
| Posted on Saturday, January 17, 2009 - 07:01 pm: |
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cut spring,and dampner rod, re thread dampner rod its that easy but jaimec is correct it will adversely affect handling i did it for drag racing |
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