| Author | Message | ||
     Skinstains |
Getting the clip (wrist pin clip) in is always entertaining. I've done enough 2-stroke dirt bike top ends that I've got lots of stories to tell of "PIING" and the blasted thing disappears! That's why they're called "Jesus Clips" around here. I guess MF'er clip wouldn't be appropriate so they went with Jesus. | ||
| Dr_greg |
I GIVE UP!!!!! Whoever considers the Uly an "easy bike to work on" hasn't worked on much else. $#%^&*(@ It's now 8:30 p.m. I've wrenched on this &*^%$#@ bike all day last Sunday, Monday night, Tuesday night, all day Friday, all day Saturday, and all day Sunday. I've used my entire Thanksgiving break on the stupid thing. Everything has fought me. Headers. Wiring. Muffler. V-bracket. Center tie bar mount. Throttle Body. Plug wires. Every stupid lousy thing. I was upbeat yesterday, but I give up now. Mrs. Greg will take me to work yet again tomorrow morning for my $#^&(*% 8:00 a.m. class. If the Uly leaks oil when I'm done (quite likely, the thing has more gaskets than Carter has pills), I don't really care. I don't want to see the &*^%$ thing again. After this spark plug blowout and INCREDIBLE fallout I have NO confidence in it. Not long ago I would have ridden it anywhere. I really wish I could use profanity now. Yeah, yeah; I'll get it running and forget about all this. Sure. Wanna bet? That GS test ride is looking better and better. Final thoughts: anyone in the market for an '06 Uly? | ||
| Hmartin |
Dang, and I thought you were having a lot of fun doing this.  Professor, I've really enjoyed lurking here. This has been the most informational thread I've seen yet. It's really too bad things have not gone better for you. If nothing else, you've shown me what kind of problems await should I ever need such a repair myself. I rethreaded the head on my old 2-stoke Suzuki many years ago, and the only problem I ran into there was when I went to change the spark plug again, the darn sleeve stayed on the plug instead of the head! I recall earlier that you mentioned that you run a compression check every time you change the plugs. Did you do that on the your Uly, and if so, is there any chance that could be one of the reasons that the threads stripped out? | ||
| Dr_greg |
recall earlier that you mentioned that you run a compression check every time you change the plugs. Did you do that on the your Uly, and if so, is there any chance that could be one of the reasons that the threads stripped out? No, never done a compression check. Probably a good idea, though. Thanks for your support. I'm coming home from work early this afternoon to work on Uly. Glutton for punishment, I guess. | ||
| Treadmarks |
Hang in there Doc, you're almost there.  | ||
| Chadhargis |
Judging by what you've done to the bike, I can't say I'm surprised that you've had a bit of a time with it. You've basically torn it completely down, and done it with the engine still in the frame. That's pretty amazing. When I did the engine swap in my 600, I thought to myself how easy it was to get the engine out. Of course, the Uly has oil lines to contend with where my 600 doesn't, but if I ever have to do a valve adjustment or anything that requires diving into the engine, I'll drop it out, sit it on my rolling bench, and wrench away. I can't imagine how difficult it is to try to put in a wrist pin with the engine rotated but still in the frame. You have my utmost respect for even trying. As a former GS owner, and owner of a few BMWs, you won't find them any easier to work on. Do a Google search on "BMW motorcycle final drive" or "BMW motorcycle rear seal". Go buy your GS, and when it's time to replace the clutch, get back with us. Or if your rear seal goes out, and you get oil on your dry clutch, then you're replacing the clutch and the seal. The jugs are easy to get to and work on, but the rest of the motor is a real bear, and to top it off, the motor is part of the frame, so anything you do to it means you have to dissemble the bike completely. The rear subframe as well as the front end, all bolt to the engine. | ||
| Dr_greg |
OK, OK, okay...I've calmed down a little bit. My apologies for my previous rant. I guess I've just spent too much time working on it. But it's my "car" and I need to get it back together ASAP. I can't imagine how difficult it is to try to put in a wrist pin with the engine rotated but still in the frame Y'know, that part is easy. All the "machined" parts go right in/on. Piston, cylinder, head, even the throttle body. The problem (as on cars) comes with the ancillary stuff. The "V-bracket" doesn't quite fit---requires a bit of prying. The muffler doesn't want to fully slip on...every situation like that turns a 1-minute event into a 15- or 30-minute event. Over the course of a day it'll drive one crazy. Like it did me. After getting the engine reassembled, I foolishly thought I was home free. "I've done all the rest of the stuff before." Yeah, right. It was getting late in the day, and I was tired. Then the 1-minute jobs became 30-minute jobs. So I'm sure I'll get it fired up this evening and take a spin around the block. Come back and park it on my beautiful epoxy garage floor and wait for an oil drip... --Doc P.S. I threaten "GS" when I'm flustrated (a real word, BTW) with the Uly, but I don't think I'll ever buy one. Can't see myself as part of that crowd. | ||
| Rubberdown |
p.s.:  pss: hope it all turns out well for you. | ||
| Froggy |
Well Greg, on the bright side after you get this all sorted out, it will go 150k before the next major failure  | ||
| Ulykan |
Dr. Greg, I am impressed and amazed at what you've taken on and accomplished so far. As one who is a klutz at almost anything mechanical I can't imagine myself even attempting anything close to what you have done. My utmost admiration for you. I salute you and wish you success. My Uly only has 3K on her and except for a fuel pump replacement <500 miles I haven't had any major issues even though I've had/have a couple of small ones that will be tackled in spring. Good luck and I'll be following your story. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Dr_greg- Your situation reminds me of a time I got so aggravated with something I was working on (some piece from my 1953 Hudson Hornet) that I took out a ball peen hammer and just started beating the living hell out of an old exhaust manifold. IIRC I delivered a continuous stream of expletives while doing so. My wife was looking out of the kitchen window at the time and was pretty entertained. When I calmed down, she asked "Do you feel better now?". I did.  | ||
| Chadhargis |
I've had those "1 minute becomes 30" things many times, and you're right, a lot of times it's due to fatigue. When I turn wrenches on my bike, I try to do it when I can take my time and enjoy it. Even a simple oil change can become a job if you're the least bit tired. Case in point, I was changing oil in my car once, and I drained all the oil out, and began adding the new oil. I checked the dipstick, and there was no oil on it. I had forgotten to put the drain plug back in and 5 quarts of oil were all over my driveway. I had to clean up the mess (it took at least 30 minutes to get it wiped up), then I had to hop in the wifes car to run down to the store for more oil, and some "oil sorb". I got back, and re-added the oil, this time with the drain plug in place. Then I cranked up the engine to check for leaks only to have oil blow all over my engine because I didn't put on the dang oil cap. So....even a simple job can become a nightmare if you're tired. From that point on, I've taken my cars to the Jiffy Lube for oil changes. Well, until I got my diesel that takes nearly 7 quarts of synthetic oil with each change....I do it myself. And I use a Fumoto drain valve instead of a drain plug. | ||
| Froggy |
Threadjacking, Chad do you use one of those valves on the Uly? If so what size fits? | ||
| Ourdee |
Did you er uh get any intake pics doc? | ||
| Dr_greg |
Did you er uh get any intake pics doc? You mean installing the "velocity stack?" Nope, haven't done it yet. Soon as I get the idler pulley on I'll turn my attention to the velocity stack. It's a two-person job; last time my son held the clamp open and I wrestled it on. Maybe I'll have Mrs. Greg try to get a picture. Oh, darnit!! Someone wanted pictures of the rocker cover gaskets, as I recall...well, sorry. Completely forgot about it. | ||
| Ourdee |
Thanks Doc & Mrs. Greg, Yes, the velocity stack. | ||
| Tootal |
Dr. Greg, Try spraying a little WD-40 into the velocity stack. I take pliers to squeeze the spring and it just pops right on. To me it's a much bigger pain to get the lower air box on the stack. A small allen wrench with a ball end works decent on that one. If non of that works I highly recommend prayer!  | ||
| Dr_greg |
At 2030 MST I am FINISHED!! Yes, I use some grease on the velocity stack. I have many pictures of the velocity stack installation. Of course I have no idea if it runs, let alone leaks oil. I want a good night's sleep. Let the running wait until tomorrow. Some final comments tomorrow also...whew, what a job. P.S. What is this lower air box you speak of? | ||
| Froggy |
The suspense is killing me! I'm gonna come over and take it for a spin while you take your old man nap | ||
| Chadhargis |
To answer the off topic question, I don't use a Fumoto valve on my Ulysses. Only on my diesel Jeep. If you've ever gotten used oil from a diesel engine on your hands, you know why I have a valve on there. That stuff actually stains your hands it's so nasty. The oil that comes out of my bikes, no matter how hard I beat them, is many times still clean enough to see through. | ||
| Froggy |
Yea I just figured no more risking stripping the plug, plus no more guessing which wrench fits because I never remember. | ||
| Dr_greg |
... while you take your old man nap... (yawn) Mmkay, I just woke up from my extended nap... Let's see, who was it that wanted pictures of the velocity stack installation? Well, you asked for it: Ready, set, go!       We give up...OK, one more try...   GOT IT!!!   | ||
| Rotorhead |
I swear that is the hardest thing to do on this bike. I'll say a curse word for you. @#$^%& thing. | ||
| Natron |
That looked sort of like the time I tried for an hour to mount a 650C road bike tire on a 700C wheel. | ||
| Dr_greg |
After the last "velocity stack" hurdle, the way was clear, or so I thought. When installing the left side scoop, I found this...  The rear exhaust header was just a little higher than before, and there was insufficient clearance to insert the rear tab on the right side scoop between the frame tab and the header pipe. I believe this was due to my inability to work the muffler up the "last bit" onto the 2-1 header pipe. When I tightened the band clamps it strained the header pipes just a bit higher. I feel there was no harm done. Oh, I had also installed new exhaust port gaskets (the braided ones)...that may have caused a slightly different alignment. Actually, I will probably loosen the band clamps and (with some help) try to work the muffler up a little. But not this week. At this point, there was only one thing to do...run the right side scoop "through the bandsaw"---er, the rear tab, that is. That made that open square into a slot, which slides perfectly onto the tab. I recommend this mod anyway, since it makes the right side scoop a heck of a lot easier to install. So then, at 2030 MST on Monday, December 1, I was DONE.  I switched on the ignition: fuel pump cycled, all the right lights came on/off. Would it start? No way was I going to try that night---I wanted a good night's rest. Stay tuned for the next installment...the tension mounts  | ||
| Tootal |
Yea!!! On the velocity stack, once you get it on, has the outer flaps that must be separated and the bottom part of the air box goes between them. I find that more of a pain than the stack itself. Glad to see you've made it. Looking forward to the test run report.  | ||
| Skinstains |
We're waiting... | ||
| Natron |
No way I would be able to walk away from that thing without starting it. No. freaking. way. | ||
| Dr_greg |
Oh yeah, I forgot a couple more pics. These are just for people who have never taken off the airbox base plate; these might be helpful tips for re-installing it. I find it easiest to pull both flanges of the velocity stack sealing ring up through the baseplate hole to start:  Then push the lower flange back down through the baseplate hole, leaving the upper flange on top.  And..VOILA! Or, as some say, VIOLA...  All ready for the air filter and other goodies. Note breather hose holes blocked off.  Should really have posted these before the final pose of me and the Uly, but...these might help someone get the base plate on. BTW, the first time I removed the baseplate it was unbelievably greasy. Much cleaner now, but for how long? | ||
| Treadmarks |
This is a great write up Doc. Probably one of the best I have seen. You do a great job of sharing the information which will help motivate and educate lots of guys trying this for the first time. I see the breathers are rerouted but I must have missed the details. I guess it really doesn't matter where they went, just so they don't go into the intake. An easy trick for the stack install: Let the spring clamp stay on the stack, just move it up as high as it will go. The diameter is smaller there and it will still let the stack pop on snug, then use a set of spark plug wire pullers to compress the clamp and put it in place. Makes it a one man job, which is the way I have to work. A little heavy grease will help keep the sand/dust from bypassing the filter and traveling through the flap seals on the base of the stack. Not sure if you ever ride off road or not, but it will help keep the intake air clean if you do. Does it run and is the leak stopped???.....The suspense is killing me.  |
