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Buell Forum » XBoard » Buell XBoard Archives » Archive through November 09, 2008 » Some questions on fork oil and seals. « Previous Next »

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Manimal
Posted on Friday, November 07, 2008 - 06:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So i've had my bike up on the rear stand for a couple days now getting it prepped to be stored. I was wiping it down when i noticed some oil on my front tire. Followed it north and sure enough my seal is leaking. . So i'm wondering, How much it would cost to have the dealer put in new oil and seals? Or i'm considering doing it myself but, i've never done anything like that before so i'm a little tenative to dive in. Anyone that has done it, that could give me some (Know-how) would be great. Thanks guys
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Caféelite
Posted on Friday, November 07, 2008 - 09:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey if I can do it I am sure you can... I will post a pic of my custom compressor tool as well (IE: modified tie down)

Only thing that would have made it easier is if I had a spare triple tree clamp that I could have used in a vice. Suggest looking for a damaged one cheap, it will make it a million times easier.

(Message edited by caféelite on November 07, 2008)
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New12r
Posted on Friday, November 07, 2008 - 09:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

First, dont pay the dealer, pay a suspension specialist.

Second, if you want to do it yourself you can, it is not that hard.

You WILL NEED:

A 32mm Deep well socket

Some sort of spring compressor(there are plenty homemade ones here you could search for, I use ratchet straps.)

A seal driver ***VERY IMPORTANT*** I have used PVC pipe cut in half and a ****RUBBER MALLET OR PLASTIC COVERED DEAD BLOW**** to drive in the seals. I metal hammer will leave dents in the lower fork tube causing more leaks.

Something to measure fork oil level, a wire hangar cut to the right length will work.

Last you will need a service manual.

But really if you search out badweb there are plenty of tutorials with pics and everything.
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Panhead_dan
Posted on Friday, November 07, 2008 - 10:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's really easy.
The book says you need a fork holder tool. Your tripple trees will do the job.
The book says you need a fork spring compressor. An extra set of hands will do the job.
The book says you need a seal driver. A 4 inch piece of 2 inch pvc pipe cut in half lengthwise will do the job.

The first time you do the fork seals it will seem a bit tricky. After that, it's cake. Easiest fork seals in the moto-world.
Order the "O" rings, seals, dust boots and type F fluid. Read the book. Read it again. When they get to the part where you drive in the seals, place the seal retainer up on the dust boot and slide it up out of the way. Place the seal down where it goes and place the pvc slice on it. Position the fork so that the part of the fork that the fender mounts on contacts the pvc and press down. Rotate and repeat untill the seal is seated sufficiently to install the retainer.
Cake.
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Gentleman_jon
Posted on Saturday, November 08, 2008 - 05:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

As someone who has never done it myself, I will take the liberty of making a few suggestions.

1. Sometimes a leaky seal is caused by a piece of dirt that can be removed . Dirt riders often know how to do it with a piece of 35mm film with a hook cut in the end. Never done it myself, but I have heard about it several times.

2. Once you have the unit apart, you might want to consider changing to the competition springs if you are heavier than average, or do track days, or ride too damn fast on the street.(Rear spring should be changed at the same time). Competition spring set cost $80.

3. When the fork seal leaked on my old bike, I sent them to a suspension specialist for re springing and re valving, which greatly improved the handling.

I tend to look at a repair situation as an opportunity to upgrade.

I guess that's why I have over 50 mod.s to my bike.

Note to self: stop spending money on motorbike.

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Dbird29
Posted on Saturday, November 08, 2008 - 05:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/249047.html?1216094944

Kind of hard to find the old threads.

This one has plenty of pictures.
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Bigredwood
Posted on Saturday, November 08, 2008 - 06:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

YES!

Finally a fork thread with people saying . . . 'Do it Yourself!'

The rebuilding of the front suspension will give you amazing amounts of information about the way a bike handles. Suspension setup isn't an exact science . . . more of a refined art. The best advice I can add is . . . devote a full day to the first time. Take your time.

Each previous post seems spot-on. Homemade seal drivers and 'modified' straps work great. If you are looking for a extra set of triples for a vise . . . try some old dirtbike triples. I know that Honda use to install 43mm tubes on the pre-aluminum frame bikes (pre-'96 CR125's and CR250's). Usually can find them on ebay for less the 30 dollars. The newer bikes are 46mm and you could just have a bushing to keep from scratchin' your tubes.

Good Luck with your rebuild.
Wood
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Wantxbr
Posted on Saturday, November 08, 2008 - 11:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have anyone used this Fork Fluid yet? and how do you like the feel it offers?

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