| Author | Message | ||
     Lecanadysbcglobalnet |
I need to pull my headers off to do the ceramic coating. I just got my Service Manual today and looks to be about a 6 on a scale of 1-10 difficulty for a shade tree mech’ like myself? Krassh told me about watching out for the O2 sen’s, so with the right tools and good scissor jack and a couple modified mm wrenches, it could be done in a day with a little help from a friend. I could use a little advice from a couple of you’s guys that might have dove off into this before. Any Good advice would be greatly appreciated. Krassh if you’re listening please give it up man, I need your words of wisdom. Les | ||
| Two_buells |
you must rotate engine down, follow your service manual lots of stuff to disconnect and remove. | ||
| Chevycummins |
The engine will have to come down slightly. I would remove the rear O2 sensor before you try to get the pipe out so it won't get damaged. Look the bike over very well to get an idea of what needs to be removed before you start. There are a couple of brackets that attach the radiator pods to the engine and frame in the front they are hidden somewhat. Don't force anything or you will pay for it. Take your time. Its been a while since I had my engine down but that seems to be all that I can remember that stood out. Also a 1/4 drive swivel comes in handy for the rear pipe to engine nuts. | ||
| Krassh |
First you do not have to rotate the engine. Oh you also do not have to remove the muffler if you do not want to. Obviously the front header is a piece of cake. The rear is a little challenging. You need a 10mm donor socket you do not care about. Either find some flat bar stock or round stock that while can be bent but does not bend easy. You do want this as thin as possible for clearance behind the rear of the frame. You will need to weld this to the 10mm socket. The length of the "handle" you will be making is up to your personal preference. You need to pull off the plastic block off plate on the right side. Also take off the nut or bolt (can't remember which it is) holding the wire cover that protects the wiring going up the back of the frame. This is so you can get to the connector and fish out the wiring for the rear O2 sensor. Remove the both seats and plastic covering the rear sub frame. Make sure the bike is supported via a jack under the exhaust. Also one thing that might make this easier that I thought about if I was not already committed to a particular path when I did mine. Accessibility might be improved by removing the rear wheel. Remove the upper and lower bolts for the shock. You do not have to remove the shock you just need to move it out of the way. Remove the O2 sensor from the header. you should be able to get a wrench on it from the right side. The biggest thing is to at least break it loose before loosing the nuts on the rear header if possible. You should be able to get to the 2 bottom header nuts from the sides. The top ones you need to approach from the top with your new best friend the special tool you created. If you have not already done so completely remove the O2 sensor. By now you probably should have disconnected the electrical connector and fished the wire and connector down. If not it will twist up when you spin the O2 sensor possibly damaging something. Now after all this you should be able to snake the header out the right side of the bike. This is the fun part. Trust me it will only come out one way. At this point you may be cussing me and wishing you had listened to Two_Buells and rotated the engine. It is kinda of like one of those interlocking puzzles. Once it comes out you will be what the hell it was not that bad. Wait until (how many weeks later) you put it back in and you start thinking you will never remember how you got it out in the first place. Now if you were doing your valve check yourself I would say the heck with it and rotate the engine. I had to wait until my neighbor came home for the weekend as I did not have a welder. I finished all in one day as I bought headers with the ceramic coating already applied from Al at American Sport Bike. All I had to do was pay an additional core charge until I returned the cores to Al. Obviously the reverse to install. One thing to try and remember though. (Do not realize this after you already have the header in, believe me it is a bitch getting it in the second time) Do not forget to lube the threads of the O2 sensor. I used some motor oil otherwise you are going to have a hell of a time screwing that O2 Sensor in while the header is laying behind the motor. Feel free to PM me if you get stuck I can alway shoot you my phone number. It was months ago that I did it but probably remember most of the trouble spots. | ||
| Two_buells |
At this point you may be cussing me and wishing you had listened to Two_Buells and rotated the engine Two Funny! Hey Krassh, did coating the header cut down on some of the heat? Any pictures? }} | ||
| Cringblast |
U all are great !!! Bad Web ROCKS !!!!  | ||
| Two_buells |
I did a "Google 1125 forum search" and seen your header pictures. Looks good, I have to get a set for myself | ||
| Krassh |
If you want to do the core deal through Al I believe it was $199 for the headers plus core and $35 for the heat shield plus core. Did not cut down on the heat that I noticed Fuel still boiled. Even after the last flash the fuel still boils. It does run a little cooler since the last flash though. For anyone else that did not use the search feature like Two_Buells. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/407841.html?1225142555 | ||
| Lecanadysbcglobalnet |
I went by the dealer today to see when the clutch thing might work out and get my beloved “R’’ back, maybe Wed. But he told me 4 hrs for the exhaust thus this thread. I remembered what you had said (Krassh) earlier and it got me to thinkin, “what if I order 09 exhaust (ceramic those) with 09 injectors with 09 map’’??? Or just 09 header with better o2 placement. I ask the service manager he said he would check into it for me. Or just coat the 08s and do what you said without rotating the engine. I manage a Fab/Machine shop and have welded & fabricated for a living for the past 30 yrs (the office is SO much better) so the bar and welding is in hand. I’ll try it in the next 3weeks if the 09 thing is crap and it’s just me dreamin. Does anyone know if the 09 headers and injectors might work with w/ or without a new map? Or if placement of the O2s being in a better l location the 09 tubes, then wouldn’t it give you more precise reading, if I only use the Header and not the injectors? i.e. better performance. Krassh, thanks so much for the info. Might have to take you up on the call. Les | ||
| Krassh |
As far as the 09 headers go it should be no problem. There is I believe enough slack in the wires if you use the original O2 sensors. The sensors should perform their functions better where they are placed on the '09's. I do not think you would need to do anything to the map if you put the 09 headers on. Not sure about the 09 injectors. (Message edited by krassh on October 28, 2008) | ||
| Slypiranna |
It has been proven that the new location of o2 sensors will not give you one benefit...in fact, it hurts, given the latest flash for 08's. If you are going to swap parts, buy everything different, including the 09 ecu. The mapping is completely unique between the two. Stick with what you got. Its proven now, period. (Message edited by slypiranna on October 28, 2008) | ||
| Krassh |
Good info thanks. | ||
| Slypiranna |
Post grip...so as not to invite argument; Latest 08 flash/09 mileage? Latest 08 flash/09 HP? Why? Maybe Buell "listened" to the "popularity" that has been voiced by many, whether right or wrong and delivered an "improved" step? I don't think so. The real cure has already been understood now and none of it related to the changes in the 09. They were already developing/finishing/producing the 09's before the "fix" was found. Injectors? Think tighter emission/per million particle...then wrap the mind around a new model year with ever tightening criteria to be met regarding EPA. O2 location? Part of the above along with the fact that dealer maintenance might have been found to be another consideration should a warranty/out of warranty flat rate be needed. An improvement non the less but not absolutely because the engine needed it. (The 08's o2's are well protected within the boundary layer of flow...meaning, not compromised via extreme heat like has been questioned earlier.) If you ride a reflashed 08 versus an 09, "ignorant" of the two, I wager that you'd never understand any difference. The mapping is different because the parameters are different but this can only be measured by splitting hairs. None of which any of us can accurately measure without a few thousand dollars to throw at testing such hypothesis/er... bullshit. I'm just throwing this in because I'd hate to see someone throw a ton of $'s (void the warranty) and time away on unfounded assumption...like I've been guilty of doing in the past!  The education is expensive when you fight it! If we could win at it, we'd be building this bike, not BMC Engineers. Hope this helps and is not taken in the wrong way. Back to R&R'n primaries... (Message edited by slypiranna on October 29, 2008) | ||
| Spectrum |
The education is expensive when you fight it! If we could win at it, we'd be building this bike, not BMC Engineers. +1 Sly. Seems like some just can't resist trying to improve on the original engineers work. This is a little crazy considering the time and resources available to the designing engineers vs an individual. Regardless of how smart or knowledgeable any given individual may be. I'm not saying that mods are not effective or yield improvements. Just that there much more likely to make a difference if the mods are aimed at augmenting the original design rather than changing it. | ||
| Lecanadysbcglobalnet |
OK, I'll stick with cer coat on the headers and muffler. And spend my hard earned $s els where. Like the Ilmberger sides and pan, there so slick. Thinking of doing all in Black, but man Krassh'es crome headers look nice! Thoughts anyone? Les | ||
| Zac4mac |
As far as plastic or skins, isn't somebody in California making some that are a lot cheaper? | ||
| Mquack996 |
I did an experiment last night. I removed and reinstalled the rear header in 1hr and 15min. By removing the swingarm. Removed the belt guards and loosen the rear axle to take the belt off the pulley. The wheel does not need to be removed. Removed the muffler and tape up the right side of the swingarm behind the foot peg and brake assembly. Place a jack under the engine. Remove the 2 bolts that hold the right foot peg support bracket. (this is why you need the tape on the swingarm) Remove the 2 brake line P-clamps on the swing arm to give you some slack in the brake line. You will need to cut down a 6mm "L" allen to do this. Remove the lower rear shock bolt. Make sure you remember the JACK. Loosen the swingarm pivot shaft pinch bolt and remove the pivot shaft. Then just rotate the swingarm down so its out of the way. Make sure there is not a lot of pressure on the rear brake line. Now you can get to the plastic cover easier and disconnect the O2 sensor. Take the 02 sensor out of the header. With the swing arm out of the way all you need is a 10mm universal socket and an extension. (1/4" drive works best) and the header nuts can be easily be removed. Now you can snake the header out. You have a lot more wiggle room now. I have also done this without removing the swing arm like Krash, but this is much easier to get the header nut and get the header out without scratching your engine. If have to wait to reinstall, just put the shock bolt and pivot shaft back in and you can roll out of the way. When putting the muffler back on, it is a little easier if you loosen the 4 front header bolts so you wiggle the front pipe. I also find it easier to put the muffler gaskets about 1/2 way in the the muffler 1st, (so they stick out a bit) then slide it on to the headers. It help lessen the chance of damage to the gaskets. Like I said it took about 1/2hr to remove and 45min to install and torque everything. | ||
| Lecanadysbcglobalnet |
Mquak & Krassh You guys are alright!!! I can’t believe the amount of support here. I got a call from Service Manager Dave at Mancusso HD. He said the parts were in and I could have my bike tomorrow or... because they needed to rotate the engine to install the clutch basket, he would only charge me a ½ hr to take the pipes off…. So I told him go for it and went to calling the coater. The coater said he could get it back to me w/ shipping in 10 days. I told him good deal, I’ll have it to you by Tuesday. That was at 4pm. By the time I got home I had weighed my options and called Dave back. I told him just give me my bike back. With winter coming fast, this will just have to wait!!! So when I do this thing, I'll use all the wonderful advice and instruction you guys have offered up and do it myself. By the way, I called a different coater in Nebraska. He’ll do the pipes in Black over Chrome, for $135.00 and the muffler for $50.00. He said they've had their best results at high temps with blk over chrome in comparison to either black or chrome by it's self w/ a 3-400 degree decrease in temps. We’ll see how it goes. Again thanks for the help, Les | ||
| Mquack996 |
Les, What wrong with the clutch basket that it needs to be replaced. | ||
| Lecanadysbcglobalnet |
Since day one I’ve never had good clutch. I thought it was just in need of the new flash. But man it was like riding in a rodeo!!! So when I took it to get the 550mile stuff done they looked at it and said it was the slave cylinder. Then the second time the pressure plate bearing was walking in and out and they replaced the Master Cylinder. Third time it was the clutch plates them selves that were installed wrong from the vendor. Now they are replacing the entire clutch basket and the right pod, brake lever, and clutch cover from loosing clutch totally while making a U'y at a gas station parking lot. When I came to a stop the clutch reengaged. It lunged forward and I caught it by the right bar as the left bar slipped out of my hand and I had to lay it down as easy as possible on my right leg. I had picked the bike up just the day before from being in the shop for that whole week. The last fix lasted all of 1 hr. I’ve satisfied the lemon law twice over, here in TX. But I get it back today and hope all is well. They still don't know what is causing it, their just changing parts. They as in Buell eng. and the dealership mechs. But one thing is true, the bearing was walking (i.e. vibration in my opinion, that thing is very tightly pressed in there) and the clutch plates had been installed wrong from Buells outside Vendor, not my opinion. I saw it with my own 4 eyes. THIS SUX BIG TIME I JUST WANT MY BIKE BACK!!!!!!!!! I’ve only ridden it when it was running right for an 1 1/2 hrs. and loved it. Not sure you wanted to know all that but, that’s the long and short of it. Any thoughts? Les | ||
| Jespo_m2 |
Do you miss working on your tuber yet? Sorry.. I couldn't resist... and I want one of 1125 things too!! |
