| Author | Message | ||
     Firebolt32 |
In in couple hundred miles I'll be hitting 10k. I've looked at the manual to see what is required. I've done my 5k myself and would like to do the 10k myself as well. Everything seems to be self explanatory. I'll need to pick up a wobble extension to replace the spark plugs. I also saw that a TPS reset needs to be performed. I don't have ECMspy. TPS reset can only be done with ECMspy correct? I can turn a wrench and would rather service my bike myself. I'm wanting to learn my 9r inside and out for I'd like to build my own some time down the road. For anyone who has done servicing on their own bike, can you give me a heads up on what I am to expect. Any tips would be helpful. Thank in advance. | ||
| Darthane |
TPS resets can be done by ECMSpy, some software for a Palm (dunno the name), or (of course) by a dealer. The biggest chunk of the 10K service is the front forks, although a 2007 probably has the extended service time on the fork oil...20K? Even if you do have to do it at 10K, it's considerably easier than it sounds. The service manual is spot-on for the procedure. First time took me a few hours; I'm sure I could get it done a lot faster the next time around. ...other than that, it's all fairly simple general maintenance stuff - spark plugs, primary chain, new fluids, inspect this and that. Nothing a liesurely afternoon in the garage and some fairly common tools can't handle. | ||
| Firebolt32 |
I didn't see anything about changing the fork oil. I'll look again. It seems pretty straight forward. Just wanted to see if there would be any headaches I'd run into. I've downloaded ECMSpy and now just have to get the cable. | ||
| Firebolt32 |
I do have to change the fork oil. With not having the proper tools and never doing this, I'm going to take it in to be changed. I can watch the guys do it where I take my bike so maybe I'll learn something. I will be doing everything else though. I ordered the connector needed to make my ECMSpy cable. So I know I'll have a few questions on that when the time arrives. Also what do you guys recommend for a brand of spark plugs? | ||
| Andymnelson |
Do the oil yourself. I never have either, but am due now. I called a good local dealer that's good with Buell stuff and they quoted me $200 plus parts (around $50) if I take the forks off, $300 plus parts if I just bring the bike in. I figure for $350, I'm MUCH better off buying the couple of necessary tools and learning the procedure myself (I'll likely put another 20,000 on this bike, so I'll be saving over $1000 in the long run), I don't need to trust my bike to some shop I don't know, and I can upgrade the springs in the process with my saved money. Saweet. | ||
| Darthane |
The fork oil really isn't a big deal. The only tool I *HAD* to buy was a big wrench to get the cap off the top of the fork. I bought a level filler just for pure laziness' sake. It took me a few hours the first time, and was far and away the most in-depth thing I'd ever done to my bikes. The service manual describes the process extremely well, and while it's plenty of steps, it really isn't difficult. Personally, I'd recommend you do it yourself, but ultimately it comes down to what you're comfortable with. | ||
| Moosestang |
I just read the manual. the fork oil change looks like a PITA! Do you absolutely need all the special tools? There's a fork tube holder, spring compressor, oil level gauge. They can't make a front fork with a drain and fill plug?  | ||
| Firebolt32 |
(Message edited by firebolt32 on September 17, 2008) | ||
| Firebolt32 |
With my mom working for the stealership, I had her by me oil and price the tools needed to do the fork oil change. She says they told her I didn't have to change it until 20k and that I shouldn't do it because it's too hard. I believe the book said 10k correct. And with the proper tools it doesn't look to be that hard of a job. Time consuming yes...hard, doesn't look like it. | ||
| Darthane |
Fork tube holder and spring compressor - no, you do not need. The fork tubes need to be held upright. Anything you can find to do the job will do the job, you certainly don't need a special tool for that. I'm not sure why on earth you'd need a spring compressor unless you completely disassembled the fork. Oil level gauge - that I bought. You could probably make one fairly easily, but I purchased mine. It's essentially a tube marked in millimeters attached to a syringe. You can set the depth to the appropriate level, dump in a bunch of fork oil, and then simply expand the syringe to suck out the extra. Seriously, it really is not as bad as it seems at first glance. A few hours if you're doing it the first time and want to be extra careful. Of COURSE they'd say it's 'too hard'. If you succumb and have them do it, they get to charge you obscene labor rates! (Message edited by darthane on September 23, 2008) | ||
| Moosestang |
Darthane, just looking at the procedure in the manual, it does look like you are disassembling the whole forks. Did you go by the manual? What year bike has the 20k service interval or did Harley just decide it isn't necessary until 20k. | ||
| Firebolt32 |
Definitely not going to buy the tools from them. Parts guy claims they are about $600. I could buy the tools from Al, fluids and sparks plugs still being close to the price as the stealerships fork oil change cost. I'm doing to the fork oil change. I want to know this bike inside and out. Just want to make it as easy as possible. | ||
| Darthane |
Yes - I'd never done it before, so I followed the service manual to a 'T'. It's been a while since I did it, now, but I certainly don't remember needing anything to compress the springs. The only special tools I bought or needed was a really big wrench (22mm?) and the oil level gauge. If I remember, when I'm out in the garage making use of my new table saw this evening, I'll thumb back through it and see how it jives with my memory of the bonding event. I can't imagine that the procedure is any different, though the forks themselves are (bigger diameter; but to my knowledge they are still the same 'type' of fork). | ||
| Firebolt32 |
I'm going to run with it. If I screw it up, I screw it up. Dart...did you purchase all the rings, bushings, etc. when you did the fork oil change? Or did everything look good enough to reuse? | ||
| Gowindward |
If you completely disassemble the fork tube then the bushings get trashed in the process and you'll need to replace them. Completely disassembling the fork tube is not required to change the oil. You do need to compress the spring to be able to take the spring load off the damper rod assembly. That's required to be able to pump the oil out of the damper rod to do a "complete" oil change. Some on the board here have used a ratchet type strap clamp to compress the spring. Traxxion makes a compressor for about $30.00 Race Tech makes tools also, but are professional grade so to speak and cost more. One tip is to loosen the fork cap before removing from the triple clamps. Without the fork clamp tool the triple clamps is about the only way to hold onto the fork tube tight enough to be able to loosen the fork cap. Buy the right size wrench/ socket too, the caps are aluminum and easy to screw up with a cheap adjustable wrench. Check out the knowledge vault for more info and photos. | ||
| Firebolt32 |
Thanks for the info. I saw that Traxxion compressor. Looks like a good deal. I've searched BadWeb and have come up with more than enough info to do this. This place is full of useful info. | ||
| Mr_gto |
"If I screw it up, I screw it up." Dont take this job lightly! It is easy to rebuild your forks, but you want to make sure you do it right!!! I am not trying to scare you away from this task, just to make sure you take it seriously. Its your life you are dealing with. A failure of of your forks at highway speeds because of a mistake could be very costly. Just looking out for a fellow BadWebber! |
