| Author | Message | ||
     Moosestang |
The manual shows 29-31ft lbs of torque for the oil drain plug. Is that for both primary and swing arm plugs? Both of mine were no where near 30ft lbs. I noticed they both had an o-ring and some teflon paste on the threads. I torqued them to 25 ft lbs just to be safe. | ||
| Birdy |
After reading all the post here on striped swing arm I just snug it up. 30FP on a bolt that size in ALU is over kill anyway I think. I check it before head out anyway along with the tires. Now the teflon paste I don't know about but teflon tape will bring out the monsters here! | ||
| Mad_doctor |
Teflon Tape is a absolute NO NO, same with silicone. Silicone works Great on bathtubs and Boobs, and a Buell doesn't have either one! Teflon paste works well on threaded plugs, (not only for sealing, But to retain the plug also). Just be certain the paste is not by the end of the part being inserted into the hole. Most of the paste products are anerobic, which means they only harden with lack of oxygen, which means, if you DO get some inside, it will not harden and cause problems. (just my $.02) | ||
| Adrenaline_junkie |
After I stripped mine and spent well over $100 fixing it, I asked the same question. The answer I got was 12 ft-lbs. A full description can be found in this thread. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/406 2/344452.html | ||
| Moosestang |
Well I hope I didn't strip them. I did put some new teflon paste on the outer most threads and didn't notice any leaks. | ||
| Swordsman |
There are people using torque wrenches on an oil drain plug?  Tighten until it's..... tight. ~SM | ||
| Aeholton |
There are people using torque wrenches on an oil drain plug? Always seemed a little anal retentive to me.  | ||
| Ez_rider |
There are people using torque wrenches on an oil drain plug? That's what the service manual (and owner's manual) calls for...believe it or not. | ||
| Akbuell |
Having read the horror stories about this, I decided not to follow the book this time. I went to the hardware store and got a #59 (.041 dia) drill bit. (Actually, get 2-3; they wear out fast.) Both drain plugs have a hole in the center of the head, so it's easy to drill them. There is a clamp to an oil line under the swingarm, so I fabbed a bracket, put a hole in that, snugged the plug up, and safetied the darn thing. Did the same w/the primary plug, looping the wire around the head of one of the primary cover bolts. | ||
| Lost_in_ohio |
I am a snug so it doesn't leak kinda guy myself. So how many torque wrench guys have stripped their plugs??? A bunch one or two a month here bitching about it. " I torqued it to their spec". Ah none mechanics. | ||
| Moosestang |
I always use a torque wrench. What do you do when you change spark plugs? Just snug doesn't cut it IMO. Torque specs are given for a reason and torque wrenches are available for a reason. The only reason to not own a torque wrench if you work on your vehicles is because you are to cheap to buy one. | ||
| Paint_shaker |
My logic behind using a torque wrench on the drain plug; If it strips out or falls out, I did what I was instructed to and they SHOULD cover it... That being said, I believe "gud-n-tight" will be a better practice. | ||
| Moosestang |
I should clarify that I always use a torque wrench when aluminum is involved. I've never used a torque wrench on my cars drain plug, but it's all steel. It's easy to surpass torque specs when using the "gud-n-tight" method, specially if it's 20ft lbs or less and you have a good sized wrench or ratchet. gud-n-tight is all relative to the length of your ratchet. | ||
| Azxb9r |
Always seemed a little anal retentive to me. anal-retentive should have a hyphen. Sorry, I could not help myself.  | ||
| Buellinachinashop |
I tack-welded mine to be safe. | ||
| Azxb9r |
Back on topic, the torque specs. are for clean dry threads. After draining your oil, you are going to have oil on the threads in the swing arm, which skews the torque reading. By lubricating the threads, you cut down the amount of friction it takes to turn the bolt, which increases the clamping force, which can lead to a stripped swing arm if using the factory specs. | ||
| Nik |
The feel of a skilled wrench isn't much less accurate than that of a torque wrench. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Did not! (that would be aluminum to steel, you hafta use sliver solder.  ) | ||
| Damnut |
Yea I'm wondering the same thing...... why folks torque their drain plugs? I believe that a good mechanic should know when things are tight, shouldn't they? They shouldn't have to rely on a wrench to tell them whether something is tight or not. I think that after turning so many wrenches that I have a built in torque wrench in my arm.  Just my opinion, don't have to flame me. IN MY OPINION... torque wrenched should be used on engines. Everything else just gets plain ole tightened......... With some locktite of course.......... | ||
| Lost_in_ohio |
I own 4 different torque wrenches in various sizes and graduations. Yep I use it on the rear axle | ||
| Moosestang |
Damnut, remind me never to let you work on my suspension! I'd love to see you feel 140 ft lbs. | ||
| Skinstains |
Isn't over-tightening as American as hot dogs and apple pie ? | ||
| Damnut |
Damnut, remind me never to let you work on my suspension! I'd love to see you feel 140 ft lbs. You're kinda making my point. I don't have to feel 140 ft lbs. I know when something is tight. I don't need a torque wrench to tell me. Let the flaming begin!!! | ||
| Voofighters |
I believe in torque specs. I got a torque wrench in my toolbox to back that up with. I also believe in Gud'n Tight. I have dust on my torque wrench to back that up with as well. Im wiht damnut on this, most everything gets the "built in torque wrench", unless it's a life threatening bolt that says, "caution, torque to this much!" then ill bust out the t.wrench. Loctite is your buddy. | ||
| Moosestang |
Isn't over-tightening as American as hot dogs and apple pie ? Yes it is, that's why there are inch lb torque wrenches.  | ||
| Xl1200r |
I think once you've torqued something down enough times, you don't need the wrench anymore. When I was working as a mechanic, the shop instituted a rule where every wheel that came off had be torqued back on to spec. Most cars were 80-110 lbs/ft. I got pretty good at knowing when I was at 100 lbs/ft either by hand, or with a burp gun. | ||
| Buellinachinashop |
"(that would be aluminum to steel, you hafta use sliver solder.)" Good thing I work for a welding company! | ||
| Adrenaline_junkie |
I was using the "good-n-tight" approach. I was also doing the all-american overtight is better. Using the box end of a standard 5/8" Craftsman combination wrench I ran it up snug and then gave it one pull for tight. It didn't get tight. From now on I WILL use the torque wrench on this particular item and I will torque it to 12 ft-lbs. | ||
| Moosestang |
I went ahead and backed both out and torqued to 15 ft lbs. No threads came out, so I guess I didn't do any damage. My aluminum ford heads call for 25 ft lbs for the spark plugs, but i've always done 20-22 just to be safe. Adrenaline junkie, how was the install with the time-sert. Did you just drill it out and then screw in the plug? Looks like a good alternative to buying a new swing arm. | ||
| Adrenaline_junkie |
Yes it is just about that easy. The kit come with the drill bit. The is also a special tool in the kit to cut the shoulder for the insert to seat against. I feel like this repair actually gives me a better setup than the bike had from the factory. (steel threads to steel threads)I did put some LocTite Red on the insert before I installed it though I'm sure it isn't needed. | ||
| Rhun |
So if the threads on swing arm and bolt are dry then 25 ft lbs? If oily then 12 foot pounds? Last time I tried a torque wrench on my drain plug I chickened out before I hit 25, just seemed too tight for that size of bolt and aluminum and the length of my torque handle. A 'good' mechanic should be able to tighten by feel, but I'm guessing a good number here aren't or have an occasional bad day! | ||
| Moosestang |
Rhun, the manual says 29-31 ft lbs, but the consensus is that is too much. I originally torqued mine to 25 because I couldn't see tightening it to 30 ft lbs. | ||
| 1313 |
29-31 ft lbs is definitely too much! There have been people on BadWeB that have stripped the threads using that torque spec. And it pisses me off that my updated '08 Service Manual - to include the XB12XT - doesn't have this corrected! Today when I was doing my 10K service I said 15 ft lbs should be enough, which it was. When I went to put the primary drain plug in, it's spec (for the same darn drain plug into Aluminum) was something like 12-18 (which averages out to 15 ft lbs...). Why does it take Tech Pubs so darn long to correct an obvious, blatant error? 1313  |
