| Author | Message | ||
     Nautique4life |
-------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ OK, I am new to the site in general and searched for the thread and found only a couple posting on where people have discussed this. SO, I over torqued the nut on my upper rear exhaust stud and twisted it off. It broke down in the the motor. I understand this is good. After a lengthy convo with Al, and phone calls to HD/Buell that don't do machine work, I am ready to purchase a JIMS Exhaust Stud Drill Plate to attempt removal by myself. If any one has one that they (hope they) don't need anymore, please let me know. Im sure someone will tell me I did this wrong, but I will try to learn for all of you. Thanks in advance. | ||
| Al_lighton |
Note that John said Upper Rear. This is on an XB. Has anyone successfully extracted that stud with the Jim's tool on that particular stud without REMOVING the engine from the frame, at least partially? Obviously it has to be pivoted down in the front, but even with that, access looks difficult to get in there with a drill. Right angle drill head? Has anyone dropped the motor off the front and rear isolators without actually separating it from the frame? Or do you suppose it is time to disconnect ALL attachments/umbilicals to the engine and drop it completely out? What is less work, dropping the engine out of the frame, or pulling the head? I'm guessing dropping the engine from the frame, as once it has been pivoted down, it's essentially just the shock and rear isolator to separate the whole engine/swingarm/rearwheel assy from the frame, I think. But I've never had to do it on my XBs. Bummer job, good luck, John. | ||
| Nautique4life |
Thanks for the positive words, Al. I have found a shop that will drop the motor from frame for me, but the mech. said he has done stud removal before, but will prefer not to do it? This put me at great un-ease and left me with little confidence. He went on to say he used to own a XB9 and was largely familiar with the bike break down. Up goes my confidence. After many conversations and some coordination took place, the mechanic is letting a guy I know (a machinist) come to his shop and perform the extraction, using the JIMS tool. I can now sleep again... P.S. This is taking place next week.. I will let everyone know how it turns out and how hard I get hit in the wallet. | ||
| Haven564 |
Today my exhaust stud broke off flush with the head on my 02 x1. It's on the front head so there is easy access. Does the stud go all the way through to the inside of the cylinder head? I am just wondering b/c if I was to use the Jim's tool I didn't know whether that would leave metal shavings on the inside. Has anyone ever welded onto the existing stud and turned it out? Just wondering the easiest and least cost effective way. thanks | ||
| Reepicheep |
It does not go all the way in. The Jims tool seems to always work. Welding a nut has been known to work as well, but that seems to me to carry more risk. If it were me, I would use the Jims tool. | ||
| Haven564 |
Alright I'll have to give it a try..thanks | ||
| Flatliner_dnr |
I used the Jim's tool on my '07 12S when I over torqued my upper front stud, much easier I'm sure than the rear. Almost fool proof, just use cutting fluid and back out the bit every minute or so to clear the flutes and apply more fluid, you'll be done in no time. You definitely want to use a tap to clean out the threads after drilling. If it were me, I'd drop the whole engine to do it, rotating the engine is pretty simple, if you've got the manual removing the engine is pretty simple too, just watch your oil lines. If you've got a drill press, then I'd just go ahead and remove the head, make a little jig to hold the head and use the press, way easier than standing on your head for 30 minutes to drill the stud out. | ||
| Torquemonster |
Something must be going around...my upper front stud broke off flush with the head last night. My helper wants to drill it out, but Im thinking JIMS tool. Anyone have one collecting dust? | ||
| Jsimpkins |
I've broke three upper rear exhaust studs on my X1, and I drilled and tapped them all out. Last one I tried to back out using a reverse tap. Dang thing broke in the stub. It was hard carbon steel and I could not drill it out either. So I bought a Carbide mill bit and used a Dremel Tool to "chip" at it until I had it all out. What a bugger. Haven't snapped one in 10000 miles so I guess I solved problem number #256. The solution, I used a stud I bought for my Continental Aircraft Engine. They are an exact match size wise..but a heck of a lot stronger. www.aircraftspruce.com is were you can get them. Get the ones for a E-225-8 Continental. J- | ||
| 5liter |
Jsimpkins: These? http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/mani foldnuts.php | ||
| Tazmania720 |
I hope those are not the "stronger" studs. Last time I checked brass is a lot softer than steal. |
