| Author | Message | ||
     Miko_k |
This takes some time to finish and another upper triple clamp (thanks Corey!) but it really improved the feel of the bike, along with the Lightning pegs that I put on it, took the better part of my sunday, but it was worth it! http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web /2458000-2458999/2458244_256_full.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web /2458000-2458999/2458244_257_full.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web /2458000-2458999/2458244_258_full.jpg | ||
| Gjwinaus |
Hey Miko, tell me about the attachment of the handle bar receivers to the triple clamp body, did you weld it, screw it, glue it , I'm interested as I was about to by Helibars as well | ||
| Bombardier |
Looks like cut off, weld and then repaint. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Looks great Miko. Could you possibly add a bit more information. Looks like you cut the tubes that hold the handlebars off of one triple clamp, and then welded it on top of another one. Is that correct? How much did the bars go up? I assume that they did not go back as well? | ||
| Gjwinaus |
Jon, It looks like "up" and "back" just like the Helibars. | ||
| Miko_k |
The idea was up and back, I cut off at the opening for the handlebars, milled both sides to be flush with the rear side of the handlebar holes (to keep the angle of the bars). The second triple clamp I cut about the middle between the handlebar hole and the fork hole, clamped 1 handlebar in the mill vise and milled both pieces on the same bar, true to each other (the indexers inside helped) then welded, cleaned up the welds a bit and repainted, drilled new holes in the handlebars( they are rotated 90 degrees now) for the switchgear and done. The handlebars are about an inch narrower now and distance to tank at lock is close, but can't hit fingers. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
I think I get it now. Very nicely done indeed. The next time you do a cool project like this, Miko, I am sure everyone would appreciate it if you took photos at various stages of construction. Those bars definitely look like a factory job. Too bad the bike doesn't come with them!!  | ||
| Miko_k |
I forgot to mention my little momentary switch on the right switchgear that is barely visible on the pics- it opens up the valve in the muffler as long as it is pressed, sounds cool and is like "noise on demand"  It was relatively easy to do, just a normally closed relay between the ECM and the servo and a momentary switch wired to the ignition relay of the bike. let me know of you guys want the wiring diagram. | ||
| Skully |
Miko, Did you do any sort of post-weld heat treatment? Keith | ||
| Miko_k |
No, just smoothed the welds and painted it. | ||
| Randomchaos |
Wow that looks good! Nice clean work you have done there. | ||
| Skully |
You did an excellent job with your craftsmanship. The welding of aluminum with no post heat treatment concerns me. A heavy rider pulling a 1 G stop will exert over 1000 lbs/fork leg on the top triple tree. The force will try to break out the triple tree right where the welding occurred. Welding aluminum reduces the strength by approximately 40% depending on the alloy and temper. You may want to consider heat treating the top tree to regain some of the strength. Keith | ||
| Iamarchangel |
I asked this question on another forum but this looks like a good place. What are the two holes along the length of the bars for? Curious about this mod since my wrist still hurts from the long ride last week and I suspect the bar position. I agree with Skully, great craftmanship and you should look into heat treatment. Aluminum also has some weird heat and cooling behavior so you're never sure what you've got. | ||
| Miko_k |
Thanks for the advice, but I won't do anything special to this piece. Quite a bit of aluminum went into it on the bottom, where the hollow part was and the weld area is quite large. If it breaks, I will pay for being cheap, if not, 1 for me  |
