| Author | Message | ||
     Atoms |
Forgive me for even asking this, but I'm in the process of moving and my shop manual is at the old house. I was gonna just have a dealer do the 5k for my Uly, but they can't get to it until after a long trip I'm planning, so I'm gonna do at least the fluid change parts of it myself. I will use the shop manual to do the service, but I can't get to it to find out what I need before I'll be stopping by the dealer to fetch some other stuff. So if y'all could help me put together a 5k service shopping list I'd be most grateful. She has been using the HD synthetic since the 1k, so we don't need to argue about what to put in. I just need to know how much to get. (And thanks, I am well aware of the drain bolt torque typo/mistake. ) | ||
| Chrisrogers3 |
1 qt oil for primary 2.5 qts for engine oil filter primary inspection cover gasket Clutch inspection cover gasket spring tool for resistance test Cable lube Thats it off the top of my head. I am sure I am missing something but it will get you started. | ||
| Atoms |
Thanks Chris! Brace yourselves for a really dumb question. Ready? Primary and engine can use the same type of oil? | ||
| Desert_bird |
Atoms, I may be mistaken, but I don't think you need to touch the primary oil for the 5k service, just the 10K. | ||
| Uly1080 |
Atoms, Yes the Primary and engine CAN use the same type of oil, but the book calls for Formula + for the Primary. I've used both, and both have worked fine. Good Luck! | ||
| Froggy |
Primary is at 10k intervals. Also, use Formula+ for it, as there is a link between failed stators and using wrong primary juice. | ||
| Xbimmer |
My dealer put in Syn3 in both places for my 1k. I stopped using Syn3 by my 10k. Ran M1 V-Twin in the gear case for a bit but went back to Formula+. I change the gear case oil at 5k with the engine oil, drain it well then add 1 qt. The gaskets will last for several changes but they're cheap anyway if you want to change them. My swingarm has always taken more than 2.5 quarts to fill, more like 2.75 or so. That's just to get it above the Low mark when cold about 1/3. I've never bothered with the resistance test, just retorqued the steering head capnut to spec 38-42 ft/lbs. Upper pinch bolt to 23-25 and lower triple clamp bolts to 20-22, red LocTite on all. You don't loosen the upper triple clamp fasteners. Get some extra o-rings for the drain plugs, mine always come out shredded next oil change. Closely inspect your wheel bearing seals for anything weird, and your belt. Run your wrenches front to back to make sure everything's snug, including the battery posts. That's about all I can think of right now. | ||
| Florida_lime |
Primary is at 10k intervals. Also, use Formula+ for it Froggy is correct, but I change my Formula+ every 5000 miles when I change my engine oil. That gives me the opportunity to check/adjust my primary chain, and adjust my clutch while the oils are draining. Peace of mind for the price of 1 quart of Formula+ ....... | ||
| Chrisrogers3 |
Hey good call froggy. I am a bit OCD and change my primary oil when I change my engine oil. I forgot the actual interval is every 10K for the primary. and +1 on the piece of mind aspect of it. I usually seem to have a bit of the milky white (water contaminated) substance in my primary so it doesnt bother me changing it sooner than later. |
