G oog le Buell 1125R Forum | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile


Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through August 10, 2008 » Got some info on the remap. « Previous Next »

  Thread Last Poster Posts Pages Last Post
Archive through August 04, 2008Reepicheep30 08-04-08  06:41 pm
         

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Fresnobuell
Posted on Monday, August 04, 2008 - 06:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would gladly pay thousands of dollars for a remap that stopped those ridiculously noisy fans from running after i shut my bike off.

Wrong brand if you have a fan-phobia...I still don't understand the big deal about fans. If the electrical wasn't a concern, I would want my fans to run longer...
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jotrevza
Posted on Monday, August 04, 2008 - 08:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey Gang,

My simple notions of retaining heat are challenged!

My understanding is that when you wrap header pipes, for instance, you are actually gaining the benefit of "scavenging" more of the exhaust mixture as it leaves. I've heard that now from several different sources, but, doesn't it also stand to reason that it "traps" more heat in the places you don't really want it trapped in??? I would think that it would also concentrate more heat in the pipe itself,(wherever wrapped) especially up nearer to to the head, which, could be detrimental to the engine over the long haul......

Anyone care to share their expert thoughts on this? I'm certainly not an expert on this subject.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Xl1200r
Posted on Monday, August 04, 2008 - 09:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wrapping the headers will increase the level of heat inside the header, but lower the temps outside.

The scientific reason for wrapping headers is hot exhaust can move and change direction faster than cold exhaust.

The *real* advantage is insulating everything around the headers from the heat. Hopped up cars typically use it to lower underhood temps. I've used to keep a spark plug boot from melting on a poorly designed header.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Hayabusa
Posted on Monday, August 04, 2008 - 09:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I know that they will be able to lower the temp of the engine to a certain point, but I don't believe that it will be enough to keep heat from transferring into the fuel and cooking it off as well as your leg hair. My 600 used to run at 218 in traffic, and my frame NEVER got hot because it was a solid piece of metal. Like I have stated before the heat must be directed away from the frame and the fuel for people to stop getting burned. The rear header comes within an inch and a half of the frame...I have never heard of exhaust gasses being cooled terribly much by the spark curve...combustion is combustion. The pipes will get hot and transfer heat to the frame. I hope there is an engineer somewhere that can prove me worng...or even better, I want Buell to prove me wrong so that when people ask me about the bike I don't have to list the problems after I tell them that it is the best handling bike I haver ridden.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ccryder
Posted on Tuesday, August 05, 2008 - 12:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hmm, once the system reaches equilibrium, the wrapping no longer acts like an insulator unless, there is some means to remove the heat. The reason the drag people use this technique is that they are trying to keep the heat in the headers to get the hot gas to flow.

After an hour or so at temp, the wrap is almost at the same temp as the header below it. If you added fins, for more surface area it would be MUCH more effective. Just my $0.02, somebody get their thermo 101 book out and prove me wrong. I launched mine after 4 semesters!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Slypiranna
Posted on Tuesday, August 05, 2008 - 02:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Don't take off your home hot water heater's insulation wrap this winter or the pipes might freeze.

Same principles apply, LESS btu transfer (per unit of time) to adjacent fluid (air in this case).

Insulation works. The quality of the materials and the methods of application are what most dictate the overall success rate. Hope that makes sense: )
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Zac4mac
Posted on Tuesday, August 05, 2008 - 06:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wrapping the pipes, aka insulating, slows the radiated heat.
If done right, this results in more heat out the tail than radiated out the sides.

Haven't felt the need to wrap mine.
I did mirror-polish the inside of the heat-shield, so I could "flat-black" it.
I can touch the heat-shield, while running, without leaving flesh behind.

As MM said, insulation works.

Z
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Court
Posted on Tuesday, August 05, 2008 - 07:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

>>>>Wrong brand if you have a fan-phobia..

Interesting. I rode about 470 miles yesterday . . . . probably 55 off road (by the way for those of you in New Jersey I found a GREAT place that is shown on the Zumo 550 as "paved" road and is not . . . ) and each and every time I stopped . . . . the fan would run for at least 5 minutes.

I think I'll call BMW today and threaten to sue.

: )

Never bothered me nor anyone around me.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ccryder
Posted on Tuesday, August 05, 2008 - 08:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Those darn fans, can't live with em', can't live w/o em'!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Rfischer
Posted on Tuesday, August 05, 2008 - 08:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The technical reason for header wrap [or ceramic coating] is to keep exhaust gas
temperatures up to maintain velocity through the exhaust system. Headers are made of thin-wall tubing and will give up heat; one reason why OEM auto mfr's use cast iron exhaust manifolds [the other being durability]. And, in truth, this means next-to-nothing in a street application. Wrapping the header on your 1125 will offer temporary respite from radiated heat, but will at some point equalize and you're back to square-one. Ceramic coatings work better because they actually "insulate" by reflective process.

Why yes, I WAS an engineering whiz-kid in law school....
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Bigblock
Posted on Thursday, August 07, 2008 - 09:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This isn't really so, the insulation transfers heat to the air with much less efficiency than metal, hence part of it's insulATING PROPERTIES, SO EVEN IF IT "EQUALIZES", you will still be dumping way less heat around your motor, and more heat will be staying in the pipe.

You may have been an engineering wiz in law school, but your ideas here are innaccurate...

(maybe not as bad as my typing...)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Misterrich
Posted on Thursday, August 07, 2008 - 09:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I do long rides on my bike all the time. usually around 13 hours. Not only did i wrap my entire pipes but i double wrapped them. It made a world of difference. The heat transfer is cut down drastically and i know this because im not getting burned anymore.
My word is Law. So sayeth the Rich
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Bob_thompson
Posted on Thursday, August 07, 2008 - 09:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Maybe I should post this on another heat related thread but here goes; I do believe that at least some heat can be pulled away from the frame by keeping a near full tank when you can and especially when you are going to park it for the night or anticipating getting caught in rush hour traffic as in your daily commute. Just do not overfill it as others have noted. The fuel in the tank can and will act as a great heat sink but not if its too low, it will probably just boil the remaining fuel. No problems here in 95-100 degrees when doing this. We used to amaze people at our boy scout camp outs by boiling water in a paper cup and not having it catch on fire. This DOES work. FWIW file. Bob

And as Rich noted above all these things will help us enjoy our great 1125's much more. We just need to ride "with knowledge"

(Message edited by bob_thompson on August 07, 2008)
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a public posting area. Enter your username and password if you have an account. Otherwise, enter your full name as your username and leave the password blank. Your e-mail address is optional.
Password:
E-mail:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration