Author |
Message |
5liter
| Posted on Friday, August 29, 2008 - 10:47 am: |
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The drive belt finally broke at 41,0000 miles. Time for some down time....... |
Phelan
| Posted on Friday, August 29, 2008 - 10:49 am: |
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I feel ya. Mine broke tuesday with 26K. |
5liter
| Posted on Friday, August 29, 2008 - 11:17 am: |
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I guess we can now join "The Order of The Broken Belt".......... |
Scott_in_nh
| Posted on Friday, August 29, 2008 - 12:30 pm: |
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I used this method, but it did not require a long pipe. I was able to compress the isolator just using the wrench. It takes some time but is not difficult and the price is right! http://danielcstarr.googlepages.com/replacetuberis olators |
5liter
| Posted on Friday, August 29, 2008 - 12:59 pm: |
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I've got that page printed for reference. I'm going to take my time and do the isolators too. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Friday, August 29, 2008 - 03:21 pm: |
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Got 61K out of my OEM Drive Belt, "BUT" "i" will get more mileage out of the replacement because it started it's life off adjusted correctly from day one ... THINK ABOUT THIS: You do not want to spring/bend the FRAME !!! "SO", you compress the RIGHT ISOLATOR as much as possible ... All it takes to do this is a BOLT, FLAT WASHER, and a NUT !!! |
5liter
| Posted on Friday, August 29, 2008 - 03:59 pm: |
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What size is the isolator torx bolt? Never mind. I found out T-60 (Message edited by 5liter on August 29, 2008) |
Buellistic
| Posted on Friday, August 29, 2008 - 04:35 pm: |
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My 1997 S3T is a 1/2 inch allen ... Bolt size 5/8"-18NF, length "i" got is 6" to compress the RIGHT ISOLATOR ... You have to screw the bolt all the way in till it stops and have enough room(threads) for the nut and washer to do the compressing ... |
Ebutch
| Posted on Friday, August 29, 2008 - 10:46 pm: |
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Scott in NH:Thank you!!!!!!!Very Nice!!!!!Butch |
Mbsween
| Posted on Saturday, August 30, 2008 - 12:17 am: |
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Jeez, I'm on my 3rd belt at ~35K. must be all the wheelies Stocker lasted to 12K, broke at a dealer. Next one made it too 35K. Hoping this one makes to 50K. Oh yeah its the original part and its running scary loose. |
Eshardball
| Posted on Sunday, August 31, 2008 - 11:43 pm: |
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For what its worth, I spread the frame with just a 5/16 x 1" bolt with a couple washers to keep the bolt head from digging into the swingarm block and just turned a nut out against the frame to get the right iso out. My belt was Ok@ 18K and the iso swap took just over 2hrs. It seems alot scarier than it is once you do it. |
Kalali
| Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2008 - 11:03 am: |
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"...Hoping this one makes to 50K. Oh yeah its the original part and its running scary loose." The belt on my X1 was also "Scary" loose when I got the bike and everybody told me that's the way it should be. Just to be sure, I did an experiment...Rode the bike for a while to get things all nice and warm..turned the motor off..stayed on the seat and asked my wife just to sit behind me...then pressed on the belt...to my surprise almost no deflection whatsoever! The thing was tight as a drum. Now I am convinced as why it should be "scary" loose! |
Skntpig
| Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2008 - 03:21 pm: |
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Scary loose goes for chains too... |
5liter
| Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2008 - 04:48 pm: |
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Anybody know what this plugged hole is for? Just curious.
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Scott_in_nh
| Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2008 - 04:55 pm: |
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I think it held the inner part of the mold so that the casting would be hollow. |
5liter
| Posted on Friday, September 05, 2008 - 08:49 pm: |
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Haven't started just yet. Still looking for an open spot in the garage to work on it. (Message edited by 5liter on September 05, 2008) |
5liter
| Posted on Friday, September 26, 2008 - 08:03 pm: |
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Finally got it done. I used the home made tool described here: http://danielcstarr.googlepages.com/replacetuberis olators It worked like a champ.I used two 2 inch pipe nipples and a cut off grade 8 stove bolt. The only real problem I had was lining up the isolator and the hole for the bolt. Now it's time to do a little detailing while it's still apart. |