| Author | Message | ||
     Easy_rider |
I managed to blow the crank seal (I think) at 21K miles. While roaming the Badweb looking for suggestions I came across a post that suggested that a number of stators failed at about this point. Now I'm wondering if I should change it "while I'm at it". Any thoughts? I couldn't get by without the resource that is the Badweb. Still, after this weekend's adventure in just getting the seal out, I'm tempted to do a write-up on how repairs go for the rest of us! | ||
| Oldog |
check the KV should be a writeup its likely in the archives. | ||
| Djkaplan |
I'd hate to tell you to change the stator for no good reason, but then again, I'd hate for you to be stranded on the side of the road because you didn't change the stator. Soooo.... ... check where the stator wires are held down by the metal tab inside the primary. Sometimes the tab can wear through the wire insulation and cause a short. I rolled the edge of the tab to keep it from digging into the wires when I was in there, but it really wasn't a problem in my particular bike (it has been in others). Also check where the wire leads go into the stator windings and are sealed. When my stator failed, it looked like the glue that holds the wires in had softened up considerably (to the consistency of soft rubber) and let oil short out the leads. If the stator looks good, otherwise, you might be OK... but definitely triple check where the wires going into the windings. | ||
| Buellistic |
What kills "STATORS" is HEAT ... Adjust your primary chain to 3/4 inch play on the tight chain tight spot ... Have a 104,122.0 miles as of the last ride and still running the original OEM stator/rotor and voltage regulator ... Have changed the battery several times before the last electron was left in it and it killed every thing else ... (Message edited by buellistic on July 28, 2008) |
