| Author | Message | ||
     Bluzm2 |
Damn Bomber, your quick ! With my 1kg springs, I had to shorten up the recommmended length of the preload spacer to get the correct sag. Did you do the same for the 1.1kg springs? With the 7.5W oil, the dampning is at the lowest settings for me, one or two clicks.. I figure the 5W would put them back in the middle of their range allowing more tuning options. | ||
| Bomber |
brad . . .. . .yessir, the 7.5 means my setting are way low, and I'm considering 5 wgt for the same reasons . . . . . . . on spacers, nossir, I followed the destructions to the letter, and everything seems fine . . .sag right on target (with LOTS of room to increase the preload for trackdays if I need to) . . . . nother tool for fork dings is a fine sharpening stone . .. . 2200 grit wet and dry can be hard to find sometimes . . . .. | ||
| Full_throttle |
I'm 6'4 and about 205 - 210lbs. The bike has 13,000 miles on it. May just be normal wear. I'll get the bushings. What is the difference from the 1kg to the 1.1kg? I'll start with the 5 wgt oil. Frank has been looking at the Works rear shock, man I'm jealous. I have the 2001, I have not adjusted it yet. I seem to feel a lot of the road and take some hard hits. Is that the nature of the shock? Just not real plush? Or is that a buell characteristic that takes $ for a Works to solve? Thanks --Chris | ||
| Mikej |
Chris, If you haven't adjusted anything yet then do so before you go spending money on stuff. Find a wrench to fit the shock and set your weighted length to your need (see the service manual for the current measurements), and play around with the front fork settings as well. You may find enough in the adjustments to not feel the need to start swapping springs and such. I may be swapping fork springs on the M2, but will stay with the stock undershock for now. But won't be doing anything like that before next summer. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Chris. If you're 210 lbs, even at max preload you are most likely sagging too low. If you don't have the manual, I'll dig up the sag settings. Regading Mikej's post, do what he said first before spending too much $$$. I'd bet you need springs and oil but check your sag first. | ||
| Mikej |
I'm also thinking it may come down to his riding style and needs and his local geography. For many people in many regions the stock springs are probably fine. But push any of the variables out just a bit and they get a little light when one's weight starts to get a bit over that 180Lb mark and starts to ride a bit more aggressively. | ||
| Bomber |
all true, and good advice . . .. I"m stick to my guns on the springs, though . . . .to get close to the sag measurement, I'd used all of the adjustment available on my Y2K Ma Deuece, and was still bottoming on, ehm, spirited rides over roads that could use some improvement (a.k.a. Rustic Roads in WIsconsin) | ||
| Mikej |
Shoot, for some roads up here you need 2kg springs to keep from bottoming out.  | ||
| Bomber |
yeah, mebbe I should loose some weight! | ||
| Mikej |
You should see how some of the dips in the roads are made up here. We only do this after the tourist season though,  .  | ||
| Full_throttle |
I'm not getting a rear shock for a while! They are Big $'s. I just need to adjust mine and have not done it. I'm sure it will be fine. I like the look of the coil over shocks, but at the $'s, I'll go for the fronts and the carb. Rear shock down the road! As for springs, I figure they would be like a Mountain bike and not meant for a person of my height and weight. Also stock springs are usually not the top-o-the line. for the $, I'll prolly do up the forks with springs and oil. Prolly 1k springs, oil...I don't ride real aggressive...not sue if 7.5 or 5. --Chris edited by full_throttle on October 10, 2003 | ||
| Wboo |
HELP)! Can anyone please tell me how to get my S3T to stand straight with load off the rear shock so I can adjust the drive belt??? Short of a jerry rigged deal from my celing in my garage in order to get the load off of it I am rather lost as to how to "jack" it up. Someone please??? Email me if you know how. Also I need to know where I can get a Buell accessories catalog, aftermarket and factory stuff. I just got my bike a month ago and am a convert from Jap cycles. It is a "new" 01 S3T that sat on the showroom floor for 2 years. Email is as follows rds_67_@msn.com | ||
| Davefl |
Wboo You have Mail. | ||
| Buellmeister57 |
Anyone know for sure if there is a current recall/fix on the front isolator? I think mine is starting to tear. (99 Cyclone) Buelling in West Virginia | ||
| Henrik |
Wboo; get a pair of cheap jack stands and put one under each rider footpeg: Start with the bike on the side stand. Put one jack stand under the right rider peg - not quite high enough to touch the peg. Put the second jack stand under the left footpeg - as high as it will go for the peg. Now lever the bike onto the right jack stand while you lift the left jack up to the same hight as the right. Be careful where you put the jacks - they need to solidly cradle the peg mounts (unless you have solid pegs). I use a folded up rag on top of the jacks to protect the peg mounts, paint and such. To get the bike down you just reverse the process. Henrik | ||
| Hans |
Hi Wboo, Shackle and tackle gear with multiple roll wheels, as used in yachting and found in a 5 $$ el cheapo box, at a gas station, did the trick for me. Used rope around the frame after taking off the saddle from my M2. Good luck. | ||
| Wboo |
Thanks guys, I will let you know how it works. I am concerned about hurting the rear brake lever which is attached to the right peg. go/no go? also I looked at the air filter today and noticed that the filter (paper) is mostly gone where the air comes into it. I also noticed some residual oil on it and in the tube going from the air filter. It seems lately that it is a little flat on the top end and stumbles a little at cruise speed 3000 - 3500 rpm. any ideas? I sure appreciate all your help so far. | ||
| Ken01mp |
I have a 2001 M2L. I didnt want the Low, but it was all the local dealers had. i put a standard M2 seat on it to gain the half inch back, but i want to have the height of a standard. is the other height loss in the shock itself, or the mount, or what? anyone have an M2 that wishes it was a low and would be interested in a trade of any parts necessary ('cept the seat)? thanks, Ken | ||
| Wboo |
worked fine, no problems. didnt even need to adjust the belt. as for the other things, well, im still at a loss. | ||
| Bomber |
All part of this winter's work includes ease of maintenance upgardes to my 2000 M2 . . . .I'm going to pop a zerk fitting into the steering stem (as I've done to many bikes over the years) so that I can grease those bearings without having to drop the front end . . . .. is there a similar fix available for the swingarm bushings? the design of that part of the bike is differenct enough from all the other bikes I've owned to make me slow down a bit . . .. I'd like to be able to grease those bearings without removing the swingarm, if possible . . .. thanks for the backup | ||
| Lornce |
Bomber, If the swingarm bearings are sealed units they won't likely benefit from grease being forced into the swingarm pivot tube. Theoretically, the shock force damping afforded by the isolators should contribute to/ensure long service life of those bearings. Your efforts wouldn't hurt, but they may be better spent elsewhere. On another note, can you or anyone else recommend a decent performance shock to replace the Showa recall unit on my S1.... that doesn't cost the moon? thanks, Lornce | ||
| S2pengy |
The old steel swingarm is tapered roller bearings... | ||
| Hootowl |
The aluminum arc swingarm on the 99-02 tubers uses tapered bearings too. They are actually the same part number as the steering head bearings. | ||
| Lornce |
Todd and Hootowl, Thanks for setting me straight. I seem to remember an allen head bolt when you look through the isolator opening.... but no lock nut. How is pre-load set/maintained without a lock ring/nut? Now you've got me curious enough to go take a closer look at those things.... Am glad to learn this. A tapered roller bearing in that application if properly set and (as Bomber originally suggested) sufficiently lubed... should last 4-ever. Now, where can I get my hands on one of those original WP shocks for my morphing S1 race bike? L | ||
| Rick_a |
Lornce, from what I hear Works makes a decent and some what affordable alternative. The preload on the swingarm bearings are set by big aluminum bolts that the isolators screw into...they are held in place by the pinch screws on the swingarm mount block. | ||
| Lornce |
Hey Ricardo. How've you been, man? I'll be diggin into that swing arm before too long. Gotta mod it to get some more ride height. Trail be damned. Within reason.... Works shock, eh? I'll look into it. Thanks. Tryin to get a KTM ice racer together for the winter.... NOT gonna spend another winter without some riding fun. Come on up and try it man, you'd have a blast! (no pun intended  Stay in touch, L | ||
| Road_thing |
Bomber, that sounds like a worthy project. Take pictures! r-t | ||
| Hootowl |
Lornce, The preload is set by that allen screw, and then (as Rick pointed out) the pinchbolts on the swingarm block hold them in place. | ||
| Bomber |
well, sounds like I got a project! (just what I needed, another one!) (grin) thanks to all for the input . . . . at this rate, I'll have the Ma Deuece finally completed to my liking just about the time the daughter graduates from college (3.5 years), and I'll be able to consider buyin a nother scoot! | ||
| Rick_a |
Things are alright, man. Too much schoolin' and work and not enough play, though. How's things in your neck o'the woods? Winter sucks...the climate here has changed but several degrees and I'm already getting sick. I'd rather have a scorching summer year round. My joints get stiff in the cold. Bomber...There's no such thing as completion with these machines...once you're done you find something else... I am getting a supermotard next...that'll be good fun. |
