| Author | Message | ||
     Buelltoys |
I think my clutch cable needs to be adjusted but not sure. Can anyone give me more of a direction to look? On my way to work this morning I was not able to get the motor to shift up. My clutch lever seems a little loose so I think it might be that it needs to be adjusted. Down shifting is ok but it seems normal because I have downshifted before without the clutch. As I move the clutch lever around a bit I can finally free it up to shift but it is very hard. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks, Brian | ||
| Red_chili |
The shop manual details this; it is a VERY worthwhile investment (errant torque values for oil drain plugs aside). | ||
| Jlnance |
I don't think it's your cable adjustment, unless it is way out. It's probably the clutch itself that needs adjusting, which is also very easy to do. I'm assuming you don't have a shop manual, so I'll walk you through it. It helps to have someone hold the bike vertical while you do this, or some of the primary fluid will run out. If you combine this with changing the primary fluid, that isn't an issue. 1 - Remove the 3 screws which hold the clutch inspection cover to the primary cover (Torx T-27 size. DO NOT use a T-25 driver.) Remove the cover. 2 - In the center of the clutch pack there is a screw with a spring loaded hex holder. The holder is a little smaller than a quarter. Remove the spring/holder. 3 - Turn the screw in the center of the clutch pack counter clockwise until it LIGHTLY bottoms. Then turn it clockwise 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. 4 - Put the spring/holder back on the clutch pack and then put the inspection cover back on. I always put a new gasket on there, but that is generally not required. Now your clutch is adjusted. The cable is next: 1 - Slide back the boot on the cable and loosen the jamnut on turnbuckle. 2 - Grab the clutch cable and pull it back, away from the lever. Note the amount of gap between the end of the cable jacket and the lever. Adjust the turnbuckle until this gap is about 1/8 of an inch. 3 - Tighten the jamnut. | ||
| Dr_greg |
When doing all this check the state of your clutch cable; mine started feeling "strange" a little while before it broke. | ||
| Buelltoys |
Found the problem at lunch time after I got some light to work with. The cable is being held on at the ball end on the lever by one strand of the cable. This is keeping the lever from pulling on the cable tight enough to disengage. Thanks for all the help. Also saw that my clutch cable isolator wire has broke and need a replacement. Guess I will be waiting for a package to arrive Stone Mountain to get it fixed. Until then I will use a lug crimped to the lever end. Thanks for the advice Brian | ||
| Jlnance |
Dr_g, you have ESP | ||
| Xbimmer |
To add to Jlnance's and Dr_greg's sage advice... Do the clutch adjust behind the primary case cover when the cable is off or slackened. "Counter clockwise loosened until lightly bottomed" is exactly that. Use your finger and thumb, you can then feel the beginning of resistance. If you use a screwdriver until it stops moving then you're waaaay too far. Don't overtighten the three cover screws. Snug is fine. Since you're replacing the cable wire form insist on the NEW part which ain't wire. Sorry don't have a pic or the part number right now but it won't break like three of my wireforms have. I'll get the new one if and when my self-improved fourth one goes. Make sure you've really cleaned any crap out of your clutch lever pivot and the recess where the cable ferrule up top fits. It takes a few minutes more but remove the lever to do a good job. Then get one of these and install it:   This little $7 part makes me happy. No more crap in the lever tearing away at the cable and contaminating the grease. A $12000+ bike should have one stock. | ||
| Ratbuell |
The new clutch wireform is the same part number as the old, but ends in AAA, not AA. Sorry, that's all I've got at this hour... | ||
| Xbimmer |
Thanks Ratbuell. N0012.1AAA then, it's pretty well buried in my Parts Book. Here's the pic, tho blurry:  | ||
| Buelltoys |
Thanks guys. Got the parts ordered just waiting to get them. Until then need to find a way to fix the cable I have. Tried one fix last night but did not work. Pulled clutch lever about 10 times and broke again. But did find out if you get the RPM's up to about 4500 - 5000 the up shift goes easy without the clutch. Good thing I don't have to many stops between work and the house. 42 miles with 9 lights. Got lucky and only hit one red light. Got it to N for the stop though. X thanks for the guard advice. Looks like the Honda dealership will get a visit this week. Thanks again. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Clutchless shifting isn't too difficult. Not too nice on the drivetrain, though - try not to drive that way too long. And pray that it doesn't rain. I still cringe thinking about that 2 hour trip I had to make on my FLHP with a broken cable. Upshifts, not so bad. Downshifts....now, that was a pucker-per-gear in the wet. | ||
| Red_chili |
Got lucky and only hit one red light. Got it to N for the stop though. Eeek. The stop, no problem. The start up again when the light turns green... CRUNCH | ||
| Buelltoys |
Got the bike in the garage until the cable is fixed. Just hate not ridin her. She has been good to me. around 43K on her and she has not left me stranded anywhere yet. Besides I hate driving 84 miles a day in my truck that gets at best 15mpg and the uly treats me to 49-50 every fill-up | ||
| Marks3tbillet |
To install the new style wireform, does the clutch cable have to be removed? Or can you loosen the adjustment enough to get it around the cable? Thanks for any help, Mark | ||
| Buelltoys |
I am not sure if you have to remove the clutch cable. I looks like you may be able to slip the clutch cable in but not sure. When I replaced my new wireform I had to replace the clutch cable at the same time. The cable is easy to remove from the lever and routing is nothing. An extra 20min at the most to remove. |
