| Author | Message | ||
     Vagelis46 |
I have this problem : I have installed the Micron system and the race ECM to my 04 XB12R and I have performed TPS reset. The bike until it warms up is UNDRIVABLE. It has big hesitation to increase the revs. If you insist , while it hesitates, and give it gas then it almost blacks out and does not want to increase revs, like almost stalling. Also idle revs are low at the begining and only when it warms up keeps normal idle. When it warms up (10 min of riding)is OK but is making less power than stock up to 3500rpm and then pulls very strongly up to the limiter (better than stock). Is the above normal with the Micron exhaust and the Race ECM ? Today I plugged the race ECM to Digital technician at the dealer and until the bike was fully warmed up the air/fuel ratio on the screen was LEAN. Then when the bike had warmed up (360F) the message was alternating lean-rich-lean-rich. Also the idle revs were low when cold and starting to rise slowly as it was warming up. Then when fully warmed up idle was Ok. Does the Race ECM have auto choke to give rich air/fuel ratio when the engine is cold? Is there a chance I got a faulty race ECM? Can I do something with the Vehicle Diagnostic system that I have, or the dealer's Digital Technician, to fix it? Is it a good idea to put the snorkel and the stock air-filter back to get more rich air/fuel ratio at start up? I am starting to worry that I have gone the wrong way, as far as performance, after installing the Micron + race ECM. The bike was running fine with the KN+removed snorkel+open airbox when it had stock ECM+exhaust. As soon I installed the race ECM I had problems. | ||
| Naustin |
It is possible that the ecm is bad, if you got it off ebay or something. If you bought it new, its unlikely. Are you sure you did the TPS reset right? That combination should be good. | ||
| Al_lighton |
It is typical for the bike to want a slightly faster idle in the colder months than the warmer months. But undrivable until warmed up? That is NOT typical, micron or not. The rich/lean/rich/lean indicator is how the bike is fueling while running in closed loop mode. The ECM tries to maximize the .45V crossings by making it alternately slightly rich to slightly lean, but on AVERAGE, it is running at 14.7:1 then. The bike doesn't enter closed loop until it is warmed up. While warming up, it runs open loop with an extra fuel scalar applied to the map. Until the O2 sensor comes up to temperature, that LEAN reading it is giving at startup is meaningless. The O2 sensor isn't a reliable indicator of mixture until it is fully up to temperature, and that can take up to a couple minutes at just idle depending on external ambient temperatures. Faulty race ECMs aren't unheard of, but they aren't particularly common, especially when working right when warmed up but not when cold. They generally are broken or not, though it is possible that one or more of the sensor input lines in the ECM is faulty. The Micron and Race ECM will have a lean spot in the middle where the micron makes lots more power than the Buell Race muffler. It isn't blow up the bike lean, but it isn't optimum either. Up top, where max heat is developed, it will fuel OK. Get an AFV reading with VDSTS. Knowing that is useful diagnostic data. Do a TPS reset again, if that is off, idle problems will abound. The TPS being off just slightly exhibits itself more around idle and low throttle positions than it does at higher throttle positions. Be sure you have backed that idle adjust screw COMPLETELY off, so that when you gently force the throttle shut, it wedges slightly in the bore and sticks before opening. Put it back in that position prior to executing the TPS reset. The airbox mod will result in the AFV going up a little. Once it does, it essentially zeros out that mod, which is fairly linear overall if you're using the same velocity stack. Put the stock ECM back in for a test. I wouldn't leave it there, it will generally run leaner than with the race ECM, especially up top. But as a test, to see if the problem may be ECM related, it is useful info to see if the problem goes away. If it does, double check that TPS reset before concluding that the ECM is bad. Al | ||
| Vagelis46 |
Thanks for the info. I have now covered 500 miles with the race ECM + Micron, both around town and twisty roads, and these are my points : 1. After the bike has been FULLY warmed up it runs fine. I can feel NO flat spots on the road, whether giving 100% or 50% or 20% gas from any rpm over 2.500 rpm. It definately runs better than stock and the sound is REALLY GOOD. Also the bike runs cooler and the fan hardly switches on, which I think is a good thing. 2. Now that I have seen the bike's behaviour when it is cold, I give it very little gas until it is fully warmed up. I can tell if it has been warmed up by the way it runs at idle at traffic lights, or how it pulls on the road. This way I can drive the bike, then wait until it gets warm and start using it properly. This way I have no problems. If I give more gas (still normal levels) when cold to semi-warm, then problems start. Big hesitation and gaps in performance from 2.500 up to 4.500 rpm. If I switch the bike off, after it is making these gaps semi warmed-up, and switch on after e.g. 20 min, then the bike runs really bad with big gaps and it is very difficult to keep idle. It needs fully warming up to make it run right again. It is like unless you respect it when cold, it gives you REALLY BAD performance. 3. Over the next weekend I will spend some time on the VDST and double check the wire connections to the race ECM. Also try the stock ECM as Al suggested. 4. Al, your comments/experience is valuable. Expect new info/data from me after the weekend. | ||
| Vagelis46 |
And the problem was : FAULTY VOLTAGE REGULATOR. I cannot believe how this device affects the performance of the entire bike. And since problems came up as soon as I placed the race ECM, I assumed this was the cause. I should have been more cautious, but this is my first time with a bike that the voltage regulator fails so early. When there was NOT enough voltage the bike was running VERY BADLY. At start up the regulator was not working and the bike had hesitation and performance gaps. Then eventually the regulator started giving the right voltage and the bike was running fine. I realized the problem when during a long ride,the bike started giving bad performance and eventually the battery was dead. The regulator was replaced under warranty and everything is fine now. I also set the idle higher at 1100rpm when hot, because with the lights on the voltage is low at lower idle rpm. Is it normal for the regulator to last 8000 miles ? Or was I unlucky once again? | ||
| Jsimpkins |
I found this out as well with a bad battery. |
