| Author | Message | ||
     Leeaw |
I am at 519 miles and wondering if I should bother doing an oil and tranny change, or just wait for the 1000 miles. I was planning on changing the fluids myself and letting the dealer do the rest, and maybe the race kit at the same time. I only want the dealer to do the race kit so they assume responsibility in the event something go awry. | ||
| Spiderman |
I would. It's cheap insurance  | ||
| Reepicheep |
I have on every new vehicle I ever bought. | ||
| Daves |
I changed the oil on mine at 120 miles,450 miles,1000 miles you get the idea. course the first 120 were on the track. Ride to the edge! Dave Iowa HD/Buell (Buell Cycle Center) | ||
| Leeaw |
Guess I will. Spidey, I read about your mishap. Sorry to hear about it, but glad you are around to talk about it. If I remember correctly, you had recently done some engine mods? How did your steed fair through the accident. | ||
| Aesquire |
Heck yes! Get the break in micro-chips (metal not electronic) out of there & put in fresh Synthetic! | ||
| Sarodude |
I usually tell people to do whatever makes 'em feel good. Peace of mind is worth whatever money you decided to spend on it by default. Any measurable benefits that may or may not be had are likely too hard to find in such widely varying environments / riding styles / etc. Just as an example, lotsa folks used to swap out the gear lube in our 2 stroke Honda race motors every day and keep expensive synth lube in there. If you asked those guys, they'd tell you the only reason their gearboxes held up was because of that ritual. I ran 30w plain jane motor oil which got changed out after a few race weekends. A guy looking at my gear clusters (after 3 seasons of hard running) commented how everything looked spankingly wonderful. He didn't know about my "neglegent" oil changes. Do what's gonna make you feel good. -Saro | ||
| Freyke |
I'd do what the maintenace sched says.... IMHO, if you change it early your not really gaining anything but paying for an extra filter.... I did mine at the 1000 mark (then switched to synthetic)... No problems..... | ||
| Leeaw |
Why the switch to shorter break in term compared to what most suggested with the tubers? The service manager even said that he does not see why I shouldn't switch to synthetic. I will probably wait until spring to do synthetic. No sense it putting it in for the winter. | ||
| Court |
I'm going to tell you a secret......given the quality of todays machine AND lubricants, it makes VERY LITTLE difference what you do. I know...I know....there are an army of anal retentive scientists ready to take me to task. But I confess that I've lost little sleep when my 120,000 mile F-250 that has had Mobil 1 since Day 1, goes past the 3,000 mark. Absent dusty conditions, above average exsposure to containination or extrememly harsh conditions (none apply in my case these dasy) I'd bet you go go 10K twinxt changes and notice little difference. Would I reccomend it? Nope, but I'll bet the most forensically empowered would be hard pressed to spot the difference. Face it, times are pretty good. Court | ||
| Leeaw |
Court, But what else besides washing and waxing can you do to a new bike when you do not have a chance to ride? | ||
| Pammy |
I have not yet met up with the V-Twin that could, safely manage(without eventual, negative consequence) the 10k mile mark between oil changes, no matter what the oil of choice may be or the riding style/conditions endured. Change it and be smart, not cheap. | ||
| Brucelee |
Yes; I did mine at 300 miles and got a fair amount of metal shavings out of trans and sump. Used Mobil One gear oil in the trans. And reg HD oil in sump At 1000 switched to mobil one 15-50 in sump and again the Mobil gear oil in trans. Trans shifts like butter, no more metal shavings in either waste oil. Now, every 2000, mobil one again. Plan on keeping this bike till I drop. |
